Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum

Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.
um i dont know but i use it alot yes.. haha your not the first to tell me that

and NO it was on only day heating for about a month before i got it and it shed ate and everything PERFECT so dont jump the gun and reckon you know it all! cause hate to tell ya mate you dont.. i was asking because its the first time she's ever done this and not ate even for the previous buyer(cause i got from a petshop)
Just a word of advice, you won't get far on this site if you talk to members like that. Yes he probably didn't say what he wanted in the right way but he is also right.
 
Last edited:
im sick of people thinking they can say all whatever they want to newbies! im only learning and im asking for advice and just what people think i should do im not asking to be told im doing things wrong! you dont like what i say dont look at my post or comment!
 
im sick of people thinking they can say all whatever they want to newbies! im only learning and im asking for advice and just what people think i should do im not asking to be told im doing things wrong! you dont like what i say dont look at my post or comment!

I dont say what ever I like!! What I have said has more bearing on what causing your snake not to eat than any other thing mentioned!
You want this snake to eat then provide it with the heat it needs because with out it there is no way it will want to eat!
 
so did it eat today ? if not then follow this ( i'd raised two albinos from hatchling to adults so i have a little bit of experience.)

1. put the snake on heat 24/7, one cool end and one hot end 32c - use a digital thermometer. put in a fresh water bowl.

2. stay away from the snake, don't touch it, don't even look at it, don't even change the water it will keep for a week, pretend you have no snake.

3. next monday feed it at night, put the mouse or rat in front of the snake, turn the ceiling light off then walk away for 1 hour.
 
well you did and can you explain how it will help and what temps would be good to achieve at night then and would i have an infared light in there for night heating cause they cant see it?

i just said what i said because all the people i know and the person i got this off use only day heating when there older then 2 or so months old and mine is..
 
so did it eat today ? if not then follow this ( i'd raised two albinos from hatchling to adults so i have a little bit of experience.)

1. put the snake on heat 24/7, one cool end and one hot end 32c - use a digital thermometer. put in a fresh water bowl.

2. stay away from the snake, don't touch it, don't even look at it, don't even change the water it will keep for a week, pretend you have no snake.

3. next monday feed it at night, put the mouse or rat in front of the snake, turn the ceiling light off then walk away for 1 hour.

:) someone nice(; haha sorry i had to:)

i dont know if she has because i was told not to check on her and when you say 24/7 heating do you mean for the whol time 32oC?
and thanks aye if she esnt eat tonight i will deffiantely do this!!
 
well you did and can you explain how it will help and what temps would be good to achieve at night then and would i have an infared light in there for night heating cause they cant see it?

i just said what i said because all the people i know and the person i got this off use only day heating when there older then 2 or so months old and mine is..
hnnn17 has some good advice there mate and as for heating I would use a heat mat cord under half of the click clack as belly heat is best for digestion.
 
you need a dimming thermostat and a ceramic lightbulb/heat emitter (ebay or petshop)

put the probe of the thermostat at the end where the light cage is and set it to 32c, use the thermometer to double check. when the snake wants heat it will go there and it will go to the cool end to cool down. leave this on 24/7.

not 2 or so months, they need 24/7 heat until they are yearling.
 
um i dont know but i use it alot yes.. haha your not the first to tell me that

and NO it was on only day heating for about a month before i got it and it shed ate and everything PERFECT so dont jump the gun and reckon you know it all! cause hate to tell ya mate you dont.. i was asking because its the first time she's ever done this and not ate even for the previous buyer(cause i got from a petshop)
people on here wonder why newbies get picked on!!!!! you are 15 kid and you own your first snake and are carrying on like this, you clearly have alot to learn about keeping reptiles and probably retiles in general. your attitude to people on here is gunna give you a bad name, if you knew so much you wouldn't be asking these questions that you should already know the answers to. So instead of shootin ya mouth off at people giving you the RIGHT advice maybe you should listen to them instead of thinking you know everything cos your mate told you
 
im sick of people thinking they can say all whatever they want to newbies! im only learning and im asking for advice and just what people think i should do im not asking to be told im doing things wrong! you dont like what i say dont look at my post or comment!

Dont ask advice then. What are we supposed to say if you doing the wrong thing.

Lets say you ask if cooling means putting the snake in the freezer nightly. Do we let you kill your snake instead of tell you your wrong at the risk of hurting your feelings. you really need to think about what you've written before you hit that send button IMO.
 
Thread closed for a cooling off period.

CantBeatAlbinos, you are getting advise from some folks who have been trying to get their facts straight to offer you the right advice. If you are not going to offer the full story, then please dont jump the gun and start accusing folks of things when they are trying to be helpful. You wont get far on this site and folks will be reluctant to help you with an attitude like that.
 
Hmmm... haha aye lol ???)

Despite this newcomer asking for assistance and largely rejecting everything that has been offered as help so far, has it occurred to him/her that (especially) small pythons are totally nocturnal. so they NEED to be warm in the evening. Despite the advice offered at the place of purchase (if it was a petshop, it mayhave lots of aquariums which keep the place warm at night) you need to listen to the advice offered here. You are asking for advice yet telling us you know what you're doing when people give you their time to help you...

Jamie
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Hmmm... haha aye lol imo...
Despite this newcomer asking for assistance and largely rejecting everything that has been offered as help so far, has it occurred to him/her that (especially) small pythons are totally nocturnal. so they NEED to be warm in the evening. Despite the advice offered at the place of purchase (if it was a petshop, it mayhave lots of aquariums which keep the place warm at night) you need to listen to the advice offered here. You are asking for advice yet telling us you know what you're doing when people give you their time to help you...

Jamie

yes i know they are nocturnal and nope, no fish at all he sell's reptiles and dogs.. and supplys obviously but yeah he sells monitors, blue tongues, eastern water dragons, snakes, turtles, dogs as said before, birds(eg.sun conures, cockateils, budgies, finches, sometimes has hopping mice and usually has spiny leaf insects, no fish ever:)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Mods why did you even bother reopening this thread??
I haven't seen such inane arguments from a noob since the Ianinoz Vs Crocdoc debacle.
 
N.B. This thread is now closed, but I offered Jamie the right of reply to which he has accepted.


and in the wild, how do they get night heating..? explain that to me mate



Pythoninfinite said:
Of course they don't get "night heating in the wild, but what they do get is a very large choice of where to spend their nights, and these will often be in sun-warmed rocks (which will retain heat long after the sun goes down, and remain warmer than ambient temperatures throughout the night), or snug in very temperature stable hollow logs which don't get very cold at any time. And whenthe season change is advanced enough to stop them eating, they just come out and bask during the day, and retreat into their over-winter accommodation, curl up very tightly (to retain heat for as long as possible) and remain so until the next sunny morning.

This behaviour works for the snakes in the wild because they have the ability to make infinite choices about how to manage their physiology - when they eat, how they manage their temperature-related activities, when they stop eating for the cool season - the list is as long as you want to make it. When we put them in a box in our homes, they are in a "twilight zone" with almost no choices about what will suit them best, they have to rely on our understanding of "best management practices" to survive and remain healthy. Enclosures in homes usually don't get cool enough to initiate true brumation through the winter, so the snakes are too cool to feed, but semi-active and using energy, while their immune system is compromised beacuse this is what happens during the cooler months. It's a perfect formula for starting off a respiratory infection which may eventually kill the animal.

The saftest thing to do with a growing animal is to acknowledge that we are keeping in a TOTALLY artificial environment, maintain temperatures suitable for feeding and full activity night & day, throughout the year, and to maintain a strong immune system and good growth. Once an animal has reached close to adult size (and this may be a very subjective assessment), you can then consider night cooling in winter, especially if you plan to breed.

Millions of people worldwide, amateurs and professionals have been keeping and breeding reptiles successfully for decades, and basic husbandry practices are generally well understood, probably the most important of which is correct management of temperatures which suit the animal. We will always see newcomers who think they know it all come on board and try to reinvent the wheel, this is generally because they have a poor understanding of reptile physiology.

Almost ALWAYS, if the snake is otherwise healthy, non-feeding is related to INCORRECT TEMPERATURE regimes, with the addition of stress caused by over-handling. Less often by poor or inappropriate housing. You are having trouble getting your animal to feed, you have been given a huge amout of info about what you MUST do to fix the problem. It's up to you if you take it on board. If you don't, your animal will have a short and difficult life.

Jamie
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top