Antaresia Childreni not eating

[team351]

Hi All. I brought a new (hopefully) male Childreni approx 5 years old 2 weeks ago from a large pet store with the plan to breed next year, and the pet store said that he had not eaten for 5 months. And being that my female had not eaten for about 4 months (whereas she has always been a regular eater) and started eating two weeks ago. I now stupidly? thought there was no immediate concern then with both snakes. The new snake has less form but very active when handled as compared with the female. It is now two weeks since I have had the new snake and he has only striken once at a thawed fuzzy rat and latched on for about 1 minute then let go and lost all interest, have tried thawed adult mice and he has shown no interest at all. and now is starting to show less form body wise thought very active when handled. Getting really concerned and would love to get some good advise..
​

 

[Riggsy]

Still wouldn't worry too much yet. Being 5 yrs old he should have heaps of fat on him so he could go another 5 months without a feed. It's still cold and the snakes have a knack of knowing when they don't want to eat. I've got two female Maculosa's. One feeds all year round ( bit of a guts ) and the other last ate in May and only last week had another feed. As long as your temps etc are good ( Up to 33-35 at hot end ) then offer food every two weeks until he's ready.

 

[burger]

Getting temps right as Riggsy said is obviously crucial. Make sure the mouse is nice and warm (38c sort of thing) by putting on something warm, like a heater or something. If you have any lizards or anything, rubbing some shed skin over the mouse can attract its attention too. Also puncturing its gut and/or brain and spilling out some lovely juice could attract its attention.
Not handling it for a good day or so before could help, but really Id leave it alone without touching it for a good few days at the least if not a week so it has time to properly settle in and de-stress. As Riggsy said, it will be fine without eating for a while, so best to leave it alone so it gets comfy.
Also make sure it feels thoroughly alone and secure once the food is in there. So maybe covering up the glass somewhat or something, so it doesnt see you peering in, and keeps it faily dark. Make sure he also has a good hide where it feels safe and secure so it knows its got somewhere to go afterwards where it isnt vulnerable. Otherwise he might be hesitant to gulp the food down.
Id probably also just put the food in and then get right out of there and leave it alone, and let it find it in its own time. The spilled guts smell should have it hunting it down in no time!
Also, for a 5yo, he should probably be on something a bit bigger than a fuzzy rat i would say? maybe try weaners.

 

[team351]

Thank you very much for your advise Riggsy & burger it has put my mind at ease a little, as was really started to get worried. Will let you know how he goes. Have attached a few pictures with the second pic showing his lost of form so far, but to be expected I suppose with not eating for so long...

 

[beeman]

Snakes should lose very little to no condition while brumating, The main reasons for significant loss of weight during this period are the critter was not conditioned properly
prior to brumation or there is an underlying health issue.

 

[Riggsy]

Hi Team351

By the looks of the photos he's in fine shape. The Antaresia famliy are quick to gain weight when feeding. But any snake can handle a few weeks or months without a feed. I have a Male Coastal Carpet that "would only eat chickens" but 8 months of starving him got him back onto rats...and he only lost a few hundred grams from his initial 3.6 kilos. Burger gave some good pointers too. Just Chillax and your snake will do the same before too long.

 

[team351]

Hi Guys
Great news!! he has finally eaten today, though seemed strange to see him strike 4 times making a strange hissing sound before latching onto an adult thawed mouse. One very happy owner and feed python, thanks for the above advise was very helpful..

 

[JasonL]

I don't bother feeding adult pythons from end of March to Octish...

 

[Pythoninfinite]

I don't bother feeding adult pythons from end of March to Octish...

Especially Antaresias. I hope you're planning tp quarantine for at least 12 months... especially as the animal is from a pet store...

Jamie.

 

[team351]

Really why is that? have'nt heard that advise as yet, and as it so happens I have kept them separated.

Doug

 

[JAS101]

Really why is that? have'nt heard that advise as yet, and as it so happens I have kept them separated.

Doug

incase it has caught or has something wrong with it .

 

[beeman]

Keeping them seperated isnt enough by its self!
The practice of quarantine is to isolate the new critters in a totally
seperate area to your original critters (not in the same room at least)
Totally seperate husbandry equipment etc, Not handling the new critters and then your own, Requires a shower and change of clothing before going to your original critters.

 

[team351]

I was sort off alright then, upto handeling, do use repti-hand between each snake as I have three in total. Thanks for the advise as havent been told that by either the stores or breeder that I have purchased from in the past.

Thanks
Doug

 

[team351]

All good now, he's feeding on a regular basis now. Thanks..!!

 

[xxMelissaxx]

I was sort off alright then, upto handeling, do use repti-hand between each snake as I have three in total. Thanks for the advise as havent been told that by either the stores or breeder that I have purchased from in the past.

Thanks
Doug

I'd be doing some more research on basic practices if you intend on breeding, and then selling your animals to others. Quarantine is something that you should certainly know about, especially as you say you are intending to breed soon. Don't rely on pet stores or breeders to tell you this stuff - found it out for yourself as they likely don't mention it as they assume you are already aware.