TrueBlue's Anti-Thermostat Stand

some species need to be cooled more so than others, some hardly need to be cooled at all to sucssesfully breed. The cool temps will help the male produce viable sperm and let them know the seasons are changing.
Because alot of keepers use those mongrel thermostat things, their snakes have no idea what time of the year/season it is half the time, as they are constantly kept at the same temps.(imo a bad way to keep herps, but the perfered way by most keepers??).
If these animals arnt cooled to an extent, most would never breed.

That's fine where you live Rob lol, but not easy to do in Canberra when overnight cooling would be well below zero. The answer for extremely cold climates is thermostats with nightime drop! Or dual day night thermostats to mimic seasons!

i disagree hazzard, the way i keep my snakes works better in a cool climate than it does in a warm climate. Belive me.

Whats your method Blue?
Do you keep your non breeders (juves) warm or cool them and slow their food down as well?

pretty much all my stuff has a heated area and an unheated area, created normally with a division, and they just move from side to side to warm up or cool down, simple, and no thermostat needed, and no chance of cooking a snake when the thermostat malfuntions.

I'm guessing Rob goes with a day cycle at night and a night cycle during the day.

It's amazing some of the biggest breeders in the country manage to breed as much as they do with those bloody thermostats LOL.

hahaha, yes its amazing is it not boa. hahaha. Lots of ways to do things, ive used both methods with sucsess, but imo the no thermostat way is by far superior and seems to be so much better for the animals health long term.

Not sure what you mean there boconnor.

So you don't use a thermostat? ...Sounds like there's MORE of a chance to cook a snake alive.

Every snake has a thermo-gradient? So they can always move to a cooler area of the enclosure..

I'll sit this one out this time, but I will get beer and popcorn if anyone wants to join me.......LOL

TrueBlue said:

hahaha, yes its amazing is it not boa. hahaha. Lots of ways to do things, ive used both methods with sucsess, but imo the no thermostat way is by far superior and seems to be so much better for the animals health long term.

Not sure what you mean there boconnor.

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I'm with true Blue

It doesn't matter how many times you explain it I still for the life of me can't see how having a thermostat makes the slightest bit of difference to the health or lifespan of a snake ? You use low wattage bulbs without a stat and I use low wattage bulbs with one, my animals have a warm end and a cool end. I use dimmer stats which keeps a nice constant temp at one end and cooler at the other end, even if my thermostat did malfunction it couldn't overheat because of the low wattage bulbs.
I don't question it works for you but can't see ANY way that it can affect the snakes health by having a thermostat.

TrueBlue said:

hahaha, yes its amazing is it not boa. hahaha. Lots of ways to do things, ive used both methods with sucsess, but imo the no thermostat way is by far superior and seems to be so much better for the animals health long term.

Not sure what you mean there boconnor.

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most people dont use low wattage bulbs thou boa so there is very little temp gradiant in most box type enclosures.

Philk, not at all there is no chance to cook a snake as there is always an area that is unaffected by any heating and is always room temp. Whereas a box type enclosure that relys on a thermostat to control temps runs the risk of cooking the snakes if the thermostat breaks, and they do, i know of quite a lot of cooked snakes from thermostat set ups over the years.

One thing about your setups confuses me Rob.You have a heated section and a cooler section seperated by a partition with a hole in it big enough for the snake to travel back and forth.

Once the section being heated gets warm/hot then it would fill with warm air which would then start spilling into the cooler section through the hole.After a period of time both sides would equalize with regard to temp.

O DEARY ME!

It seems ive started anopther thermostat debate!! I already did that last year, that wasnt the urpose of this thread. I just wanted to know why males could only produce viable sperm when its cold and what happens to the female when the temps are down so as they make little egg shaped babies :shock::shock::shock:

not at all Ramsayi, pegboard is used in most of the enclosures and as heat rises rather than spreads virtically it has no or little effect on the other side, especially under the paper, which if enough layers are used are most snakes perfered hides. As said the unheated side always remains at room temp.

Whats room temp for you TB?

hey Rob why dont you post a lil pic of one of your enclosures so that they can see

also i think your way works well due to the fact that the cages/enclosures are long enough so that you can keep the gradiant from hot to cold without ever heating up the cool side

lols i got some insulation stuff not the fibreglass stuff your used to this new stuff that my step dad has only just got passed all the safety regs and rules at his work
that i playing with atm ive got it sitting on a heat mat in a smallish box with a thermometre on top of the insulation and so far for a whole week of the heat matt being on flat out no heat at all has passed through
its hot underneath but cold on top so it looks like its working well and may start using it in some setups
kinda like how Robs are

hugsta said:

I'll sit this one out this time, but I will get beer and popcorn if anyone wants to join me.......LOL

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HAHA, I know what your not saying Daz

Pass the popcorn

junglepython, ranges from 34 on some hot summer days to below 10 in the winter.

Heres a couple of pics of how most are set up.