Dimmers Vs Thermostats

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Extactly:

Effectively the dimmer reduces the heat output (watts) of your heat source (light, heat tape, etc.) So if you have a 40 watt heating element and you put it on a dimmer you can effectively reduce it to less than 40 watts.

[mains] -------[thermostat]--------[dimmer]-------[heat element]

Pluge your thermostat into the mains, the dimmer into the thermostat and the heat element into the dimmer.

If your themostat has a 40watt heat element on 50% of the time when you use the dimmer to reduce the output so say 30 watts it may be on 75% of the time and if you dim it even further to say 20 watts it may end up being on 90% of the time.

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i use a digital thermostat from jaycar that also shows the current termperature of where the stat is placed in the tank and reads "heat" when it is under the preset amount (which i have at 28C in the middle of the tank) cost $35. great for ceramic heaters. i dont use globes. shorter life span, don't hold the heat as long in the off periods (saving in electricity), and doesn't at like a strobe show for my snakes. IMO
 
herptrader said:
Extactly:

Effectively the dimmer reduces the heat output (watts) of your heat source (light, heat tape, etc.) So if you have a 40 watt heating element and you put it on a dimmer you can effectively reduce it to less than 40 watts.

[mains] -------[thermostat]--------[dimmer]-------[heat element]

Pluge your thermostat into the mains, the dimmer into the thermostat and the heat element into the dimmer.

If your themostat has a 40watt heat element on 50% of the time when you use the dimmer to reduce the output so say 30 watts it may be on 75% of the time and if you dim it even further to say 20 watts it may end up being on 90% of the time.

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10% off all Barefoot Bushman DVD's at the Herp Shop
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just an additional thought to that way of heating, in a larger collections you have twice the equipment necessary to regulate temperature, and dimmers take up wattage as well equalling more $$$ to the electricity company
 
R1MAN said:
just an additional thought to that way of heating, in a larger collections you have twice the equipment necessary to regulate temperature, and dimmers take up wattage as well equalling more $$$ to the electricity company

Well a watt is a watt is a watt. If you dim a heat element from 40 watts to to 20 watts it is using half the power. With dimmers, most of which use triacs these days, there is minimal energy (ie: heat or watts) by the dimmer - feel them they do not get hot which they would if they were giving off energy.

Mechanical thermostats use no energy whether they are on or off unless they are faulty. Digital thermostats use bugger all energy and most are powered by batteries anyway.

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i only use plain thermostat and cheap bulbs it does the job i dont seem too have problams with them plus money wise it is cheaper
 
Kahn, whenever i change heating technology(i just like using big words) i run experiments to check the viability of my new solutions. I have found that as long as you arent using old resistor dimmers, that dimming after the thermostat actually uses less electricity and prolongs the life of globes, as switching is a detrimental factor in regards to element lifespan. However, when my budget allows, i will be changing over to dimming thermostats.
 
I use dimmers on there own, they are great. I dont need to "adjust all the time".

I find that they are great for variation of temp, day to day variaition - not a constant 32 deg as per thermostats.
I have them balanced to not over heat on a hot day and to keep the heat up on the cooler days.

It's all about balance.
The dimmers run with a timer as well, in a west facing room so the enclosures have no need to be heated for many hours a day so the electricity use a lot lower as well.

Maybe try dimmers before you bag them.

I will be putting one thermostat per bank just for a safe guard eventually, but I dont like to rely on them.

JMO :)
 
ihaveherps said:
Kahn, whenever i change heating technology(i just like using big words) i run experiments to check the viability of my new solutions. I have found that as long as you arent using old resistor dimmers, that dimming after the thermostat actually uses less electricity and prolongs the life of globes, as switching is a detrimental factor in regards to element lifespan. However, when my budget allows, i will be changing over to dimming thermostats.

agree with extending the life span by reduced switching. don't agree with less electricity. even with electronic dimmers, you reduce a 40watt element to 20watts , the run time doubles until the thermostat cycles off. so IMO 6 to 1 and 1/2 dozen the other. however they do consume some energy and yes it is small, but that is why i said in large collections say 20+ tanks. there is around another 15-20 watts in wasteage. not much but then add twice the equipment required for that method by 20+ and IMO ONLY that is $$$$$ that could of bought another snake
 
boa said:
Agreed, I rarely use a thermostat in a single cage, by that I mean I use one per bank and as long as the heat source is carefully thought out the temps remain constsnt throughout.

I have 2 banks, 1 is 4 accross, the 2 central enclosures always reach temperature first. The other is a 6 pack,3 high and 2 wide and the central 2 always heat up first. I rekon you need at least 1 thermo per enclosure.
 
Everyone definatly has their own way. What ever works for the individual.

But I dont think it is feazable for large collections to run thermostats in every enclosure.

Cheap thermostat = $30 X 30 enclosures = $900

Ouch!! $$ my pocket. :lol:

Would you trust 30 reptiles to a cheap switch that could fail. :roll:

It has a lot to do with how the enclosures are constructed, stacked & material used in the construction.

All about the set up.
 
That's right, no way could I use a thermostat in each cage and neither do I need to, the way I do it works fine.
 
I've got one t/stat running 8 enclosures just fine,I only use 5 thermostats, 3 dimmers and 2 probe type and a dimming one for the incubator,works just fine for a fair amount of animals and enclosures and not too expensive,as playwell said it's all in the construction etc
 
I have NO thermostats running dozens of enclosures and everything thrives. :wink:
 
re Dimmers

TrueBlue said:
I have NO thermostats running dozens of enclosures and everything thrives. :wink:
Yes True Blue smartypance they breed like rabbits also i hear,you are the pox to all manufacturers and retailers :lol:
 
Trueblue,

Quick question: Do you heat your enclosures with mats, cable, tape etc., or just use the lights?

:p

Hix
 
mainly 15 and 25 watt blues, 25 and 40s in winter when cooling, ie cold nights, hot days, to give a bit more heat during the day. But the way I set it up I can heat 5-7 enclousres with 2 bulbs, so the cost is very minimal which needs to be when you have a large collecton.
 
I think the amount of energy consumed by a dimmer is in the order of milliwatts. 15 to 20 watts expended by dimmer would see it get very hot indeed! (Think of a 20 watt light bulb, try holding on to one for a while.)

Of course the on time will increase as you reduce the wattage but as the whole purpose of heating is to release energy (watts) into the enclosure in a controlled way I find it hard to argue that it is wasted.

For my part I do not use dimmers. I use heat tape in all my set ups and install it under ceramic tiles. These very effectively buffer the heat reducing the peaks associated with the on/off nature of mechanical thermostats. Instead of a dimmer I would suggest adjusting the wattage of the heating element. (Ie if you are using light bulbs for heating, adjust the wattage so they are on most of the time when it is cool outside the enclosure.
 
Dimmers

So i gather mr TB smartypance,that when you go fishing its low tek dragm in and uethanize with a base ball bat,no fancy high teknic fishfinder contraptions and stuff,just throw an old loaf of bread in the water to attracts the mongrels :lol:
 
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