Help... Im running out of ideas =( I'm so confused.

[LilMissSnakey]

So I've been reading through various posts and I've taken on a lot of advice from fellow forumers but I can't seem to find where I'm going wrong, or if I'm going wrong...

I have a Bredli (have had for roughly 6 months) and hes snappy to the point of latching on everytime i try to handle him. I've tried multiple handling sessions daily and not so often handling sessions. He's being fed 1 pinkie rat a week (I attempted 2 but he refused it), His temps are 28 in the cold end and 33 in the hot, has a hide up each end but doesnt spend much time in either. He likes to chill out on his branches that I've set up for him.

I've attempted wearing gloves, not wearing gloves, using a hook, and leaving the click clack open so he can come out in his own time and space. I wash my hands before handling him, I've even tried 4 different smelling soaps. I'm just so confused as to what else I can do to try calm him down or get him used to handling. I get it that 'snakes bite and get over it' but I generally dont want to have a large python who keeps tagging me and leaving me bruised.

I do also have a woma who is roughly the same age but I've only had her for 6 weeks and shes been brilliant. I dont even have to pick her up as soon as she smells my hand shes straight onto it and out the tank. With her I have even tested the waters and handled a rat before her, but still, she didn't even take a second glance, or smell or even look interested in having a taste.

I'm not looking into critisism, so please no responses such as MAN UP, or get over it. I'm generally looking from advice from people who can help me, not ones who chose to mock. It really does irk me when people chose to out-source, and seek knowledge from those with more experience, only to be shut down.

thanks muchly =D

 

[antaresia_boy]

There doesn't sound like there's much more to be done other than make sure he is in as much of a stress-free environment as possible, with short calm handling sessions so that he doesn't get overwhelmed. You do just get the occasional snappy snake, like my water python. He may just end up being one that you look at rather than handle if you already have a woma that you can handle.

 

[FusionMorelia]

sounds like hes just a cranky bugger just like humans some are just a holes lol

 

[Nighthawk]

I'd have to agree with the above myself. We've got a lovely jungle ironically named 'Smiley' who's the same. Look, but don't touch unless necessary. At least there's always your woma...? How old is your Bredli though? There's still the possibility it may just calm down with time and handling if it's still young.

 

[Torah]

could he go upto fuzzies ???or have pinkies every 5 days ?? my 6mth old darwins on fuzzies and looking at going up again , maybe hes abit hungry ?? Or you could just have a nasty one that sux !

 

[FusionMorelia]

my het is 7 or 8 months and we feed 2 weiner mice every week big ones

at that age i run with 15 to 20% food to weight till a year old

 

[Elapidae1]

Gee I feel like the last part of the opening post is aimed at me.

Maybe try having the enclosure at say chest level so it feels less threatened when your taking it out, if it isn't allready. Or set up your enclosure so you can easily hook the snake out without it wrapping around branches then just let it on the floor and gently play around with it. I personally think in the odd situation like yours you need to change how you behave towards the snake rather than trying to get the snake to change it's behaviour towards you.

And maybe try some weiner mice like NATO suggests the bit of hair is beneficial to their diet

 

[Snake_Whisperer]

Sound like a feeding response, IE: it's hungry. I'd advise a step up from Nato's advice and go with 30% - 35% of body weight, once a week. For example, if your animal weighs in at 60g, feed it a single, large 20g fuzzy rat. At 6 months old, even at the rate your animal has been fed, pinkies are now too small. You will likely cringe and panic when you first see your snake eat something that big but don't fret, it's perfectly safe. Pythons have evolved to eat like that.

 

[-Peter]

Broaden your temperature gradient, you will find that it is probably even less than 5 degrees difference. Try and get the cooler end cooler.

 

[kat2005dodi]

I have had a childreni for over 12 years and only recently can I handle her without copping a bite or attempted bite, gotta love em

 

[Beloved_Reptiles]

My Bredli wouldn't even touch pinkies, started straight on fuzzies so I would definitely up the food size. Maybe with a fuller belly she'll look at you more kindly for a hold!

 

[mysnakesau]

All snakes are going to differ in temperament to a certain degree. You can have a docile woma but that doesn't mean you're doing anything wrong just because your bredli is snappy. He just has a different attitude. If he don't want to be handled, training sessions aren't going to make him improve. Bredli are renown for being snappy babies, but many ppl I know say they tend to quieten down as they get older. This isn't a guarantee, though. I would be handling him as little as possible while he seem so annoyed at it. You don't want to stress him to a point of refusing food, hiding all the time or even developing respiratory problems which are caused when their immune systems are compromised.

When you handle him don't 'hold' him as such. Let him glide through your hands and avoid sudden touches especially to his tail which will startle them and make them move quicker. Keep your movements slow. Quick sudden movement, or suddenly touching him will startle him and may provoke a defensive strike. And when returning him to his tank let him slither out of your hands, don't close your hands on him, just let him go and move slow when closing his lid. He doesn't know that you don't want to hurt him. To him, your hand is a huge predator and he is biting because he is scared.

Snakes bite for two reasons - defensive and feeding. Defensive bites are usually a quick strike, bite and run while the feed bite is where they will latch on. Are you sure he isn't striking defensively and getting his teeth stuck in your skin, or is he really holding on? My jungle girl always gets her teeth stuck, it makes her look like she wants to hold on but she isn't.

 

[Fantazmic]

I think it is food

they are a big snake and at 6 moonths he is coming inot a big growth spurt......

Id up the food you want a big bump so that after he has fed he has a big sleep and grows...or even goes into shed...

thats what I do with my jungles and I have four nice ones.....

 

[LizardLady]

Hey LilMissSnakey!

I'm inclined to agree with the others here - it sounds to me more like a "food" strike... And, as Kathy said, they only ever strike for one of two reasons - because they're frightened (defensive), or because they're hungry... A Bredli at 6 months of age, "should" (imo) be on something a little larger than a pinky rat each week... I'd be taking the advice of the others and up the food size - try a velvet rat, then a small weanling... Remember, the bulge should dissipate within three days - any less and the feed is too small... More, the feed is too big...

I have an adult pair of Bredli - one is a pussycat (I'm sure she has an identity crisis, and thinks she's an MD!) and the other is "cage sensitive", although great when he's out! Bottom line is, they're ALL different - even the same breed, housed exactly the same as another!

Anyway, just try upping the food size first, see how you go, and let us know the progress!

Good luck, and all the best,
Carolyn

 

[mysnakesau]

It must be time for me to up the size of mine then. I have a pair of two year olds still on large adult mice. In the 4yrs I've kept snakes I am still trying to teach my head the fact that they can eat some 3 times bigger than that little head of theirs. I can't help thinking they will choke on something too big...lol...I haven't even considered changing to rats yet. My jungles are probably big enough for an upsize too, but I'd rather keep them happy with 2 mice atm than try to change them while they have only just started feeding again.

 

[LilMissSnakey]

Thanks for all the advice... I'm going to try the larger feeds for a few weeks and see how that goes. Generally i don't 'hold' the snakes I like to let them do their thing and just be there to assist in the way a tree branch would.

I'm starting to think maybe I'm reading the signs wrong too =( I'm one of those who would more succeed in killing with kindness... and I know I'm probably stressing over nothing... =/ I think I got the best of the barrell with my Woma. Oddly enough I was actually sent the wrong one (I ordered a WA Woma), but shes been more than fantastic =D.

What are the best signs of a 'relaxed' python? I know theyre not like your average dog who waves their tail frantically and bounces up n down, and I never expected that from a python lol. Most probably think its a silly question, but its to help me put my mind at rest and know that I'm doing the right thing =D I do also stress that I, myself, am stressing him out with mixed signals and I dont want him to be put in the way of any emotional or traumatic experiences at such a young age!

Gee I feel like the last part of the opening post is aimed at me.

I do apologise if anyone took the last part of my original post to offense, it was not actually directed at anyone. I just think to myself that I sound stupid enough asking the same question as I'm sure many other have asked, but its a peace of mind thing, and i think any critisism towards my question would still have me second guessing! Call it a neurotic incapability to set my own mind at ease =D

 

[malisa]

As previously suggested, I also recommend you allow the heat variant to be broader . In the desert, the temps in the day are anywhere from 30-45 degrees during the day and drop down to anywhere from 20 to 0 degrees at night depending on the season.

The hot end could be 33-36 degrees - even slightly warmer if using a heat cord. Depending on their shedding cycle, they often desire cooler spots the closer they get to shedding so I wouldn’t bother putting heat in the cool end. I think if you have hides in both areas, plus the branches he will be happier. when small my bredlies appreciated cramped little hides and rocks- they always used the more natural things i introduced. My little ones loved curling around little seed fronds from the giant palms outside.I find that out of the 5 types / breeds of snakes I have, my bredli’s utilize the cool end the most when coming up to shed.


I believe that snakes are intelligent creatures, when you are developing a relationship, I think if they tag you, don’t put them straight down, they will soon discover cause and effect – put them down on your terms, once you feel they have relaxed a little. Try not to hold them too close to your face – too scary. I am guessing he is only around 8months old, I think he may have anywhere up to another year of defensive striking ahead of him (you!).

If you have had him for a few months, 15 minutes a day skin to skin contact (except around feed/shed time) should be plenty. Try not to hesitate, but don’t rush at him either. Take him into the winter sun too- but beware of birds!!


I have one snake that used to thoroughly search over your hand for the most tender spot and then latch on and not let go – even after eating. He did this repeatedly for almost two years, but we persevered and now he is most excellent and wonderful!!

Re food size.... this could probably go up too. If you are not confident he will manage, offer him 2 or 3 of the usual size that you offer and see what happens. When he consistently takes multiples, it should be fine to safely upgrade. If you don’t want to go up in size and you don’t want to feed multiples (expense) you could try switching to the equivalent size in mice, they will be covered in hair and have more food in their bellies and greater bone density. Another option could be day old quail or occasionally feeding iddy biddy fresh fish ( I get them from the Asian food stores as a treat, they love them but do stinky poo’s later)

Hope this is of some help to you, hang in there....
Kind regards,
Mel

After all that I forgot to add, it seems to me that they are relaxed when they are hanging out in branches, or resting with their heads poking out of their hides.
One other thing- sometimes if the enclosure is too big, they can freak out...or too small -grumpy and depressed...
I had a yearling bredli in a 2foot glass enclosure with lots of branches and 4 hides as well as paper to hide under- he seemed really happy...

 

[joelly116]

some snakes just dnt tolerate being touched, remeber they prob dnt like to be touched they just tolerate it, they like to explore tho

 

[snakeluvver]

Yep up the size of the food and make a broader temperature range.
I understand why you wouldnt want a snappy bredli, not because you always want to hold it but because its inconvenient that whenever need to service the tank or whatever, that it'll bite you, especially when it gets to 6ft+

 

[Chris1]

i have a diamond who is a bit of a temperamental miss and she challenges me regularly,..

the moment she sees me hesitate, she starts gaining confidence and starts becoming agressive,,,,to the point where she guarded her feeding chair from me for a full 6 hours before i rolled up a towel for her to smash so i could put her away,...she was never really cage defensive before that,...but suddenly wouldnt hesitate to grab me when id check on her.

....the 6 hour standoff/cage defensiveness was a build up over a few feeds where i would respond to her hiss, or sudden movement when i went to move her back into her enclosure,..hesitate and drag the chair (also a challenge cos shes keep looking frlo bits to bite, lol,..)and poke at her from a distance to get her back in rather than just pick her up confidently.

after a couple of times of getting her to smash a towel, she gets better again,...till the next time i hesitate,....

its not only after feeding, she knows when im pooping myself and responds to that.

im not saying man up or anything,.(anyone who deliberabtely handles a rat before handling their snakes is man enough!! )
but if youve lost your confidence, i believe snakes can tell.