Help with bank enclosure

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Thats why its smart to put your track in first then measure your glass.
Any bathroom mould resistant silicon will do.

All instructions say to measure the opening (without track) and then deduct 11mm. So if people do follow the instructions then order the glass and then secure the track with silicone then the loss of the 1 or 2 mm will mean the already ordered glass won't fit. !!!
 
Be sure to add some of our finger grips to the glass panels :D

Shop | Virides

Also when you get your glass panels, ask for not only the long edges to be beveled (for safety) but also have the corners beveled (the thickness of the glass). This will help ensure that the glass doesn't dig into the track.
 
I tried to find silicon that said it was suitable for aquariums, but couldn't see any. Do I have to look for one that says "non-toxic" or will any do?

Haha, Virides, I was having a look at your finger grips the other day. Yeah I will get them beveled. I've heard some people say to get tempered glass and not floating. Is it best to get tempered? And should the glass always be at least 5mm, or can I go 4mm for small pythons?

Thanks
 
Haha, Virides, I was having a look at your finger grips the other day. Yeah I will get them beveled. I've heard some people say to get tempered glass and not floating. Is it best to get tempered? And should the glass always be at least 5mm, or can I go 4mm for small pythons?

Thanks

Tempered glass is at its strongest on the face. You will find that table tops with glass have tempered glass for this reason. However, tempered glass is weak on it's edge. And thus if you hit it hard enough on the edge, it will explode into little chunks - this is also known as "safety glass" (chunks rather than shards). When you close the sliding glass panel, you may not hit it hard enough generally but there is always that risk, and of course it may never break. It really comes down to what you are comfortable with. Float glass will shatter into shards and is weaker on its face than its edge. A lot of people go with float as they don't have to pay for the tempering. Others like tempered because if they for some reason trip and hit the glass, they won't be slicing up their arm and/or the reptile.

If you go with tempered, I suggest getting from Clark Rubber (or similar place) black foam tape with an adhesive backing. I use 12x3mm. You adhere it to the edge where the glass panel will close and this will at least absorb any shock to the glass that may have otherwise shattered it.

Generally the thicker the material the stronger it is for its application but your trade-off is weight (weight difference of 5 and 4mm is negligible at this size). There is also a cost factor but once again, I would feel this is negligible.

Provided you got the foam tape, best combination would be, 5mm glass with bevelled edges and tempered (note that glass that is tempered can't normally be trimmed down if over size. You can get it trimmed down, but the molecular structure of the glass has been altered from its tempered state and will at some point in the future explode into pieces without even a tap - so, check your measurements).
 
As Hamalicious said, any silicone would work. Aquarium safe silicon is used because water is a perfect medium in which chemicals can diffuse into solution with the silicon - these would be particular hydrocarbons that in certain concentrations would either harm or kill fish. Fish have delicate membranes which can easily be affected by these contaminates. A reptile however would actually need to lick/consume the silicone to be affected in a similar manner. If you are particularly worried, then Aquarium Safe Silicon is good, but if it is not a high concern, any type of silicone would be fine, provided it is rated as an adhesive and not just a sealant.
 
A reptile however would actually need to lick/consume the silicone to be affected in a similar manner. If you are particularly worried, then Aquarium Safe Silicon is good, but if it is not a high concern, any type of silicone would be fine, provided it is rated as an adhesive and not just a sealant.

That is why we use aquarium silicone. Monitors and beardies like to dig in the corners of the enclosure and swim in their water sometimes, causing it to soak one end of the enclosure its better safe than sorry :)
I find it smells less and the smells goes away or airs out quicker, but that might just be me.

Sikaflex is good also, fairly cheap at bunnings. Depends on what you want to house in it I guess
 
Basically, the less chemicals you use during production, the more safe it is for your reptile. And if you can't avoid their use, you make sure the proper process has been done to achieve a state that is as safe as it can be :)

I'd guess that Aquarium Safe Silicone either has a different (safer) solvent to keep the silicone from curing or it doesn't have the solvent at all meaning a shorter shelf life.
 
I know this is a late reply, but I have finally started finishing the cages. I stopped as I had to wait for the tracks to be ordered in, but it's taking too long. Not being able to get the glass cut again makes me a little nervous, just in case I get the size wrong.
I finally went and got the silicone. I looked for the aquarium one, but realised it's only clear, so I picked up Selleys 3 in 1 white silicone. This one: Selleys 3 in 1 Adhesive, Sealant & Gap Filler - Silicone SealantsSelleys Australia It says it's lox toxic too. Is this one okay?

In regards to the lighting. I've been trying to find a light fitting already wired for the fluro, but can't find any, so looks like I'll have to get an electrician in (hoping it won't cost too much.) Just wanted to know if certain wires need to be used, and if he'll provide it? Also, are the normal house fluro bulbs from Bunnings okay to use?

Thanks
 
I use roof and gutter silicone for my reptile enclosures. 100% silicone so it is reptile safe, pretty much the same as aquarium silicone but not quite as strong.


Rick
 
With Bank enclosures, what is the best heating method?

Cord and lighting? or heat mat and lighting?

Plus can you run a 4 bank on one thermostat?
 
With Bank enclosures, what is the best heating method?

Cord and lighting? or heat mat and lighting?

Plus can you run a 4 bank on one thermostat?

I used heat mat and LED Lighting for mine :) I used the same thermostat for my top and bottom (3 bay) and the middle is on a different one, just because I had a slightly different setup to the top and bottom enclosures
 
I use roof and gutter silicone for my reptile enclosures. 100% silicone so it is reptile safe, pretty much the same as aquarium silicone but not quite as strong.


Rick

So the one I got it no good? Damn, I don't have the receipt. Surely the one I got would be safe? On the off chance that my reptiles licked it, it wouldn't harm them, would it?
 
I used heat mat and LED Lighting for mine :) I used the same thermostat for my top and bottom (3 bay) and the middle is on a different one, just because I had a slightly different setup to the top and bottom enclosures

I'm probably going to use heat panels. They're not cheap though. Where did you get the LED lighting? Would you be able to post a pic?

Anyone know about the fluros and wiring question in my other post?
 
I'm probably going to use heat panels. They're not cheap though. Where did you get the LED lighting? Would you be able to post a pic?

Anyone know about the fluros and wiring question in my other post?

You're right they're not cheap, but IMO they really are worth every dollar. If they're out of your budget, try making your own heat panel. Have a look around the DIY section, you'll find a few threads on making them heat cord.

LED lighting - eBays the best place, just search for SMD strip, you'll find ones that come with a power adapter, just takes a bit of searching around.
 
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