Thermostats and night heating

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reptililian

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I was wondering what people find are the best thermostats to use, and can they recommend where to get them from. Should I get a day/night one, or use two seperate thermostats for each cage? Do I need to give special consideration to what thermostat I would need for my pending baby chondro? What other issues do I need to consider regarding thermostats, bearing in mind that I want to breed my pythons. We will be needing to install them in about 30 enclosures.

Also, what do people find to be the best method of providing warmth at night?

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts and advice on this matter.

Heaps of thanks, Lily
 
For a chondro I would definitely be using a prob thermostat. Wall thermostats and the humidity for chondros are probably not the best combination.

You may wish to give Brian at the Herp Shop a call about your enclosure set up. He has decades of experience and that is what you want to be calling on to protect your investment.

http://www.herpshop.com.au
Phone: 03 9363 6841
 
Controversial issue this one :wink: some like them others dont, I use probe thermostats on all mine but you may find that with the bigger cages they do nothing but get in the way. Some are also dependent upon what heat source you are using.
 
For a Viridis I'd be using a top end stat like the habistats etc but wouldn't put it into service until it had been thouroughly test run first.
 
africancichlidau said:
For a Viridis I'd be using a top end stat like the habistats etc but wouldn't put it into service until it had been thouroughly test run first.

Do habistats have the electricals inside the enclosure or outside?

Chondro's need humidity so this is more of an issue that with most other Australian python species.

When you are preparing the enclosure I would be qizzing the breeder (or Brian at the Herp Shop)

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Dad gave Brian a call yesterday. He was a HUGE help.
 
Habistats are a probe thermostat and all the electronics are outside the cage, I only use them or Microclimate as they are the best in my opinion and worth the money for the peace of mind. As far as nightime heating goes I would use a heatmat, heat tape etc.
 
The only animals that I have that get 24hr heat are my 3 pythons, but none of my dragons get night time heating and we're in Melb.
Where are you located Lily?
Bex ;)
 
Apart from a basking spot I would also supply 2 PVC perches for GTP. 1 heated via a low watt heat cord thru the pipe & the other 1 not heated. This will give a better gradient as the python can decide which perch to hang off.

For day & night heating I would go with a microclimate with built in night eye. This way you can adjust an accurate decrease in temperature once the lights go out. You would have to use a non light emitting heat source for this method though, and use a light globe or fluro on a 24hr timer adjusted to the seasonal photo-period to activate the night eye and consequently night time temperature drop.

Another option is the Habistat with a dimmer or night eye attachment.
 
Hi Bex

My snakes are currently in Newcastle, but are about to move out to our farm in the Hunter Valley. Much the same climate as Newcastle, perhaps a little more extreme in Summer and Winter. ( + more cows and kangaroos, less cafes and restaurants. I don't know if I'm winning or losing!)
 
Just a thought on the humity angle for condros would a timed water spray do the trick maybe a 5 second spray every 2-4hours either into the enclosure or to a spot on the substrait where the heat is being applyed???
 
SNKMST said:
Just a thought on the humity angle for condros would a timed water spray do the trick maybe a 5 second spray every 2-4hours either into the enclosure or to a spot on the substrait where the heat is being applyed???


You could use a bucket of heated water & a pond pump to supply water to the cage. Using 1/4 inch tubing & a size 3 misting nozzle will give a fine mist to suit the GTP. I would use a digital 24hr timer and have it set for 1 minute periods 2-3 times a day.

All you would need is:
Small pond pump
5L bucket
Aquarium heater
Digital 24hr timer
1/4 inch tubing
Size #3 misting nozzle
 
Or you could just keep the bottom of the cage damp and on heat to produce humidity which is what most seem to do. I can't see any need for automatic sprays etc.
 
boa,
Although some members may keep GTP on damp substrate, I personally would be fearful of breeding bacteria.

I would rather use sphagnum moss as substrate, employ a large water bowl and give daily mistings.
 
But whatever substrate you use if you mist constantly it will potentially breed bacteria. I have kept Amazon Tree Boas in a similar setup and they thrived.
 
But misting is mild & temporary in comparison to a soaked substrate.
Misting also enables dry spells between increased humidity levels which lowers the risk of bacteria compared to a wet substrate.
GTP encounter dew early mornings & late evenings in their local enviornment which misting replicates if done so at those times. You are also misting into the air and allowing droplets to be scattered around the entire enclosure, which is far from soaking a single area.

If using damp substrate the area is constantly wet, which becomes stagnant and a great place to breed bacteria, unless you intend to change the substrate or allow it to dry and slightly re-dampen regularly which is alot more work than simply misting anyway.

Not arguing at all as I also know a keeper who uses the damp substrate method for hatchlings. But personally I am in favour of misting for those reasons given.
 
Quite right, not arguing at all. I guess it's whatever works for the individual. I can certainly see the logic in what you are saying.
 
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