first womas
- Thread starter Robbo
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orsm
Active Member
Why is a woma considered to be a class 2 reptile in NSW? What makes this reptile more difficult to keep than its cousin - the blackhead python?
Womas have stumpy tails, its just how they are. any big breeder will tell you, it also makes them harder to sex at a young age i believe. Watch the pails for scales TV episode one, he talks about it i think.
Cheers Alex
Cheers Alex
fishead
Well-Known Member
Little beauties there Robbo!! I thought they might be a couple of Simon's tanami. Can't wait to get my "topazezez". Your girl there looks to have a lot of the attributes of Simon's Topaz Tanami. Very nice I reckon. Congrats mate, Steve.
Robbo
Well-Known Member
those topaz ones look great fishead . i wouldnt mind a pair of them to .
foxysnake
Well-Known Member
I wasn't attacking anyone! Just giving my opinion.
I'm afraid I have to agree, Foxysnake you did seem to be saying that they snake was either wild caught or had been kept by an inexperienced keeper which is absurd, there appears to be nothing at all wrong with the snake.
PilbaraPythons
Very Well-Known Member
ether
There is absolutely nothing hard about sexing hatchling womas. They really are easy to do and with out a probe.
Cheers Dave
There is absolutely nothing hard about sexing hatchling womas. They really are easy to do and with out a probe.
Cheers Dave
JandC_Reptiles
Very Well-Known Member
PilbaraPythons said:
Hi Dave,
Could you explain the ease of sexing Woma's without probes please.
In no way am I doubting you, just very interested in your proceedure.
foxysnake
Well-Known Member
I can't say I was implying the snakes tb be wild caught at all. I highly doubt someone with such a big name in the herp world would risk everything they've worked for by grabbing snakes from the wild and selling them! I was trying to elaborate on the badshed idea, but I guess it didn't quite come across right. However I find it amusing, how quick people are to attack me when I wasn't the only person who thought the tail tip was missing, I just stuffed up trying to type out an explanation to what I first posted.
fishead
Well-Known Member
Definitely aint no expert but have a good look at the differing tail lengths in the photos. That should be a good hint to the sexing thing.
BROWNS
Very Well-Known Member
Come of foxy you first say it looks like missing tasil tip from the pic which you can't make an accurate judgment on but then go on to say they have missing tail tips because of certain reasons.I know what you're getting at but what you say points directly at and against the breeder/seller and you've basically assumed that there is a tail tip missing which there isn't and are perfectly normal looking woma tails cb or wc a healthy woma without a damaged tail looks just the same wether wc or captive.I'd like to know what differences you see in captive womas compared to these or blackheads?
Losing tail tips isn't just from being wc or not looked after properly either...when young and a snake sheds but leaves the very last bit on the tail which can be so easily misesed can and wll cause the tail to die off where the old unshed skin drys and tightens like a rubberband round a sheeps tail.
Losing tail tips isn't just from being wc or not looked after properly either...when young and a snake sheds but leaves the very last bit on the tail which can be so easily misesed can and wll cause the tail to die off where the old unshed skin drys and tightens like a rubberband round a sheeps tail.
PilbaraPythons
Very Well-Known Member
JandC-reptiles
Determining the sexes of snakes without probe.
Besides probing you can sex your snakes by visual examination of the tail area. This is a method that I prefer and fully recommend.
You need to hold your carpet snake horizontally in front of you and examine the area around the fifth subcaudal scale. If it happens to be a female then the tail should taper away from the anal area fairly evenly and often quite sharply at first ( see diagram 2 ). If you have a male you should notice a slight bulge at about the fifth subcaudal indicating the presence of hemipenes ( see diagram 3 ).
This method of determining sexes does take a bit of getting used to but with a bit of practice you will find that you gain an eye for it and in fact after a while it will become really obvious. I can now sometimes sex aspidites on the ground in the wild from about a metre away. It is easier to use this method with adults and it is often difficult to do on something like a hatchling children?s etc. This method can be tricky with small snakes and snakes that have bold patterns around that area of examination as they often confuse your judgment of thickness. I find it is also a good idea to view the tail from several angles and directly in front of good lighting. I have had many of my friend?s claims that this method is unreliable and should be backed up by probing. I put this to the ultimate test one day and sexed 19 hatchling carpets by visual identification and after my friend double checked with a probe was found to be 100% correct. I have never in the last five years got it wrong and have visually determined the sexes of hundreds of snakes. On occasions I have been unsure with hatchling Antaresia?s as they are so small and with these I suggest the use of a probe. As way to test your ability to gain this skill I suggest you visually sex your snake first and then check your result with a probe. I bet that in no time you won?t need to.
Cheers Dave
Determining the sexes of snakes without probe.
Besides probing you can sex your snakes by visual examination of the tail area. This is a method that I prefer and fully recommend.
You need to hold your carpet snake horizontally in front of you and examine the area around the fifth subcaudal scale. If it happens to be a female then the tail should taper away from the anal area fairly evenly and often quite sharply at first ( see diagram 2 ). If you have a male you should notice a slight bulge at about the fifth subcaudal indicating the presence of hemipenes ( see diagram 3 ).
This method of determining sexes does take a bit of getting used to but with a bit of practice you will find that you gain an eye for it and in fact after a while it will become really obvious. I can now sometimes sex aspidites on the ground in the wild from about a metre away. It is easier to use this method with adults and it is often difficult to do on something like a hatchling children?s etc. This method can be tricky with small snakes and snakes that have bold patterns around that area of examination as they often confuse your judgment of thickness. I find it is also a good idea to view the tail from several angles and directly in front of good lighting. I have had many of my friend?s claims that this method is unreliable and should be backed up by probing. I put this to the ultimate test one day and sexed 19 hatchling carpets by visual identification and after my friend double checked with a probe was found to be 100% correct. I have never in the last five years got it wrong and have visually determined the sexes of hundreds of snakes. On occasions I have been unsure with hatchling Antaresia?s as they are so small and with these I suggest the use of a probe. As way to test your ability to gain this skill I suggest you visually sex your snake first and then check your result with a probe. I bet that in no time you won?t need to.
Cheers Dave
JandC_Reptiles
Very Well-Known Member
Excellent Dave thanks.
I have heard of this being done with adults, but assumed you would need both sexes at hand to determin the differences between them. Will have to experiment with this method & check with a probe to see how accurate I get.
Also I noticed the inclusion of diagrams that wasn't posted.
Could you please post these pics to identify the differences?
Or possibly guide me to a website if you took the info from there?
I have heard of this being done with adults, but assumed you would need both sexes at hand to determin the differences between them. Will have to experiment with this method & check with a probe to see how accurate I get.
Also I noticed the inclusion of diagrams that wasn't posted.
Could you please post these pics to identify the differences?
Or possibly guide me to a website if you took the info from there?
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