Reposted for ya Mayo
The new updated version:
What is the best First Snake?
You must first decide a few basic things:
1. How large you would like the python to be when fully grown
2. How much are you looking to spend
3. Is it for show only or is it a pet to be handled from time to time.
Here is a rough outline of what I think are some of the better pythons for first times.
Python Species.......... Size When Grown.......... Average Price.......... Price Low.......... Price High.......... Pet Store Price
Children’s........................1.2m............................. $150-$260.................... $150.......... ..........$400.......... .....$300
Spotted.............................1.5m................................$150-$260.................... $150.......... ..........$400.......... .....$300
Stimson............................1.0m............................... $200-$280.................... $200.......... ..........$500.......... .....$350
Bredli.................................3.0m.............................. $290-$390 .....................$250.......... ..........$1100.......... .....N/A
Diamond..........................2.1m.............................. $380-$480.................... $300.......... ..........$1200.......... .....N/A
Carpet...............................3.3m.............................. $100-$250 ....................$100......... ..........$1000.......... .....N/A
Murray Darlings...............2.4m............................. $150-$250 ....................$150 ....................$600.......... .....N/A
There are many other pythons available but these are the basics. This is just a rough guide of prices; the high end price is due to locality, colours, and patterns. Morph’s can fetch much higher prices than most other pythons and I have not priced them here as morph prices usually go into the thousands, morph’s are pythons like the albino, or have different markings than normal. Some species are available through pet stores, but other reptile specific stores can sell other species.
Some python can live for more than 25Yr’s or more. So they are a long term pet. Be sure that you can fit an enclosure to fit your python when fully grown into your home.
It is sometimes more convenient to purchase an older python, as you no they are feeding well, and can see there temperament. But it can be a lot pricier. A hatchy can be hand reared and can grow with you starting out in a small enclosure which can be easier on the wallet for starting out. There end enclosure should be half there length, by quarter of there length, by quarter of there length minimum. Larger the better in the end, as they will appreciate the room when fully grown.
Purchasing Your First Python
When purchasing your first python you should take great care in choosing. You should ensure that the python is feeding well, if in doubt, ask to come on a feeding day to see it being feed. This will also show you how to feed the python as well. With your python you should get a feeding, Shedding, and maybe even a defecation history. You would not be out of line to ask to see the parents. You can then see what markings the parents have and there temperament. Also check the snake over and handle it a little, as hatches they may be feisty and bite but it doesn’t hurt, it’s more a shock the first time. If something look’s wrong with the python there may be something wrong with the python. Follow your instincts with health, regardless of what you are told be the seller.
What Enclosure do I keep a Hatchy in?
Hatchy’s are usually kept in Click Clacks. Click Clacks are small plastic tubs available at most Bunning’s, Supermarkets, etc. It is just any reasonable sized container with a locking lid that has no gaps where a python might be able to get out. Pythons are professional escape artists so you must ensure that there are no gaps and they can not force the lid off you would be surprised by there strength. You will need to ensure that there is sufficient ventilation by making small holes in the enclosure; I usually just drill a number of strategically placed holes. A heat mat is the best heating for a hatchy/ juvenile in my opinion as it is cheaper, and is less prone to overheating than heat cord, and lamps in a click clack can be very difficult to mount. The heat mat should cover around 1/3rd the flooring of the click clack and not more than half the flooring space. It should also be fastened to the underside of the click clack at one end. This allows a heat gradient, from one end to the other. Your aim should be to have a warm end of approx 30-32 degrees celcius, and a cool end of around 24 degrees Celsius the python can then move between the warm area and cool areas to self regulate its own temp. You will need to use some type of flooring on the bottom of the enclosure, I would suggest absorbent paper, or news paper to start off as it is cheap but professional floorings are available. You will also need at least 2 hides more if you like they will appreciate places to hide. You will need 1 hide in the warm area and 1 hide in the cool area. Sufficient water supply is also required. Remember that from time to time they may choose to curl up in there water bowl so you will regularly need to check there water. I personally scrunch up some newspaper rand then pull it out a little to put in there enclosure so that they can hide in amongst it and slither against it. They are best kept on there own in these enclosures.
The exception to this is the diamond python because it requires UVA and UVB light (sun light). This can not be achieved through glass as the glass filters out the much needed UV light. Although a diamond python can be kept like this, it requires a regular dose of sunlight each day for at least 1 hr a week, or UVA/UVB producing lights in its enclosure. There temps are much cooler than most other Aussie pythons with a warm end at 27degrees celcius, and a cool end of 20 degrees celcius.
How often can I handle my python?
While they are young I would say no more than 15-20min, 4-5 times a week. Over handling them can stress them out to much and can result in feeding problems and death. As they get older they can be handled more frequently and for longer durations. After purchase of a python I try not to handle my pythons for 1-2weeks to let them settle into there new environments. After this time I feed them wait a few days after feeding and then start handling them. Avoid handling them during shedding as it is a difficult time for them, and it can split the shed making it more difficult to shed there entire slough complete.
My python won’t feed!
Most pythons will not feed when coming up to a shed, or when stressed. Firstly don’t stress, pythons can go for prolonged periods without feeding without any long term damage. An adult python can go for several months or more without feeding and younger pythons can easily go for 4-6 week’s. If they are due for a feed but refuse when offered wait another week and try again. If you notice they are coming up to shed it is likely that they will refuse food until the shed is complete. After they have feed they will be very hungry and will often take multiple rodents. If they have gone 2 weeks past there feeding due date and are not showing signs of shedding a few things to try are:
1. Braining: force a pin or sharp object through the skull of the rodent until juice comes out the snake will quickly pick up on the smell.
2. Hide and Wait: leave the rodents at the entry to there hide, close the enclosure and come back in the morning. Often the rodent will be gone in the morning.
3. Chicken Soup/Stock: dipping the rodent in chicken stock
4. Skink Scenting: putting a skink and the rodent in a container together so the rodent takes on the smell of a skink.
5. Check your temps
6. Try leaving it alone for a few days prior to feeding and just place it in the enclosure and leave it alone.
What can they eat? Size? Diversity?
Captive pythons are mainly feed a diet of frozen rodents, mice, rats, and rabbits being the most common. It is advised that frozen or pre killed prey be feed to your pythons as many accidents have happened where the mice or rats have killed or damaged the python. A python can eat prey up to 3 times the size of there head and it is advised to feed them prey approx. 2 times the size of there head. Part of a pythons growth requires that they eat this large prey so that they dislocate there jaws, and the skin at the front of the jaws learns to stretch. A young python should be feed approx every 7-14 days and as they get older it should become less frequent. Adult pythons should be feed approx every 3-4 weeks. Over feeding can lead to pin head syndrome. That is where there body continues to grow but the head does not. This can be very detrimental to there health and a sever diet would be recommended. Some people choose to give there pythons treats from time to time. Chickens, or pieces of chicken uncooked, fish, and raw meat, are the most common.
Shedding Problems.
Pythons will shed there skins on a regular basis, it is part of there growth cycle. There are many signs of shedding they are:
1 White eye’s
2 Flaky skin
3 Dry skin
4 Milky colour
5 Dull colouring on the skin.
Most of the time pythons will shed an entire skin complete. From time to time this will not occur and some level of assistance will be needed by the owner/carer. During times of shedding it is advisable that you raise the humidity within the enclosure to assist them. Sometimes dry flaky skin will remain attached you should not pull it off as you may do the python damage. Using a wet tea towel, let your python slither through the tea towel moistening the snake and allowing the python to remove its skin on the tea towel. If this is not working you can soak your python in Luke warm water. The water should only be slightly above room temperature. Your python might freak out a little at first but let it swim around a little and it should settle down. A plastic fish tank with a clip on lid is perfect. Do not leave your python alone in the water as there is always the possibility they might drown. Some pythons will enjoy it so much you will have problems removing them from the water. Many pythons will also put there heads under the water and search the bottom of there pool this is normal.
Sexing Pythons
Sexing Pythons should only be done by experienced breeders and vets. It is not something that should be attempted by recreational reptile keepers.
Co-Habitating
There is much debate on wether or not you can keep pythons together in an enclosure. For most of the Antaresia Species it is not a problem as long as they are of similar size, age, and species. Diamonds and Coastal pythons have also been known to co-habitate happily. There are always risks involved in keeping pythons together there are many story’s of pythons turning on cage mates and eating them. Keeping males together may also cause them to fight, and do damage to one another or kill each other. If you do choose to keep pythons together remember to feed them separately and clean them before putting them back into the same enclosure. If feed together they can start eating the same prey, and one may eat the other, it comes down to who get’s there jaws over the top of the other first and they will just continue to eat the other python. Don’t feed your pythons together.
Real Plants and leaves
Real tree limbs and rocks make good features and are good for your pythons climb on .They also provide abrasive surfaces to shed against and provide places to sleep, bask, and hide. Things like these need to be treated. Rocks can be baked in an oven to kill ticks, viruses, and bacteria found on these item. You can also treat them with a product known as F10 which is a designed product to treat bird and reptile items. If this is unavailable then a 1/10 mix of bleach can be used, and then rinsed clean with water.
Illness / Sickness / Health
There are 2 major diseases that are causing concern amongst the herp community they are OPMV and IBD. Here is a brief description of the symptoms would be. Respiratory problems laying on side/back panting having problems breathing, starry eyed look and convulsions. This is a deadly and highly contagious disease; any python found with these symptoms should be quarantined, taken to a vet and reported. Pneumonia is a more common problem amongst beginner reptile keepers. It is caused by stress, cold, and high humidity. Ticks and mites also can harm your pythons and would show up between there scales. A regular check of your python should find most ticks and mites.
Sub straight
There are many different flooring sub straights available. Here are a few of the Pros and cons of some of the more common types available.
Astroturf: Although it is good looking, it can be very sharp, and has the ability to cut the cloaca causing problems for your python. It also tends to come apart over time when regularly washed.
Newspaper: A very cheap and easy sub straight, easy to replace, lacks in the looks department. Good for large numbers of enclosures.
Chip Bark: Looks good but tends to smell. Have also seen a few pythons consume some of the bark which can give them a splinter in the gut or cloaca.
Gravel: Looks good easy to clean, can be eaten by your python though and block there digestive system.
Marine Carpet: Looks good, needs a bit of a scrub to get clean, but most users of marine carpet switch a new carpet for the old. Highly recommended, but can be costly.
Breeder’s choice/Kitty Litter: O.K looking very easy to clean and replace. The paper absorbs everything and should do no harm to the python if swallowed highly recommended.
I'm new, and wasn't sure about a lot of this stuff and now I'm feeling a bit more confident about getting my first snake 
