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make sure you don't drop the shutter speed below 1/125 as most on camera flash will not sync below that shutter speed i.e if the shutter speed is at 1/90 then the shutter will be too slow to catch the flash.

What do you mean by this? I've never heard of a shutter speed being too slow for a flash. I know the opposite problem occurs - most dSLRs won't let you use a shutter speed above 1/250 sec when using the built-in flash.


Stewart
PS: Jordo - thanks for the plug!
 
What do you mean by this? I've never heard of a shutter speed being too slow for a flash. I know the opposite problem occurs - most dSLRs won't let you use a shutter speed above 1/250 sec when using the built-in flash.


Stewart
PS: Jordo - thanks for the plug!

I duno about the built in flash, but I know that if you aren't using a tripod then you dont really want to drop below 1/250sec or you'll experience blurryness...

General rule of thumb, the length of the lens you are using is the minimum shutter speed you can use for hand held shots. Example: you have a 50mm - 200mm lens, and you zoom right in, the lens is at 200mm, therefore you don't want to drop the shutter speed below 1/200sec... then you zoom right out, the lens is 50mm, you don't want to drop the shutter speed below 1/50sec.
 
I duno about the built in flash, but I know that if you aren't using a tripod then you dont really want to drop below 1/250sec or you'll experience blurryness...

As you've gone on to say, the lowest shutter speed you can reasonably expect to use is very much dependant on the focal length at which you're shooting. Additionally, using a lens with Vibration Reduction/Image Stabilisation helps a lot. My 105mm macro lens with VR lets me shoot at 1/60 sec if need be. Normally for macro work I shoot at about 1/125 sec.


Stewart
 
yeah.. lol :D I don't have image stabiliser on my macro so im stuck with 1/125 and dropping DOF :( ahh well hehehe
 
Tell me about it! I'm looking at the twin lite macro flash kit for canon but at just over $1000 it's not something I can just walk out and buy :p hehe eventually i will though haha
 
i learn alot from looking at other photographer's works. ive learnt alot from Micheal D. Kern.
l recomend looking him up. he has a real talent.
 
Anyone use extension tubes for macro? I am considering getting one as macro lens are far to expensive for me,and i am not looking for super close ups.
 
What do you mean by this? I've never heard of a shutter speed being too slow for a flash. I know the opposite problem occurs - most dSLRs won't let you use a shutter speed above 1/250 sec when using the built-in flash.


Stewart
PS: Jordo - thanks for the plug!


Most cameras actually sync at 1/90 but the newer ones are faster. It simply has to do with the mechanical parts of the shutter anything slower than 1/125 as a generalisation would mean that by the time the shutter opens the flash has already occured light is much faster than any mechanical part man has ever made hence the flash sync on cameras. This means that the internal settings of each camera is set to this i.e the flash will only fire when the shutter is fully open. As a suggestion for using on camera flash there should be a setting on your flash that says slow sync. It is best to have this on as it extends the burst of the flash the camera will now to only fire the flash after the shutter has opened. It's kinda a helping hand setting.
 
Anyone use extension tubes for macro? I am considering getting one as macro lens are far to expensive for me,and i am not looking for super close ups.


The problem with extension tubes is the reduced depth of feild and the magnification factor on the camera CCD. This already happens when you put film lenses on DSLR. If you are not fussed about achieving "true" 1:1 ratio then it should not be a problem. What I have a problem with extension tube is the fact that depth of field goes out the window as the aperture is calculated for the length of the lens to the film/CCD plane, if you extend that even though you can still get sharp focus depth of field via aperture is basically out the window. Also if you do use extension tubes you will have a hard time focusing via the focus ring on the lens, again due to the fact that the focal length is calculated to the film/CCD plane to use the focus ring. The best way to focus using extension tubes is to set the lens focus on infinity and physically move forwards or backwards will looking through the view finder which is fine if you have a still subject but any movement by the subject or you will throw out the focus.
 
Most cameras actually sync at 1/90 but the newer ones are faster. It simply has to do with the mechanical parts of the shutter anything slower than 1/125 as a generalisation would mean that by the time the shutter opens the flash has already occured light is much faster than any mechanical part man has ever made hence the flash sync on cameras. This means that the internal settings of each camera is set to this i.e the flash will only fire when the shutter is fully open. As a suggestion for using on camera flash there should be a setting on your flash that says slow sync. It is best to have this on as it extends the burst of the flash the camera will now to only fire the flash after the shutter has opened. It's kinda a helping hand setting.

Maybe we're talking about two different things. You seem to be saying that the longer the shutter is open, the less likely it is to capture a flash. Or am I misunderstanding you? I know for a fact that I can use a flash on a camera with a shutter speed of 5 seconds (or 30 seconds), because I do that quite often.


Stewart
 
Maybe we're talking about two different things. You seem to be saying that the longer the shutter is open, the less likely it is to capture a flash. Or am I misunderstanding you? I know for a fact that I can use a flash on a camera with a shutter speed of 5 seconds (or 30 seconds), because I do that quite often.


Stewart
You're correct mate, it all depends on the speed of the camera firing the flash, some camera models will fire the flash before the shutter is fully open others don't. It's just a generalisation on the workings of the camera. It's just playing it safe really. What we are trying to do is ensure that the flash only fires when the camera is fully open as when you use fully manual on your camera, on some camera it turns off all it's internal sync settings. So unless you know the camera inside out it's just playing safe. Once the shutter is open you can fire the flash at anytime really.

If you have an external flash you can even fire that twice before the shutter closes if you have it open long enough this effectively doubles your exposure setting allowing you to achieve greater depth of field.
 
most important tip

dont let your kids get at your camera.
mine is broken , and when i looked on the memory card it was alot of photos of my daughters fingers and eyeball. i have no idea how she got it but too late now.
 
RAW is best for when your are planning to do some post producing. Otherwise JPEG can be as good.

The eye and toungue phone are nice but a very high ISO, drop the ISO Down and try again. I do love the tongue photo..
I use macro extention tubes with my Canon 40D with a 18-200mm lens and get great shots of insects etc.. my husband does more professional photography and he uses a Canon50D with a variety of lens. He also just steals my macro tubes for close shots.

Macro tubes (Good cheap ones) cost $225 from
Foto Riesel
364a Kent St Sydney NSW 2000
ph: (02) 9299 6745

they cost around $200-$250 But if they don't have any sets left try these people (the extension tube set is 2/3s of the way down the page for $225)
www.d-d-photographics.com.au/canonlenses.htm

For the record I don't work in the industry I just found this store when looking for tubes last year.
 
100mm macro taken hand held in about 2 seconds lol ;)

Any positive criticism would be good! ahh its heavily compressed btw
 

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