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In the last few years I've become abit of a gardener as well. It just kinda happened.

I'm growing 15 different varieties of Waratahs, various kangaroo paw, two different varieties of Sturt's Desert Pea and a few different types of grass trees. The wife is more interested in the different types of bulbs. Guess we can never go back to living in an appartment.
 
In the last few years I've become abit of a gardener as well. It just kinda happened.

I'm growing 15 different varieties of Waratahs, various kangaroo paw, two different varieties of Sturt's Desert Pea and a few different types of grass trees. The wife is more interested in the different types of bulbs. Guess we can never go back to living in an appartment.

I hope your not in suburbia bushfire as when i was growing my waratahs the flowers would dissapear within a day or two of opening :(
 
Bushfire, be careful, it is as addictive as herps. I can remember coming across a single Grevillea flower on a walking track in Brisbane Waters National Park. I was in my early twenties and it was so exquisitely different and beautiful that it started my interest in native plants – which a few years down the track changed from interest to obsession. I don’t do a lot now due to personal circumstances having changed but was heavily involved in propagating and a bit of growing for 25 plus years.

I would be interested to know what kangaroo paws and Sturt’s Desert Peas you grow and how you have set them up to grow them in Sydney’s climate.

Fourexes, fertilizing is about providing plants with the nutrients they need. If you are growing plants on a commercial scale, then they will be removing these nutrients in the products you are harvesting. So depending upon the soil in which they are growing, it makes good sense to replenish that what is needed at the time when it is most needed. For the everyday gardener, a balanced application of fertiliser at appropriate intervals is all that is required.

C,H,O are sometimes referred to as the non-mineral nutrients as they are obtained from water and carbon dioxide. The remainder of the required elements are obtained primarily from dissolved salts (minerals = metal ions combined with non-metal ions). There are two basic groups - Macronutrients which are required in the largest amounts; and Micronutrients which are required in only small amounts and often referred to as Trace Elements.

N, P & K are often the least readily available in soils and so are the major constituents of fertilisers. Also required in reasonable amounts are Ca, Mg and S, which tend to be more readily available. Micronutrients are B, Cu, Fe, Cl, Mn, Mo and Zn. (I always have to look them up because I can never remember them all off the top of my head).

Each nutrient has a part to play in a plant’s growth and /or development because each is used in manufacturing a range of specific chemicals that act in certain ways on he plant. The basic chemistry of all vascular plants has certain things in common. However, individual plants also have their own specific chemistry going on. Growers use knowledge of these specifics to achieve desired results by applying specific nutrients or more complex chemicals on particular species at appropriate times. Hence we have the science of horticulture.

As a rule of thumb, most soils will provide the micronutrients in sufficient amount, especially where there has been leaf litter. N, P & K tend to be the nutrients in which most soils are deficient. Acid soils will be likely be deficient in Ca whereas basic soils will not.

Perennial native plants do not respond well to excessive fertilising. The roots are adapted to establishing mycorrhizal associations that allow them access to low levels of nutrients that many exotic plants would struggle to survive on. Excessive solution strengths can kill the beneficial fungi involved. Application of slow release fertilisers, specifically formulated for Australian plants, are the easiest way of ensuring they get all the nutrients they need without over doing it.

Blue

Sorry about the length. i actually developed and taught a horticulture option to high school kids when I was working.
 
Thanks Blue I did mention I use powerfeed & seasol in recommended amounts, only recently the powerfeed and it seems well.... although I've read it can take a few years for an Xanthorhoea to die... :? The cycas has pulled back it's new growth I think a good nitrogen based nutrient would have been better than the potash but once tried forever learned. I'll stick to the powerfeed because it's almost organic and fairly basic. More importantly it's given me good results on almost all plants. I'll put my novice cap back on now :p

Thanks alot for your time mate it's much appreciated.
 
Fourexes,
I have several Cycas revoluta and I have found regular watering is the most critical factor with growth. I tend to be slack on the fertilising and it certainly has not held the most watered ones back. I should try and borrow a camera as one of them is in the process of producing a new rosette of leaves. I measured the two large ones and they are about 1m high and 1.5m wide. Yet those that have struggled for water are less than 30cm. I propagated about 20 seeds many years ago and had good success. I did the same with about 200 plus seeds from Macrozamia reidlei I had growing in the front yard. I ended up with nearly 200 seedlings and still have quite a few pants I need to get rid of.

I can assure you, I am still wearing my amateur’s cap. There is just so much more to learn and understand. Yes, trial and error is a good teacher – hopefully at not too great a cost!

Generally called asparagus fern i have ben fighting some for twenty years and dont seem to be winning
It can be an absolute pain to get rid of if it has taken over a large area. Try mowing it in winter, then fertilise and water it so you get good spring growth. Spray this with 360g/L Glysophate diluted to 10mL per 1L of water. The active growth encourages translocation of the herbicide to the underground tubers.


The reason it is so hard to get rid of is the underground tubers it produces. These are prolific and over a few years develop as a thick, almost impenetrable mat. These can be removed by digging but you have to go down the full depth of the spade and it is hard yakka. You then need to keep an eye out for any growth over the next two years. Always a good idea to cut seeding heads off before the seeds turn red. Otherwise the birds will spread it.

Blue
 
Hey Blue, I saw you mentioned the use of slow release fertilizers. I really hate using them because if you do not apply them early enough during a plants growing season it can kill the plant. Three years ago I wiped out half my Aloe collection because I fertilized my winter growers to late. I lost all of my tree Aloes(one of the reasons you don't see them in my collection, it was a HUGE loss to swallow.) there are only a few house plants I use it on now. I should have added earlier that the bag of fruit trick I've heard only works on broms, thanks for clearing that up blue. Can someone post some pictures of some Aussie native plants?
 
I am surprised that you would lose plants to a genuine slow release fertiliser. They release their nutrients in relation to being watered. So over winter, when you are not watering your succulents, there is no reason there should be nutrients released which could have an adverse affect on your plants. Even if you were watering them, the strength of the solutions in slow release products is minimal and would pass out through the drainage holes before creating a problem. I have use slow release and NPK Blue on a range of succulents and never had any problems. Water retention by the potting mix is the only thing that caused death in my collection. By adding a coarser grade of bark and or crushed granite or coarse sand, I have been able to obviate this problem. I have also found that some plants like to be kept dryer than others. Bottom line… I would suspect it might be a watering issue rather than fertiliser.

Blue
 
It has something to with watering but I have always waters my plants the same way, that year no different. I do water my plants year round just slow way down in the winter.
 
Fourexes,
I have several Cycas revoluta and I have found regular watering is the most critical factor with growth. I tend to be slack on the fertilising and it certainly has not held the most watered ones back. I should try and borrow a camera as one of them is in the process of producing a new rosette of leaves. I measured the two large ones and they are about 1m high and 1.5m wide. Yet those that have struggled for water are less than 30cm. I propagated about 20 seeds many years ago and had good success. I did the same with about 200 plus seeds from Macrozamia reidlei I had growing in the front yard. I ended up with nearly 200 seedlings and still have quite a few pants I need to get rid of.

I can assure you, I am still wearing my amateur’s cap. There is just so much more to learn and understand. Yes, trial and error is a good teacher – hopefully at not too great a cost!

Blue
Cheers Blue thats awesome. Does yours look a bit like this? Allbeit probably alot bigger, mines just a young pup:
PC120233.jpg
PC120231.jpg

And my Grass Tree: Looking like it's had a bit too much water lately. Looks alot more yellow in pics thank it really does though..
PC120234.jpg
PC120236.jpg


- - - Updated - - -

Few more randoms:

Starting with some Kangaroo Paw because it got a mention before and I love it: Interestingly the yellow is the last and longest to flower, the red flowers and finishes first and the yellow/red goes of in between :lol:

PC120253.jpg
PC120254.jpg


Some African Crotons, love the colours in these:
PC120240.jpg


Also my water lilly: Part of a thriving mini eco-system :p I've got aquatic snails & worms & frogs breeding in there, and god knows what else.
PC120244.jpg


Which attracts a RBB back every year & a few of these, which are also a part of my garden: (just for you Blue)
PC060226.jpg
 
Borntobenude,
I forgot to mention burning as a means of controlling asparagus fern. This is best done in autumn or winter. A method of burning of I have found effective is to dowse the vegetation to be destroyed liberally with kerosene. Then add a few generous splashes of petrol to the ignition point. A balled up piece of paper towelling with a little added petrol or metho, lit and then flung onto the ignition area, does the trick plus. Just be prepared for the ensuing whoosh! Surviving shoots that appear come spring should be treated with Glysophate as directed. Repeat the following spring if needed and that should be the end of it.

Fourexes,
The more I think about the more I am convinced that fertilizers you used on your plants were either faulty or not genuine slow release. I have had 30years of experience with using different fertilisers and you really do have to go out of your way with highly soluble stuff to kill plants. There may have been contributing factors of another nature. One really needs to be on the spot at the time to diagnose what might be happening. Something to bear in mind, if you have a really good nursery you know of, take any plants that are ailing to the head person and ask their advice. They are usually more that happy to diagnose what they think is happening and advise you as to the appropriate remedial action.

Nice looking plants. The xanthorrhoea looks too young to be flowering yet. I’d give 5 or so years before it’s mature enough – but I am no expert in this respect. Your Cycas revoluta is only a young fella, as indicated by the number of leaves. It is clearly well looked judging by the thickness of the base. \

To put into correct perspective a comment I made earlier about watering… They respond to deep watering but at the same time they like to dry out between waterings. I have never bothered to read up on their cultivation. This is entirely based on my own practical experience. It is probably worth your while to seek out the advice of those more experienced than I.

Blue
 
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Thanks once again blue, although I don't usually use slow release nutes at all. I grow alot of vegetables and try to taper them off completely before harvest, using only water. I think treating my showy plants like vegies is obviously not a good approach so I may re-adopt the slow release again.

The xanthorrhoea is well over ten years old, 20 at a guess, I thought that would be old enough, I guess when they live as long as they do theres no rush for them lol. It was just the fact that the out-laws bought a couple that were half the size and they not only speared soon after but also grew new pups which to be honest surprised the pants off me. I'm now aware of how many different varieties of xanthorrhoea there are and each is a little different. I'm also convinced it would be happier in the ground in a well drained elevated position, just waiting to own my own house so I hope it can wait a while...

I have thought about the local nursery as they have given me nothing but great advice in the past, it's just a pitty it's 30kms away makes it a bit inconvenient. Good thing we have handy digital cameras!
Thanks for getting the light bulb on again mate. I'll post some more pics of some other good ones I have & small succulent collection soon to show my gratitude.
 
Thanks also blue but , its situated under my favourite Green bottlebrush intersperced with a pink orchid :(
 
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:lol:They are ALL DOG TREES


Lucky you didnt take pics of their BITE :lol:
 
just a few plants from the front yard, the two melaluca's are different, thesecond one is a tiny plant with delicate little flowers
 
A few timeline pics of plants seen before:
Cycas: Growing like some kind of monster 8)
PC210321.jpg
PC210322.jpg


And the crotons for caliherp: the last pic is flowering, even I didn't know it could do that lol looks like a firecracker.
PC210325.jpg
PC210326.jpg
PC210330.jpg

And the kangaroo paw: which I find looks best just on finishing flower, gets a nice mix of colours..
PC210333.jpg
PC210334.jpg
PC210335.jpg


And a few of the locals:
PC170290.jpg
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I'll post the other pics I promised when I get back to the garden and get it looking a little less shabby haha.

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Grevilliea:
PC210356.jpg

Crows nest fern? can't remember it's getting too late in the evening...
PC210360.jpg

And I think this is agapanthus:
PC210355.jpg
PC210359.jpg

Also if anyone knows could I get an ID on these two:
PC210351.jpg
PC210328.jpg
 
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Bushfire, be careful, it is as addictive as herps. I can remember coming across a single Grevillea flower on a walking track in Brisbane Waters National Park. I was in my early twenties and it was so exquisitely different and beautiful that it started my interest in native plants – which a few years down the track changed from interest to obsession. I don’t do a lot now due to personal circumstances having changed but was heavily involved in propagating and a bit of growing for 25 plus years.

I would be interested to know what kangaroo paws and Sturt’s Desert Peas you grow and how you have set them up to grow them in Sydney’s climate.

Hi Blue,

Sorry its taken this long to reply. The Sturt's Desert Peas I have are grown from readily available seeds. One has the black pea and the other is a reddish orange pea. A few years ago I had one with a white pea but haven't been able to produce it again. I normally do ok with them on sydney sand but again it is a hit and miss affair. Once I get them to germinate they will almost always go through to flower.

Of the Kangaroo paw, I have three that are true to species and the others that are readily available hybrids. I keep them in a native mix soil and they go pretty good with multiple flowering events.
 
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