DIY 4 draw enclosure

[MrsAeren]

Hi everyone,

I have been researching and researching and checking out out all the threads about making your own enclosures, so I thought I would start one. I love making stuff when I can so this is a great learning experience for me. So I had a set of draws sitting around and I thought it would be simple to convert. So here are my pictures




It measures 76cm long, 46cm high and 40cm deep. Not sure what snake Im going to get yet, thinking a spotty or stimsons.

I seen on youtube that a guy had a draw as hide but I thought it wouldnt work so well with a smaller enclosure. So I took all the runners out, expect two so I can use them as support for a heat cord. Now I do have a question, Should I have the heat on the bottom or top of the enlcosure? Next I put some ply on the what was the base and filled the holes. Another question, what is suggested for the best ventilation? Drill holes in the back board? Or get those vent things from bunnings? Or those drain catcher thingys?

Also would like to say sorry if I did the photos wrong. My husband said to use imgur but they were huge in the thread so I choose this way. This is my first forum so if I did it wrong please tell me how Im supposed to.

 

[Shotta]

this is just my opinion...,for the heatcord you could do either bottom or top, if you placed heating at the top it would probably encourage the snake to come out and bask, also you can use either vents it really comes down to preference or you could just drill some holes in the backboard

 

[MrsAeren]

Hi Shotta,

Thanks for your opinion, so it doesnt really make a difference to the snake? Also forgot to ask what are those things called that you slid the glass in? Do you get them from bunnings?

 

[reptishack101]

pvc glass tracks, bunnings does has them in brown and white i think there 6mm openings for 5mm glass some glass shops stock it as well if you need longer lengths

 

[Virides]

Heat rises so it would be more efficient to have the heat cord on the bottom. Shotta's suggestion would help encourage the animal out of the hide but not too sure how effective the radiated heat would be - it's a different story with a globe in this instance. Perhaps have a try and see what works best for you.

Go for 5mm glass, it doesn't need to be toughened, however if it is going to be at foot level it is highly recommended that the glass is toughened. Whether you get toughened or not, use 3mm black adhesive foam tape from Clark Rubber (it is about 10mm wide and you can buy it by the metre for about $2/m). Stick it to the sides of the enclosure where the glass panels contact, this will help ensure the panels don't hit the sides too hard which can potentially break them. It also means you get a dull thud when you close the panels.

To aid in opening your glass panels, I suggest you use our finger grips. They allow you to easily open any panel of glass and reduce, if not abolish, the occurrence of smudges/finger prints. This means you won't need to clean the outside of the glass as often, if at all, and you can enjoy your animal more. You can see our full range at - Shop | Virides

Below are some examples:

 

[Shane73]

Hi MrsA, I did the same thing with a 4 draw bedside. I used top heat with an IR, and had a hinged door. Heres a pic of mine (if it works)
View attachment 300692

 

[MrsAeren]

Hi Virides,

My enclosure wont be at foot level, ill be making a stand for it. And I was thinking of using perspex so I can not worry about the breaking factor.

Hi Shane,

Your picture didnt work. Would really love to see what you did if you can make it work.

 

[Shane73]

I don't know whats going on there sorry, when I click on the attachment it opens up or right click, open in new...
Other wise I just put the in one of my albums.

 

[justin91]

I don't know whats going on there sorry, when I click on the attachment it opens up or right click, open in new...
Other wise I just put the in one of my albums.

I really really like your draw enclosure. Maybe because its different and I haven't seen one before, but its awesome and I think I might build one for my next snake

 

[Virides]

Hi Virides,

My enclosure wont be at foot level, ill be making a stand for it. And I was thinking of using perspex so I can not worry about the breaking factor.

While normally with glass you have to de-edge it, Perspex (Acrylic) doesn't necessarily require it however the edge can still cut with enough pressure and sliding of your hand on the edge. So just give all the edges a sand to round of the edges a bit. Also ensure that the corners have a small 2mm chamfer or round. This will help ensure the panel doesn't get stuck in the track as you slide - think like a set of skis.

Also our finger grips can be used on perspex and will provide the same qualities as glass.

 

[MrsAeren]

Hi Virides,

I have no idea where to get perspex from so ill do some searching.

Really wish I could see your picture shane.

 

[Shane73]

go to my profile page, it is in an album.

 

[Virides]

Hi Virides,

I have no idea where to get perspex from so ill do some searching.

Try to get 4 or 5mm Clear Acrylic. Perspex is just a brand name, Acrylic is the name of the material. Call your local Sign Shop and they can put you in the right direction. Bunnings doesn't stock this material as far as I know.

Also take into account that Acrylic can flex. If the snake manages to get its nose into the gap between the panels, it can push it's way through. There would be no chance of this with glass though.

The other problem is, potentially wherever you get your acrylic from, they won't allow you to get partial sheets - you may have to purchase a full sheet. These are 2400 x 1200mm.

Where do you live, as in what Suburb/Town?

 

[Shane73]

View attachment 300733

 

[Virides]

View attachment 300733

For some reason this isn't working. I get around the problem by uploading images to photobucket.com and then direct image linking it in here. That way the image appears on the post rather than a button.

 

[Shane73]

http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b568/buds01/2013-06-12114659_zpsf22074ab-1.jpghttp://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b568/buds01/2013-06-12114659_zpsf22074ab-1.jpg

Edit:argh that sux, thank virides I will have to work on it. Sorry for ruining your thread MrsA.

 

[Lawra]

Hi Virides,

I have no idea where to get perspex from so ill do some searching.

Really wish I could see your picture shane.

Masters sells sheets of Perspex if Bunnings doesn't. They have 900 x 600 or 1200 x 900 from memory for about $90 per sheet.

 

[MrsAeren]

Thanks Virides,

Didnt think about it flexing. I think this is going to be alot of trial and error. I think Im going to get a hatchie so will have planty of time to work it out before it gets big enough to go in there.

Thanks Shane,

Finally seen your photos. And its all good. You didnt take over the thread, dont really care if you did as long as I was learning.

Hi Lawra,

I dont have masters, which sucks because I work for Woolworths.

What sort of locks would you use on acrylic and glass? Would I have to get them specially fitted for the glass?

 

[Rlpreston]

Bunnings do sell acrylic sheets, we got ours from them. To prevent the flexing issue we glued (with windscreen sealer I believe) metal edging at the joins and used the track on the sides to hold it straight (see pics for better understanding, I'm not feeling articulate today)

ETA: excuse the grubby kid prints on the doors, they get everywhere!

 

[MrsAeren]

Hi Rlpreston,

That looks very good, I assume it works well for you? I would rather use acrylic, like you I have grotty fingered kids and dont want to use glass just incase.