Need some advice !!!

[gardinator]

I'm building a big enclosure for my SWCP the measurements are
1765 wide x 1232 tall
im converting a big TV Cabinet.

basically what I'm having troubles with is deciding on the glass/ perspex, first of all glass or perspex ?

second-I wanted to make it have 2 big sliding glass/perspex because I want it to be completely visible with out obstructions basically because I think it looks neater.
But the problem im facing is that I have seen people write on here they go to bunnings and get there glass slides but when I go to bunnings I get told they dont have them or they have no idea what I am talking about and I get directed to tracks for draws instead.

does anyone know exactly what section they are in, in bunnings and can I get them big enough or will I have to look at a different method of doors on the front ?

thanks

 

[zzzboa]

go to a cabinet maker or a glazier.i had the same problem when doing mine bunnings don,t stock them,they take up to 5mm glass so should be ok for what you want.

 

[Jake007]

hey mate im in the middle of the same problem lol but im pretty sure im set on perspexs (cant spell it) cause its lighter easyer if u need to make a cut u can just shave alittle bit off if you were wrong (yes we are all wrong some times hahaha) but i think perpesx (again cant spell) but i think it is the way to go if u are cutting weight but all so its easyer to screw something in to it

and yer o to a cabinet maker tell him the sizes and he will be able to get everything ya need if u go with glass

 

[Jande]

Definitely a cabinet maker or glazier. Mitre 10 (here in NT at least) have offered to get some shipped in for me in the past and said it would take a week roughly to get them. Could be another option for you provided your local Mitre 10 would be willing to help.

 

[J-A-X]

Ask at bunnings for the sliding door hardware like rollers for wardrobe doors, or even the foam weatherstrips, I'm pretty sure that's where they were at my local green shed. 5mm is standard width but you can get it in 1200mm or 1800mm lengths. And make sure you read the instructions for measuring for your glass, get it wrong and you'll either not get the glass in or the glass will fall out, from memory the glass should be 11mm vertically shorter than the opening the track is going into, and make sure the opening is equal all the way along and especially not bowed in the middle or you'll have glass that jams.

Most times you can go to the special order counter and order it. Mine is actually cheaper at mitre 10 and they didnt scratch their head when I asked for it (at my local M10 it's out with the timber)

 

[gardinator]

ahh ok yeh i was thinking perspex because if I want to frame it later on i can by screwing it to wood cant do that with glass lol

hmm cabinet maker seems like the go then, and I will pop into mitre 10 and see what they recommend.

ok ill ask for that then thanks jaxrtfm, you would think if u explained what u where wanting and how it would be used they would be like oh yeh this but they all seem to be a bit brain dead !

 

[Monitor Madness]

In the attached thread explains where Bunnings stock them. I've bought them from there before. Post #6
http://www.aussiepythons.com/forum/diy-zone-5392/buy-runners-track-glass-doors-176206/

 

[gardinator]

YES ! now i know what to ask for... thankyou so much lol

 

[PythonLegs]

Perspex is easier, but it scratches as soon as you touch it.

 

[Lockie_1]

YES ! now i know what to ask for... thankyou so much lol

Hey mate i make my own enlosures because there so damn expensive to buy! id say go glass because it wont scratch its all ive ever used and i'd also see how flexible perspex is because you dont want any escapees haha =) and as for the tracks bunnings sell it in certain lengths and ive found it to be much easier and cheaper to go to a glazier and get them to cut it for you =)

hope this helps mate

 

[gardinator]

Hey mate i make my own enlosures because there so damn expensive to buy! id say go glass because it wont scratch its all ive ever used and i'd also see how flexible perspex is because you dont want any escapees haha =) and as for the tracks bunnings sell it in certain lengths and ive found it to be much easier and cheaper to go to a glazier and get them to cut it for you =)

hope this helps mate

ok thanks, yeh i was told perspex can be quite expensive too. well im going to go to bunnings tomorrow and suss out these tracks and then ill go to a glazier.
thanks

 

[Jande]

I ended up using the brown plastic tracks from Bunnings. They're in with the weather strips standing upright with weather seals and door locks etc. They're normally in plastic sleeve packaging. Just a note with these because I made the mistake myself, the shallow tracks go at the top and the deeper tracks go on the bottom. I just ripped one out without checking and ended up with two shallow bits which the glazier kindly informed was was incorrect Luckily I'm converting a tv cabinet now and the other piece of shallow track that I cut is still long enough lol. *silly me!*

Edit to add: They cost me $27 for the packet which is a shallow piece and a deeper piece 1800mm long. Easily cut with a hacksaw or something.
Also available in white.

 

[Monitor Madness]

the shallow tracks go at the top and the deeper tracks go on the bottom

Isnt it the other way around. The deeper tracks go at the top cause you slide the glass up and in over the bottom track then drop it in to it.

Im looking at a tank now and the deeper tracks are at the top.

Hope that make sense.

 

[gardinator]

I ended up using the brown plastic tracks from Bunnings. They're in with the weather strips standing upright with weather seals and door locks etc. They're normally in plastic sleeve packaging. Just a note with these because I made the mistake myself, the shallow tracks go at the top and the deeper tracks go on the bottom. I just ripped one out without checking and ended up with two shallow bits which the glazier kindly informed was was incorrect Luckily I'm converting a tv cabinet now and the other piece of shallow track that I cut is still long enough lol. *silly me!*

Edit to add: They cost me $27 for the packet which is a shallow piece and a deeper piece 1800mm long. Easily cut with a hacksaw or something.
Also available in white.

thanks for the heads up mate

Isnt it the other way around. The deeper tracks go at the top cause you slide the glass up and in over the bottom track then drop it in to it.

Im looking at a tank now and the deeper tracks are at the top.

Hope that make sense.

i think that might be right the one on my enclosure at the moment the deeper ones are on top

 

[Jande]

Womafan I thought so too but the idea is to slot the glass into the deeper tracks then into the top. Apparently it also prevents the glass being pushed out of the bottom tracks by accident because they're deeper. I didn't think this would be an issue myself but I've done it the way they suggested and it worked fine. The top is only as a guide and the bottom are supporting the weight of the glass so I thought it made sense. No problems so far.

 

[gardinator]

i guess its just one of those things that can go either way.

 

[Jande]

Yeah I really don't think it's a big deal. Just make sure you have one of each and you should be good :lol:

 

[longqi]

be careful with perspex..... even if you get lexen which used to be the best it still goes semi opaque after a relatively short time... especially when subjected to 30c 24/7... although its lighter and easier to work with I found its not worth it

 

[J-A-X]

LOL , the deeper track goes at the top, the glass gets pushed up into the top track and then dropped into the shallower lower track, if you've measured your glass right it will just clear the bottom track when you put it in (and fall out if you put the tracks in 'upside down' )and the packs have 2 tracks , 1 x shallow and 1 x deep track in each pack. It's designed this way so you can remove the glass if you have to like when a sliding glass door lock jams itself locked or the snake peeing in the track and effectively glueing the glass to the track - yes I've had both happen !

 

[Monitor Madness]

Womafan I thought so too but the idea is to slot the glass into the deeper tracks then into the top. Apparently it also prevents the glass being pushed out of the bottom tracks by accident because they're deeper. I didn't think this would be an issue myself but I've done it the way they suggested and it worked fine. The top is only as a guide and the bottom are supporting the weight of the glass so I thought it made sense. No problems so far.

That's interesting, how does the top actually hold it? It just doesn't seem like it would work too me. Are you able to remove the glass while the tracks are in position.
Hope you don't take it the wrong way not having a go at you just very curious, it doesn't seem like you would be able to remove the glass.