Msny thsnks to
UPDATE
Many thanks to all who contributed; and diagnosing it as prolapse was great advice that made the vet know in advance what he was dealing with, and George’s reply helped to calm me down and give it the best treatment. It had surgery this afternoon that went well and I brought it home late in the afternoon. I was advised to apply a water-based lubricant to make sure the lump would not get dry, so I got some from a chemist and applied it with a small paintbrush every hour and a half before the vet appointment. The vet was quite pleased with the state of the prolapse and how well my baby seemed and was quite confident that the surgery would go well. He said that keeping the enclosure box with moist sphagnum moss and constantly warmed at about 30° had kept it from getting dry and going bad.
Thanks for the offer of recommendation of a vet, but I had already booked at in Buderim, that has a doctor with the right experience to deal with my baby python. It’s not easy to find a vet with the right experience for a problem with a snake on the Sunshine Coast, and I’m very satisfied with the treatment.
The procedure was to inject it with a drug to make it drowsy, then push the raw flesh back in towards the head and use a couple of stitches to stop it from popping out again until it is fully healed. The stitches will be removed in 14 days, and I must keep an eye out for abnormal swellings or infections. I was also advised that prolapse is fairly common in this species (as George indicated); and that there can be a few causes including spinal problems, parasites and intestines, but all I can do to observe and keep it well hydrated. Both the vet and a hobby breeder I know think that this one is amazingly forward for its age and it’s a good sign that it can be seen drinking; as it can be a real problem to get some to drink at all, and this baby has a great appetite. I have only spotted my other one drinking once. Amazingly; the prolapse never seemed to bother it, and it was always alert and has always looked keen to slither around and explore when it wasn’t curled up in a knot resting (like they are most of the time).
I plan to keep both my babies in their30cm x 25 cm enclosures for another two to three months or until they look like they want more space, as Green Tree Pythons juveniles feel safe in small spaces. I use three layers of moist absorbent kitchen paper for substrata with a clump of sphagnum moss I one end. It makes it easy to replace and clean out every day and makes faeces easy to spot. The recent sheds of both my juveniles were in one piece, and I think that indicates that they’re probably well hydrated.
I have joined chondros on FB but more advice would be welcome and I’m still considering changing their diet to hairy mice.
Thanks again, Lars.