Help with bank enclosure

[reptinate]

Hey,

I'm in the middle of building a four bank enclosure. I'm putting the bottom and top lips on the front of each enclosure. Just wanted to know how you screw in the top lip of a bottom enclosure, and the bottom lip of the enclosure above? Screwing in one stops you from being able to screw in the other. (Hope that makes sense) I was looking for modesty blocks, which would allow me to, but can't find them in Australia. Is there any other way?

Also, is it best to have vents on the sides, or the back?

Thanks

 

[Virides]

Use G10x40mm interior wood screws. Pre-drill a pilot hole that is narrower than the thread of the screw (this will ensure you don't split the wood). Drill a hole to the depth required with a drill bit that is slightly larger than the head of the screw so that you can sink the screw beneath the surface.

Screw in the top lip first then screw in the lip below, screwing through the floor/ceiling and into the underside of the top lip. Putty fill the hole at the bottom, let it dry and sand flush.

As you stand in front of the enclosure you won't see any fixings from the top and if you see under, there will be tidy filled holes where the screws were.

 

[Virides]

Vents on the side or the back only really differ on the external look of the enclosure. If you have vents on the side, you will see them on the sides and since the rear of the enclosure is usually up against the wall, this is why vents are at the rear. As long as you leave a gap of about 10mm between the enclosure and the wall, vents at the rear are a good option for overall external appearance.

However, having the vents at the rear make them more noticable from the front rather than on the sides. So you have to ask yourself whether it is external or internal visual appearance that concerns you most.

 

[reptinate]

Thanks heaps, Virides! That helps a lot
I've already screwed the top lips on each enclosure. So when putting on the bottoms, would it be fine to either screw through the bottom lips and into the top ones below? Or screw through the top lips (already in place) and up into the bottom ones above? Different to the pic, but would it still work the same?

Appreciate the help.

 

[Virides]

Still would be the same. The only difference is that you will see where the screw holes were patched up. If you are putting a sliding glass track system over these edges, then it is not much of a concern visually.

To ensure super strength, run a line of PVA glue down the centre. Stronger the better, just means you can't disassemble it.

 

[reptinate]

Okay, thanks. Had to run down to bunnings and get a longer drill bit. While I've got ya here. What's the best glue to use for the plastic tracks? Liquid nails, or PVA? Going to use nails too.

 

[Virides]

PVA won't suffice, you need a glue that can etch surfaces as it cures - much like Liquid Nails. For an even better bond, scuff the underside of the track with rough sand paper. More surface area equals better adhesion.

 

[reptinate]

Oh, ok. I was thinking of using PVA. So liquid nails then? What other glue can do that too? Thanks

 

[J-A-X]

Virides is right (he's rarely wrong) definatly scuff the under side of the track. I've had track lift even with liquid nails with scuffing. They make them to an almost mirror finish. I always nail the bottom track and use two small screws either end of the top track then glue a small piece of timber over them (in the track) which also acts as a buffer when I open the glass to quickly

 

[Virides]

Alternatively for about $70 a roll (30m) you can get the same kind of double sided tape we use for our finger grips. It is ridiculously strong stuff. You wouldn't need to scuff the underside however the other surface (the wood) would need to be varnished about 3-4 times with fine sanding between to get the surface as smooth as possible. Liguid glues work best when you etch a surface where as tapes work best with smooth surfaces.

I try not to be wrong, I get alot of practice though - my day job is designing complicated signage

 

[reptinate]

I'll just try liquid nails and nails. Do you put the nails right in the middle part, or the parts where the glass sits?

Virides has been a huge help, so I'll take his advice. Had been trying to work out how to do it for weeks lol.

 

[apooh]

ive found liquid nails over time can go rock hard and crack away from the plastic track, silicon seems to work better and sticks like poo to a blanket.

 

[J-A-X]

If you look carefully the lower track already has pre drilled holes for brads (thin nails) in the centre riser, don't get thicker than the hole, it will distort the track.

Virides is tops, he's always happy to help with the tech stuff

 

[reptinate]

Ahh, okay. Thanks.

Hmm, silicon. Didn't think of that. Would any silicon be okay? Need to get some to seal the inside too.

 

[J-A-X]

Whatever you use don't put it on too thick. 1mm extra top and bottom could mean the difference of your glass fitting. Test fit the glass before securing your track!

 

[reptinate]

Will do. What type of silicon should I use to seal all the gaps on the inside? One used for aquariums?

 

[reptalica]

Just to throw a spanner in the works and a different spin on the normal way of fixing the glass track to the enclosure I actually used the tiniest of nails, like tacks with the slightest of heads on them and nailed them smack bang through the middle of the centre piece that runs through the middle.

Five years later still going strong.

Worked for me.....but each to their own.

 

[bohdi13]

View attachment 285870

Just to throw a spanner in the works and a different spin on the normal way of fixing the glass track to the enclosure I actually used the tiniest of nails, like tacks with the slightest of heads on them and nailed them smack bang through the middle of the centre piece that runs through the middle.

Five years later still going strong.

Worked for me.....but each to their own.

Whered you get them tracks from ??!

 

[J-A-X]

! That's how it's suppose to be done , didn't you read the entire thread

Whered you get them tracks from ??!

Most people get their tracks from bunnings

 

[apooh]

Whatever you use don't put it on too thick. 1mm extra top and bottom could mean the difference of your glass fitting. Test fit the glass before securing your track!

Thats why its smart to put your track in first then measure your glass.
Any bathroom mould resistant silicon will do.