Fussy snake - braining pinkie rat, or dip in egg yolk?

[jacks-pythons]

i agree with slide. if the temps arnt right its not going to eat. remember there cold blooded animals and need to be warmed up to be able to digest there food properly. always have a thermometer if u not get a thermostate. u can get then cheap on the net.

 

[slide]

Great that you could finally get the breeder to replace the python, I wish you luck with the new baby.
Bunnings has some good didital thermometers that are for reading both at the unit and at the probe which has about 2m of cord, I use these to measure both the room temp and the temp inside the tub at the same time. also in my larger enclosures I install the unit inside the enclosure at the cool end and run the probe to the warm end so i can see both temps at the same time, it also has a max/min function so I can see how cool things got during the night and how hot they got during the day then I just press reset and check again the next day. This is very good when setting up new tubs or making any changes to your setup as you can check constantly and make any necessary adjustments to your setup, you can also move the probe to different spots to check temps around the tub but I would just leave it in one spot when settling in a snake as it will cause disturbance and possibly stress- this can be done however when doing a dry run on a setup or if you have a tub that is set up identical with no animals in it but I am guessing that as money is an issue and you already have your animals then you wont have the cash for extra heat mats that you will not be using. I have found them to be very reliable and a necessary tool for only $12, cheap enough to put one in each tub if needed but if the tubs are set up identically in the same circuit with the same heat source then in theory the temps should be the same. You can find them in the gardening aisles and I think they are labelled as 'indoor/outdoor digital thermometer' or something like that- Cheap but not nasty.
Good luck settling in the new bub just follow Jungle Freak's advice for this guy and as long as your temps are sweet then you should have a happy snake. remember to let the new guy settle in- no handling, dont attempt to feed for the first week, and (I know its really hard when you get a new snake as its an exciting time) but dont keep looking in at it, there is plenty of time for that- possibly 20 odd years if all goes well. Just let it chill out and learn that its new environment is not a threatening place, then the feeding should come naturally. You might be able to find a second hand thermostat in the for sale section on this site or even on eBay for a resonable price, this would be a great investment in your pets health, its much cheaper than a vet bill thats for sure!
Check out some of the articles at www.sxr.com.au/RA ARTICLE PAGE.htm there is some great info there and its all layed out right in front of you.
Good luck with every thing.

 

[kawasakirider]

Thanks mate, I'm in the middle of packing up to head home for Easter so I'll read and have a decent reply tonight.

Just an update; the hatch that I got to replace the non feeder has a small spinal deformity. Anyway the breeder didn't wanna charge me for him and gave me another snake. So I have 3 now.

The one I got home yesterday is quite feisty and smashed down a pinky rat after I let her settle for a while. The one with lumps on it's spine hasn't eaten but I will just give him time.

Thanks for the replies everyone.

 

[WAG_S]

Hi all, long time fan first time poster lol.......

i have just bought a yearling coastal python little 2 day ago. (first snake)
still yet to feed him. he looks very skinny very slight outline of bones. i have him in a home made clcik clack inside a 4x2x2 enclosure Im hoping to attempt to feed shortly but many say to wait a week???? before trying? the guy i bought from said he will be due for a feed about now. Should i attempt to feed or should i allow him the time to settle?

Also should i be feeding him in the clcik clack? or in the bigger enclosure. Have been told not to handle after feeding ???

 

[shellfisch]

Also should i be feeding him in the clcik clack? or in the bigger enclosure. Have been told not to handle after feeding ???

First, and most important, check that your temps are all good (if you haven't already)
Next, leave him alone for several days.
Then, attempt a feed. Don't remove him from his home to feed.
Give it a few days after a feed to handle, but preferably, get 2-3 consecutive, trouble free feeds into him before you introduce any handling. That will minimize any problems you may experience.
Good luck.

 

[veenarm]

Wow, not cool it came to replacing the snake...
I have 2 new diamonds and one being a hatchie and one is about 8months old, hatchie never strikes at me, but wont feed - just shed as well, but didnt eat last night - I've only had the hatchie for 11days so i'm just going to ignore her for 2 weeks, her temps are 32 in the high rise, and she moves around the enclosure as she pleases.

The 8 month old one however, was tricky never ate, and still struggles - but sometimes i leave a pinky in the enclosure and she decides to take it, however my issue is she is VERY snappy, likes biting me... and protective, had her over a month now, hoping she calms down and not so scares later as she is a magnificent animal - breeder has offered to replace however I don't want to

Braining for me doesn't work - but I will try egg yolk next week!

Also, the 8month old seems very interested in my scent and biting me, rather than the mouse when i put it in!

 

[slide]

the 8month old seems very interested in my scent and biting me, rather than the mouse when i put it in!

Is your mouse warm enough? maybe the heat you give off is much warmer than that of the mouse/, add that with the scent of mouse and you become the target. Are you offering a pink mouse or rat? how small is your 8 month old???

 

[veenarm]

mm come to think about it, i don't really warm them up, just defrost it then leave it, so its probably cold when feedind (but thawed) how do you warm it? hot water or heat lamp/pad? i know can't microwave etc...

8month old is .. wait i have the stats here.. Ah here it is.. Charlie, weighed 17/04/11 - 32grams, 52cm long

Charlie is very snappy, and cage aggressive though, so trying to leave him alone for as long as possible, hoping he calms down in a few more weeks.

 

[kawasakirider]

That's REALLY light for an 8 month old! Kinda short, too. Our big male is 41grams and can't remember how long, about 45cm. He's 3-4 months.

Hope you get him feeding.

 

[veenarm]

He is a Diamond, but yeh, his feed chart is consistent he does eat, but not all the time

 

[shellfisch]

how do you warm it?

hot tap water (not boiling) replace the hot water if necessary until the food item is warmed through

 

[veenarm]

oh, they are both in perfect health as well, noticed them both bathing the other day and the baby shed 2 days ago.. i uploaded some pics of them and enclosures to my album on aPS..

hot tap water (not boiling) replace the hot water if necessary until the food item is warmed through

Ah cool that's what I thought

 

[WAG_S]

thanks shellfish,

just wondering when you check the temps at both ends im guessing you take it at snakes level? i have 31.5 at hot end and 26 at the cool end at ground level.

Thanks for your advice about feeding,handling etc. Will wait atleast another week before feeding and wont handle for three weeks.

 

[slide]

his feed chart is consistent he does eat, but not all the time

Then I would say he is not a consistent feeder, or you could say he is consistently inconsistent??? jokes aside food can be warmed with warm tap water, even defrosted in it just when you get onto bigger meals you might need to change the water a few times as the larger the food the more heat will be stripped from the water. Remember not to use boiling water. If you feed the prey item at say 20 degrees and the snake is say 30 degrees then it will effectively be cooling the snake. Hope that helps.
If you still have issues then its probably a good idea to start your own thread as it takes others threads off topic. Good luck

also the more reading and research you do the better it will be for you and your scaly mates

 

[kawasakirider]

Then I would say he is not a consistent feeder, or you could say he is consistently inconsistent??? jokes aside food can be warmed with warm tap water, even defrosted in it just when you get onto bigger meals you might need to change the water a few times as the larger the food the more heat will be stripped from the water. Remember not to use boiling water. If you feed the prey item at say 20 degrees and the snake is say 30 degrees then it will effectively be cooling the snake. Hope that helps.
If you still have issues then its probably a good idea to start your own thread as it takes others threads off topic. Good luck

also the more reading and research you do the better it will be for you and your scaly mates

I don't mind. This thread has been a rollercoaster. I'm just stoked that my newest addition is a good feeder, and "lumpy" should feed (he's bigger than the other one so it's obvious he's been eating, and he shed the first night I had him).

 

[veenarm]

Fair enough, I mean I have never seen him eat, looks at it and strikes at me instead, but he feeds every 2 weeks or so, but try feed him sooner, he doesn't want it. I've got a pinkie in both enclosures for tonight. If no joy then leave them for another 7 days try again, no rush or panicking really they are healthy and lively (very) so im good, seen them bathing as well so very lovely to watch, only the rare eating

 

[Miss_Stripey]

mmmmkkk
welll if you replaced the snake good on the breeder for taking the non feeder back BAD on them for Giving you another with a spinal deformity!!!! It goes to show people should not sell their animals to inexperienced people when they are not feeding properly and they should not sell deformed animals OR give them away as replacements!!!

Sorry mate this does not seem like your fault but i think that breeder is dodge......