Hibernation

[Parko]

My snakes are all northern species, Stimsons, Brown tree snakes and soon a Bredli. I am wondering does that mean I should hibernate them for a short time only? And just how cool should I let the enclosures get considering winter temps are extremely low in my area. Do pythons like Bredli's actually hibernate at all in the wild?
Really appreciate any info you can give. Matt.

 

[spilota_1]

They only need cooling not full hybernating.

 

[sxereturn]

Bredli are from out west, and it frequently get's well under zero degrees celcius out there at night.

 

[kevyn]

I keep a few North American species (California Kingsnakes and Northern Pacific Rattlesnakes) that hibernate in the wild, but I know of few people over here anyway that find it necessary to reproduce this activity in captivity. I never have and have seen no negative effects as a result. Might be different with Aussie species, but I don't know anyone over here that hibernates any of those species.

 

[Simon_Archibald]

*^*

 

[kevyn]

I was wondering about that. Hibernation and burmation are very different things. I couldn't figure out how it was possible for snakes to need to hibernate in Australia. Good point.

 

[Parko]

Brumation? I can't even find the word in my dictionary. Is this the correct term for when reptiles become inactive in winter?

 

[kevyn]

Yep, true hibernation is something entirely different. Curling up in a burrow, lowering metabolic rates, and ineffect sleeping for a few months. Burmation envolves some activity.

 

[Parko]

Live and learn, thanks fella's. So I basically should keep the heating on all year with thermostat set to same temp. I suppose the more extreme thermal gradient will be enough to allow the snakes to brumate. What if we are talking about juveniles that are in smaller tubs, same deal?

 

[spilota_1]

Hybernation means total dormacy in an inactive state of torpur. Only Diamonds IMO need a full hybernation with no heat source but other python species just need a cooling over winter with a temp drop into the lower levels.

 

[spilota_1]

Juveniles dont need cooling untill atleast there 2nd year.
Keeping high temps year round wont give the adults a winter cooling period. Temps should be altered year round according to season.

 

[Parko]

So say if I have my thermostat at about 32deg in summer, maybe around late march lower it to 26deg then by late april drop it to about 22deg? Would that be ok for 1.5 yr olds?

 

[Simon_Archibald]

*^*

 

[africancichlidau]

Bredli are from out west, and it frequently get's well under zero degrees celcius out there at night

Or out East if you live in Perth

 

[ajler]

Some interesting points Simon ,I have only 1 snake so far and have had her for about 8 months but in that time I have noticed that over winter she would want to hide out of the day light and not want to feed all that often. She seemed to be less interested in whats going on around her.But now the weather has changed she,s a different girl alltogether,cant get enough tucker do,snt hide as much if at all, seems more aware of whats going on she,s up and about a lot earler than she used to be and the temps have been the same (30) so maybe they are smarter than we recon.

 

[lutzd]

Interesting topic. When I bought my first snake off Bigguy, he commented that you can't fool snakes if they can see natural daylight.

I haven't cooled my snakes to date, but was planning to this year. Bob: do you cool yours? Can you give us details?

 

[Artie]

Hybernation means total dormacy in an inactive state of torpur. Only Diamonds IMO need a full hybernation with no heat source .

In the wild, during warmer days in winter, Diamonds are frequently seen basking on rock ledges.
So maybe brumation or cooling is more appropriate.

 

[spilota_1]

This is true in their natural state,and you do say on warmer days (when their metabolism raises with the higher temp) but from records of breedings in captivity complete hybernation has yielded majority of sucess. Most Diamond breeders throw adults into styrofoam boxes or plastic tubs in the coldest part of their homes such as a cement floored garage throughout winter. Only thing the adults are given is a water bowl to aid in keeping humidity up and avoid dehydration. Another thing to consider is activity. Total inactivity would be more suited as they will not use up fat reserves then and lose condition in the 3 month period they are not being fed. If only cooling then the Diamonds are still active and are using reserves and are bound to lose condition. So if you totally slow their metabolism they will not lose the weight they would if being active. Also while in hybernation there immune system along with bacteria shuts down completely and they are less likely to suffer when being warmed again.

 

[Artie]

Most Diamond breeders throw adults into styrofoam boxes or plastic tubs in the coldest part of their homes such as a cement floored garage throughout winter.

Not wanting to go into an argument here, but I find that hard to believe, happening with Australian breeders.
I have read that about breeders in the USA.
But having said that, I can only go by some the breeders I spoke to, and in particular the ones I bought my Diamonds from.
Both very experienced and have been breeding for a very long time, only Diamonds, (one about 20 years, one 15 years), both use different methods with great success, in that I mean, one breeds all his snakes indoors, the other outdoors in an Aviary.
Neither feed their snakes for about 3 to 4 month.
Both agree to have some heat in indoors enclosure in the middle of the day for a short period, except one month nothing.
On of the suggestion, the one I go by is,
Last feed in April, after digestion 2-3 weeks, 3 to 4 hours heat in middle of day May June, low 30?s, heat off in July, August 3 to 4 hours low 30?s, September 8 to 9 hours.
Fresh water and normal daylight.
Cheers Artie

 

[spilota_1]

Regarding Diamonds nothing is absolutely garunteed as evidence as of yet. Nobody can verify exactly what causes DPS so we all go by theories and speculation when keeping these animals. This has lead to Diamonds being kept in cooler temperatures and given UV lighting etc. Many people have lost their Diamonds when reintroducing higher temps after winter cooling. This leads me to believe that while being cooled they were still active enough that their immune system had only slowed while bacteria is still running at a higher rate. Again nothing is proven on this but many keepers agree that this is a possible scenario. I know a few well known Diamond breeders that hybernate their snakes completely for the above mentioned reasons. (I also know a few that dont, but everyone will do things differently) The benefits of full hybernation as indicated are no activity = no fat reserves being used up so no weight loss. Condition of the animals is a high priority with this species so it is best we do what we can to maintain the best condition on our breeders during this time. Immune & bacteria shut down where both abide in unison as compared to a slower immune system trying to compete with stronger bacteria. Now I am not a doctor so this is far from gospel, but talking to other keepers this is evident by the amount of losses when warming up after cooling indicating this to be the reason. As I said everyone will do things differently, personally I would prefer no heat for the reasons I have outlined but to each their own.