Attention all monitor keepers.. help wanted!

[book]

An example of a v.trisis set up in a tub with a wood and wire frame top is http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/general-herps/monitor-mansion-finnished-79951
I have also seen similar done with aluminium frames.

You could build a wood cage with a full glass front and have the access through a lid on top or side. An example of this is also on the above thread.

I will be using a six foot fish tank for mine so I just have to make an escape proof lid to contain the light / heat.

If you want the doors at the front look at my profile and check out the Ackie album. My set up is a plastic tub on its side with a pine front frame.
The bottom panel 14cm deep for the sand. This set up is too small for adults but you could keep adult Pygmy Mulga Monitors in it. The doors are sliding on plastic door track and does get sand flicked into it but was far easier for me to build than framing hinged doors.

Exo Terra make glass cages with door that swing open but nothing big enough for adult ackies. But from this is the general idea of space for substrate and trackless doors.

Just make sure there are no gaps for them to squeeze through. Baby monitors can force their way between the gap between sliding doors and can climb very well. They are also pretty strong and may be able to break into some light cages or lift light weight lids so make sure everything is well secured. Any basking shelves or rock slabs also need to be fixed so they can't squeeze between or under them and get crushed if they shift.

 

[notechistiger]

A 60w spot light for heating a relatively large enclosure and creating a heat spot of 70C? Dude, I have a 60w spot light in a small (60x45x45) enclosure with a large rock in the hot spot (makes it hotter), and the most I've ever gotten, when I tested it without a thermostat, was 47C.

gonff, you don't need to be so pushy about the magazine. Since it seems you have it (going by the photo), why don't you type out what it says, or what is pertinent, and post that?

 

[book]

I did have a 60watt spot which only got to around 40C but I don't remember the type or how tight the beam was.
You can get even a 40watt spot to 70C if it is the right kind. I use a 40watt Philips Spotone R63 Reflector 15cm from the basking platform and it does get to 70C and lights part of the enclosure. ( No thermostat - just a timer )
It does not heat the rest of the cage. I also have the UV compact which generate a small amount of heat and adds more light to the basking platform.
I am still thinking about adding a small strip fluro to add more light to the opposite end.
The other heat sources are a 20watt head cord which is running all the time under one side to heat the sand and a heat lamp ( infrared or dark light ) on a thermostat which runs day and night to keep a day time background temp around 28C.

 

[notechistiger]

Ah, so it's just my brand then. I only use Exo Terra, and haven't felt the need to experiment with others. Meh, it matters not.

 

[varanophile]

Hi Matt,

I think ackies would be an excellent choice for a first monitor. Gillens are great but I think ackies are a little more forgiving for someone who is learning - esp when it comes to respiratory infections. The smaller the monitor the quicker it can succumb to ailments and the less time you have to recognise that things are wrong and act.

As for UVB lighting. I have bred many species of monitors without UVB and have never encountered any problems. It is also much cheaper to go without. However, whilst I do not believe UV lights to provide health benefits, I have found that they are important to bring out the colours of your monitor - esp yellows. If you look at the photos below they are of ackies that have been ket under bright full spectrum UV lighting. In my experience if they were kept under cheap non UV lights the general colour would fade, esp the brilliant yellow. A bit like a sun tan. Keepers have known this for a long time with beardies - those kept outside in sunlight have a much higher intensity of colour, attributed to the higher intensity of UV from sunlight.

If you are going to spend the money and get a brightly coloured ackie (esp the "sandfire" form), then it may be worth spending the little bit extra on UV lights.

Just my opinion anyway...

Female breeder

Male breeder

 

[matty91]

i really like the sound of both ackies and black tailed, but i am leaning towards the black tailed, what are their bad points?

 

[varanophile]

Tristis (blackheaded) monitors are a great 'middle' sized monitor. They are as easy as ackies to look after and feed.

The down points of them are that in general they are quite flighty and often never really calm down. They are lightening fast, can jump a long way and are masters at escape. I have heard of several escapes after the monitor ran up the keepers arm and out of the cage. They are more bitey than most small to medium sized monitors and can inflict a nasty wound. I only ever handle mine (when I have to) with thick gloves.

 

[matty91]

so does anyone have any photos of their tristis enclosure they wouldnt mind loading up?

 

[matty91]

come on guys and girls, you must have some pictures

 

[koenbelg]

beware

I just wanted to give you a heads up on monitors. Mine went from sweet to dinosaur carnivor type. lol. sorry she lookes like a dinosaur. Monitors are very cool to watch, but most of them get really aggresive when they get older no matter how much you handle them. some are nicer than others, nile and savannah are the meanest i think. They are very smart so concerning your cage, make sure its very secure as mine has escaped before. Here is a pic of my savannah monitor named dyna and tell me she doesn't look like she should be in the next jurastic parks.lol