How to cool the cool end

[licky]

He said that the "cool end" was hitting 30 degrees NOT the room.!! This was with the heat turned on. ""- True BLue

Yeh and i originally said turn off the lights ages ago. Why would you hav the lights on, on a hot day?

 

[Mulcahy]

there is heaps of air vents but the room temp is 30 so i will have to try that so nobody recomends a fan and if the water is cool it coulg get in there couln't it

no i sayed that room temp is 30 so yeah

 

[TrueBlue]

Mulcahy, not in your first post you didnt, you only refered to the cool end of the enclouser.
It was after everyone had made suggestions that you said the room was 30 degrees.
Common sence would then tell you to turn off the heat.

 

[Ramsayi]

sigh.......I replied to ColHunter after Mulchay replied that the room was getting to 30C but will still stand by my original post.I don't care what type of divider you have in your cages.......the point is if the room temps are getting to high 20s low 30 because of the weather you will have no gradient in the cages anyway...............so the divider line is a moot point.

 

[TrueBlue]

Agreed, when room temps are that warm only an ice pack etc will do anything, but even then not needed if its only for a few hours.
When room temps are low a didvider imo is invaluable for a decent temp gradient in most cases.

 

[Ramsayi]

Agreed, when room temps are that warm only an ice pack etc will do anything, but even then not needed if its only for a few hours.
When room temps are low a didvider imo is invaluable for a decent temp gradient in most cases.

Maybe maybe not................When room temp is kept at a stable lower temp you will always have a gradient provided the ventialtion in the cages is adequate with or without the use of a divider.

 

[TrueBlue]

Yes you will always have a certain amount of gradiant thats true, but not as much if part of the tank is completely uneffected by the heat scource. Even in a large horizental tank the cool end will be higher than the roon temp with a constant heat scorce down the other end. A divider stop this.
The larger the temp gradiant the better.
Even in the dead of winter when the room temp/and cold side temp is well below 10 degrees the snakes use it much more than you would think, in fact it tends to be used more than the hot end.
Most set ups just dont alow snakes acsess to such low temps yet they love it and constantly use it.

 

[scorps]

Yes you will always have a certain amount of gradiant thats true, but not as much if part of the tank is completely uneffected by the heat scource. Even in a large horizental tank the cool end will be higher than the roon temp with a constant heat scorce down the other end. A divider stop this.
The larger the temp gradiant the better.
Even in the dead of winter when the room temp/and cold side temp is well below 10 degrees the snakes use it much more than you would think, in fact it tends to be used more than the hot end.
Most set ups just dont alow snakes acsess to such low temps yet they love it and constantly use it.

I have to agree with true blue most of my adult python cages have a divider set up and it works a treat.

Its funny tru blue most people ether love you or hate you on this site lol.

 

[Bax155]

Ive building an enclosure at the moment and it is a hollow core set up which I have insulated with pink bats, do you reckon this would help with enclosure temps on such a hot day?? It works for houses!!

 

[TrueBlue]

Scorps, yeah thats true, because i do alot of things different to the main stream and it works so well, i tend to put a few peoples noses out of joint.
I dont give a stuff what anyone thinks of me thou, thats their problem not mine. lol.

 

[Retic]

The divider system was around when I first started keeping seriously and it does work to an extent but I can't see that it works any better than other methods, both ends will be whatever the room temperature is regardless of dividers. Most of my cages are just the simple longer than height type of thing and the snakes go to whichever end they prefer.
It just comes down to whatever you prefer.

 

[Ramsayi]

Scorps, yeah thats true, because i do alot of things different to the main stream and it works so well, i tend to put a few peoples noses out of joint.
I dont give a stuff what anyone thinks of me thou, thats their problem not mine. lol.

If that was directed because of my replies then you have things a bit mixed up......Originally I wasn't even replying to you,then you corrected me even though what I was replying to was 100% correct.

What you do or don't do with regard to your keeping is your own business and is of no consequence to me and as such my nose is not out of joint,however to bang on about how the methods you use are superior to the methods of others is a bit of a laugh.

 

[peterjohnson64]

Personally, I think that if you need to be at home and intervene in order to cool your animals then one day you will have a disaster. I refer everyone back to 1 January 2006 and the number of posts we received here from people who lost animals because someone forgot to turn on the air conditioning or forgot to check the animals or whatever. This simple fact is - one day you will not be at home when the temps hit 40 degrees. If your room temerature also hits 40 degrees on that day and you aren't at thome you are going to kill a number of animals. This does happen and has happened many times in the past.

Its great to have thermostats that turn the lights off but they fail (I know - I had a chondro cage heat light stay on for days because of thermostat failure). You can freeze water but that isn;t much good if you are at the beach when it gets hot.

When I designed my herp room I put most attention on insulating the room and making sure that the room itself can't get too hot. It workled fine until I put a 400 litre tropical turtle tank in there. This thing acts as a heater in the room. However, even now, on a 43 degree day the room only gets to 30 degrees. In only have thermostats in a couple of cages so the other lights just stay on. But at least I know - through lots and lots of testing - that my room won't overheat unless we have a bushfire or something. I spent my christmas holidays away and we had many 40 degree days. The animals just bask under 26 watt UV fluros.

If you are going to rely on human intervention to cool your animals make sure you book your holidays in June.

 

[TrueBlue]

Ramsayi,- huh, No not directed at you at all. So no need to get your nose out of joint. The only reason i think its superior to most methods is because it completely eliminates the need for a thermostat and in most cases gives a larger temp gradiant. Laugh all you like.

Boa,- when i first joined this site a few years back you argued black and blue about the no thermostat divider method and asked me to explain it to you in depth.? It works much better than to an "extent". Its by far not the only thing i do different to most people so was not only refering to that.

 

[Retic]

What ? I wasn't referring to you in any way, I was replying to what Ramsayi and others had said, what has it got to do with thermostats ? The system works for, that's great. Not the first time you've confused me

 

[TrueBlue]

Yes but thats not hard to do is it boa.

 

[Retic]

Quite right, you do it very well indeed but it wont be so easy if I ever get out of this armchair

 

[gozz]

You guys Rock lol

 

[Retic]

It keeps a smile on my face and that's the main priority.

 

[TrueBlue]

Hahaha, yeah i recon you wake up confused each morning boa.

PS, hows the new armchair going by the way.? Comfy?.