Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum

Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.

tooninoz

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 26, 2008
Messages
823
Reaction score
0
Lots of info out there on how to make these, so I thought Id throw in my 2c :)

For my first attempt I tried the thinners on polystyrene method, but I was waaay too heavy handed, and ended up with this monstrosity. I has one coat of tile grout and wont be finished..
rock004-1.jpg


Back to the drawing board... tried again with thinners, but using a fine brush. I coated it with 3 coats of tile grout, sealed it with an expensive grout sealer and slapped on a very basic paint job using non-toxic, cheap artists acrylic. getting closer to what I want.....but still no dice.

rock002-1.jpg


The issues are;
- For starters, it is 1200mm long x 400mm high, so fitting it in an enclosure in one piece would be a problem (bearing in mind I dont want to build it in the enclosure like most other methods do).
- Tile grout is still a little spongy. You can easily make indents with your thumb. Probably not a big problem with snakes, but lizard claws would rip it up Id think?

I decided to use cement instead. Ive completed a few of these now and the cement makes all the difference! Not to mention it is way cheaper than grout. Grout is about $10 for 5kg, cement $5.50 for 20kg.

So, here's the step-by-step;

I got a huge slab of polystyrene from a mate who is a brickie. Its 2.4m x 1.2m x 180mm thick. If you go to a supplier, you'll find that polystyrene is bloody expensive. My suggestion would be to visit building sites when they are pouring house slabs. You'll generally find excess waffle pods and you should be able to get a few of someone. Failing that, try out the back of electrical stores (Harvey Norman, Chandlers etc) as you may get some large thick pieces you can use. Just depends on your requirements.

Ok, I got a cheap handsaw and a rasp from Bunnings (total of about $30?)

rock009.jpg


I wouldnt use any power tools at all during the process; the dust is bad and a fast spinning blade melts the poly. I wear a dust mask when cutting/rasping as the dust is ultra-dangerous to your lungs. Cant stress that enough.

I cut two small pieces. In the pic below, the angled piece is approx 500mm long x 300mm high. The squarish bit is 400mm x 300mm.

rock008.jpg


***Its really important to ensure that your edges on the bottom, and any side that will be fixed to the enclosure are SQUARE. Apart from the fact that when you seal the joins with silicone it will look a more professional, any gaps may mean that smaller snakes like Childrens, Stimmis or Spotteds may be able to get in under/behind!***
For these rocks, Im working on the angled rock to be fixed to the left hand corner of the enclosure, whereas the squarish one will not touch on the side. It will be standalone. The eventual idea is that I will paint a sky background on the back of the enclosure, then fit the rocks.

Next, I begin hacking and gouging at the foam to give it a look something like rock. Dont have to be too fancy. I try not to make ultra-deep grooves because;
a. Nearly impossible to force the mortar in
b. It'll be a bitch to clean down the track :D
Here's what it looks like after hitting it with the rasp;

rock011.jpg


Thats my rough shape. I get rid of as much of the loose foam beads with my hand, but there is still lots to deal with. You need a 'stable' surface to ensure the mortar sticks and doesnt flake off later. To do that, I bought a cool little tool from Bunnings. It's a cheap butane torch (abt $15 + $6 for a refill bottle of butane). It works off a modified cigarette lighter and burns at 1300degrees.

rock006.jpg



rock010.jpg


If you get one and it doesnt seem to work, crank the gas up to full. Dont do what....ah...someone did and return it to Bunnings for another one....:rolleyes::oops:

Anyway, I run the flame fairly quickly over the crevices and the rough areas, and then gently over the areas that are too flat (to make it look more realistic). The photos below are before and after. The difference isnt as obvious in the pics as it is in real life;

rock014.jpg




rock015.jpg



rock016.jpg


It has removed all the loose particles, and given it a better shape.

So now I am ready to put my first coat of mortar. I mix up a ratio 2:1 sand/cement mix. I am using Ivory cement (white as opposed to the usual grey), but it doesnt matter. Im using the fine white sand too - you can use brickies loam, and I dont think it really matters. Most building sites will have a pile of sand somewhere, and I doubt anyone will mind you grabbing a cpl of shovels.
For your first coat, mix in a little water slowly. You really want this first coat to be fairly liquid so it soaks into the foam a little and seals it. To apply it, I just bought a pack of three cheapy brushes. I use a 2" brush to apply it. Make sure all crevices etc get a good coating. **Keep using the brush to stir up the mix in the bucket regularly so you arent just applying water**
The first coat will look a bit patchy, but this wont be the case after your second coat.
For the second and third coats I will be adding PVA glue to the mix to give it extra strength. You could add Brickies Own etc, but they are expensive and basically glorified PVA glue! You can pick up non-toxic waterbased glue at Crazy Clarks etc for $5 for a litre?

No pics at this stage, but I will post up the next part this afternoon and hopefully that will complete it!

cheers, toon
 
Looks awesome dude, and a big thanks for taking the time and effort to share it with the rest of us!
 
Cheers for the comments. Warren, there's only the one that I'll be binning at this stage, and you are welcome to it. It's pretty rough tho'.

Alright, Pt.2

I slopped the first coat of mortar on as you can see in the pic below. It looks patchy as it is a watery mix, but wont be the case after subsequent coats.

rock017.jpg


Once it has COMPLETELY dried, you'll be right for the second coat. The surface of the 'rock' will be dusty and flaky now, so be careful when handling. Mix up another brew, but this time add a generous amount of PVA glue. This will help strengthen it as well as give it a bit of flexibility. Otherwise it may be a bit brittle and crack over time.

For this coat, get another brush (probably a 1" brush) and an ice-cream container or similar with some water in it.
If you make your mix a little too wet (a wet as the first one), just add a wee bit more cement til its thicker.

Like the first coat, slop it on and work it reasonably gently - you dont want to rip the first layer off. Dont worry about bulk or brush-strokes at this stage as we'll sort that later. You just need to ensure that you get a few millimetres of mud on the entire surface.
I found that its best to leave it for about 5-10mins (Im in Qld and the weather is coolish, so if youre in Melb or Tassie, leave it for maybe 20mins?). Just wait til the slurry dries off a bit, til it loses its 'shine'

Take your other brush and get it pretty wet, but not sopping. The idea is to remove some of the excess, define the grooves etc and to remove the obvious brushstrokes. Smooth it over a bit.
- If your brush is too dry, you'll take off too much of the mud.
- If your brush is too wet, you'll wash the cement out and just leave sand behind.
It's just trial and error! But you'll know. You'll know. ;)

Once you are done, try to stick it somewhere in the sun or with a breeze. You'll know when it is good for the next coat - the colour of the surface will be uniform. If some of the crevices or surface areas are a little darker, dont be tempted to put on another coat! You will weaken that area. Be patient grasshopper.
Technically, you could start and complete these rocks in 1 day, but cutting corners will stuff it for sure. Trust me....I found that out.
Im working with a cpl of different rocks that are finished now - these two have had 3 coats and are ready to go;

rock020.jpg


After 3 coats, they look a lot smoother. You should be able to tap your fingernail against them and get a sound....like.... tapping on a motorcycle helmet?? If the sound is 'soft' or it indents easily, you are better off with another coat. Nothing to say you cant put extra coats of mortar on. 4-5 coats would probably be optimal. Just make sure that you water the next coats down a little so you dont lose all your shape.

Painting

As I said earlier, I just use the cheap paints from the 2 dollar shops. The pigments and binders in them are rubbish, and will fade over the years. But...we aint painting a masterpiece to be hung in The Louvre. Besides, I'll be damned if Im going to use my $12 Windsor and Newton acrylics on a rock. :)
Look for the earthy colours - burnt/raw sienna, burnt/raw umber, red and yellow ochres, white, and black . Maybe some earthy dull greens? It depends on what you want to make. A desert coloured rock to suit your Bredli/BHP/Woma? Or a darker rock with moss for a jungle? A sandstone rock for a Coastal Carpet? This is what I used;

rock022.jpg


For this one, I am making a desert-y looking rock, so using red ochre/burnt sienna. Watered it down a bit and slop it on. You might see some brushstroke again, so perhaps dab at the surface with a clean rag to even it out.

rock024.jpg




rock025.jpg


Next, I just added a bit of Umber to the mix, and applied it to the crevices, using a dry brush to smooth it into the background colour. I also added some dabs of Yellow Ochre to the 'highlights' You cant really see it in the pics, with the harsh sunlight, but it really brings it out.


rock026.jpg


Where you go from there is up to you. Thin cracks, shading, and fine detail is up to you. You could get lichen etc from hobby stores (the stuff they use on model railroads etc), or...use oil washes. I'll keep working on the walls and post pics as I do them.

I made a hide that I am pretty happy with, and I'll post pics once its completed tomorrow.

Hope this helps. If you have any questions, feel free to get in touch and Ill help where I can.

Oh, do snakes actually like these tho? My Albino Coastal Taipan seems to!

rock029.jpg



;) cheers, toon
 
All your backgrounds look great, even the ones that were 'experiments'. The first one reminds me of the interior of a cave or around a marine environment. Perhaps you could find different uses for all your attempts.

Thanks for the interesting info, it will inspire many to give it a go themselves.
 
looking good, i am soon going to start a fake rock background. was thinking of using some MDF as a backing an adding a basking ledge. the structure would be wood and was going to use pollystyrene for shape. i really appreciate the cement tip, grout is exy.
 
Wow, that is awesome!
Im gonna give that a whack.
My rock wall i used chicken wire and paper mache. I think it looks alright (nowhere near as good as that) and I put many layers on so its rock solid. And i used paint and dirt to make it look natural. I quite literally dipped my paintbrush in a pile of dirt and put it on. Should i only be using acrylic paint, or would house paint be ok if i dont house my snake with it for a few weeks?

well done
 
Nice job. Fake background, fake snake. What is next? LOL

Fake snake? Alby is offended... haha

Jessica, house paint (water-based) should be ok too. Like you said just give it time to burn off the odours. Put up some pics when you are done, as Im keen to see what everyone else does and get some tips. :)
 
yeah i like the first one too, looks like limestone around the beaches of perth.
 
Hi! I have a question...please. I'm starting with green tree frogs and I really like your background...how can I make it waterproof so I can submerse it in the water?
Thanks
 
Hi! I have a question...please. I'm starting with green tree frogs and I really like your background...how can I make it waterproof so I can submerse it in the water?
Thanks

Sorry rehctub, Ive been away since Friday. As someone suggested, perhaps a pond sealer may be the best way to do it. I'd do plenty of research to ensure no chemicals leach into the water.
If you have any success, post it up as I need to make a turtle dock for a friend.
Oh, and for anyone making the rocks - don't follow my suggestion on using an oil wash after painting it.
It will seep through the mortar and create hollows behind (as it eats the foam). :oops:
One of those stupid things you do when you don't think....
 
hi, i did a bit of a ring around and had the most success from a hobbie shop, the guy said they probably would have something that wouldn't eat into the polystyrine but its just a matter of reading the labels on the products, so still a bit more reasearch i think.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top