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D3 is what they get from the sun. If you can give them that via there diet then you are replacing what they need from the sun. The d3 is what aids calcium absorption and so you can see where that comes in.

The argument that it is present in there natural environment and so they must need it in captivity is a weak one and is not 'research'. Should we also make sure they have there natural dose of parasites?

Thank you for that I thought that was right with the D3 need.

Highest air temperature, not surface temperature. If you go outside and take the temperature of the a bitumen road in summer I can guarantee you you that the temperature can get above 50 degrees easy.

Fair enough, I certainly was not saying they did not need it as I would not know, being a new keeper.



Ok so if I want to put a flood light into my cage you would recommend 100W, how do you recommend it is 'inserted' into the cage and is there any particular flood light you would recommend?
 
Geckophotographer, search "housing small goannas", it's a thread by spongebob (very reputable monitor keeper/breeder) showing how he houses young monitors in tubs with GU10 lights that reach 60-70c.

I've set up my ackies tubs like he has shown and they work great! I get a hotspot of 59-62c, and it cost me $16 for the light and $5 for the GU10 globe (20W).
 
I have read that thread, it is why I got a GU10 light but even right in front of that light it is reaching only 31 C, that is with a 50W bulb. I was a little confused as to why but that is what my thermometer is reading.
 
Yep,
And sorry if that sounded pointed. I just didn't agree with a one sided argument linking circumstantial 'evidence' and research in the same sentence. That is not the way it works.

I do agree though Reptilian that UV can only be beneficial and some of the healthiest animals I have seen have had access to natural sunlight. I just do not agree that its availability is necessary to have animals that are just as healthy.

Oh and Pete those are some beautiful gilleni enclosures!
 
dont forget the $30 uv Globe in the tub sam....

What $30 globe? As I said above, $5 GU10 globe -- light fitting and globe both from bunnings, and if my memory serves me correct there was actually 2 globes in the pack for $5. So all up I paid $21 for the light fitting and 2x globes...

Keep in mind, there is no lead connected to the light fitting, you have to get a sparky to wire it up.
 
Ok your the expert.
I'll tell my friends who have been keeping Monitors for 30 years + to change everything straight away.
Snakeluvver2, no l am not a expert in regards to keeping and breeding and husbandry of Monitors in captivity, l know from what l have seen out in the wild and from what l've been told by people who still or have worked in zoos throughout Australia, that do know alot about keeping and breedin all types of Reptiles for the last 20 or so years.

The highest recorded temperature in Australian history was 50.7 so why should these monitors be needing a temperature of between 60 and 70 degrees Celsius?
Geckphotographer, l did not say anything about what temperature they should be given in captivity, l was talking about UV and what they should not be denied or not given access to UVA & UVB in captivity.
As I understand it Vitamin D3 is required for the "digestion" or absorption of calcium but I may be wrong on that point.

So why/how have they been successfully raised/bred/kept without UV in captivity then, reptilian1993?
SamNabz,yes l know alot of Reptile keepers have had success in breeding Monitors in captivity without given them access to UVA & UVB, if you compared a captive breed Monitor with a wild caught monitor say Ridge-Tailed for example, you will notice the Monitors found out in the wild, a alot more healthy and far more better developed with their muscle bones.
 
I knew a thread couldn't get to three pages this fast without there being some controversy. Glad I read through it now :p.
Geck, mine uses a prewired ceramic fitting. I used aluminium flyscreen on top so the fitting just screws up against that with a couple of large washers to spread out the load a bit. Like someone said earlier, you don't need a cage ecause they seem to be smarter than snakes and if they touch it at all, it will only be once
 
I have read that thread, it is why I got a GU10 light but even right in front of that light it is reaching only 31 C, that is with a 50W bulb. I was a little confused as to why but that is what my thermometer is reading.

31c? That's very strange... I originally purchased the 35W globes and was getting 80-90c+, then got 20W globes (lowest wattage I could find) and I'm getting perfect temps.

Could it possibly be the way it is wired up? Or maybe the type/brand of globe you're using?
 
No problem, I just don't use smiley faces or crap like that any more. People mistake being direct for being rude.
It's good you are asking questions.

I'd probably go 150.
I use 100 for tubs.
Brands: I use the ones from bunnings cheap, $2 or something.

Inserted? I'm not too sure what you mean. But I got mine on ceramic or plastic light holders (all available from bunnings, $15 gets you the bulb plus the plastic holder that can be drilled into place and easily replaced). I place mine in the top corner facing down on several branches and rocks underneath. I also have hides in/around the hot spot.
 
I knew a thread couldn't get to three pages this fast without there being some controversy. Glad I read through it now :p.
Geck, mine uses a prewired ceramic fitting. I used aluminium flyscreen on top so the fitting just screws up against that with a couple of large washers to spread out the load a bit. Like someone said earlier, you don't need a cage ecause they seem to be smarter than snakes and if they touch it at all, it will only be once

Ok so what type of bulb do you have in your fitting? I am assuming it is just the regular kind of bayonet fitting most reptile lights fit in?
 
SamNabz,yes l know alot of Reptile keepers have had success in breeding Monitors in captivity without given them access to UVA & UVB, if you compared a captive breed Monitor with a wild caught monitor say Ridge-Tailed for example, you will notice the Monitors found out in the wild, a alot more healthy and far more better developed with their muscle bones.

I gotta' disagree with you there mate, I've seen plenty of good and bad CB and WC monitors.

Everyone I know who keeps monitors, does not use UV and they have some crackers.
 
What $30 globe? As I said above, $5 GU10 globe -- light fitting and globe both from bunnings, and if my memory serves me correct there was actually 2 globes in the pack for $5. So all up I paid $21 for the light fitting and 2x globes...

Keep in mind, there is no lead connected to the light fitting, you have to get a sparky to wire it up.

He was being a smat-bottom
 
Meh...

And Sax, it's not a good thread unless there is some controversy! What do we have a debate group for ;)
 
Ok so what type of bulb do you have in your fitting? I am assuming it is just the regular kind of bayonet fitting most reptile lights fit in?
It's an ES fitting because it's a proper ceramic reptile one (bought before I realised you don't need to have "Reptile One" written on everything for it to be adequate for use). You can Phillips lights from Big W for like $3 each

Haha good point Sam. I just don't know whether to be happy or sad that I can pick these things before even opening the thread any more
 
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Inserted? I'm not too sure what you mean. But I got mine on ceramic or plastic light holders (all available from bunnings, $15 gets you the bulb plus the plastic holder that can be drilled into place and easily replaced). I place mine in the top corner facing down on several branches and rocks underneath. I also have hides in/around the hot spot.
Would you happen to have any pics or be able to take some over the next couple days? I would be much obliged if you could.

I just want to keep these guys well, and with all the conflicting information and the light first suggested not doing what it should have I have gotten a little confused.

31c? That's very strange... I originally purchased the 35W globes and was getting 80-90c+, then got 20W globes (lowest wattage I could find) and I'm getting perfect temps.

Could it possibly be the way it is wired up? Or maybe the type/brand of globe you're using?
I am pretty sure it is not the wiring. The pack my dad bought "Turies Spotlight" "GU10 inc50w"

It looks very similar to the spotlight labelled RP71005-01 on this page Spotlights - Spotlight Fittings, Spotlight Globes, Spotlighting, Low Voltage Spotlights, 240V Spotlights

It's an ES fitting because it's a proper ceramic reptile one (bought before I realised you don't need to have "Reptile One" written on everything for it to be adequate for use). You can Phillips lights from Big W for like $3 each

Haha good point Sam. I just don't know whether to be happy or sad that I can pick these things before even opening the thread any more

Thanks for that, I am starting to feel like I might be getting useful information from at least a few people here now.
 
I just get cheap outdoor spotlight fittings you can buy from bunnings or a good hardware store (yes I did... hate monopolies haha). They are strong, easy to screw into the walls or roof of the enclosure and are to a degree weather resistant. Just picture what you see on the external walls of houses. That is all they are.
 
I gotta' disagree with you there mate, I've seen plenty of good and bad CB and WC monitors.

Everyone I know who keeps monitors, does not use UV and they have some crackers.

You are entitle to disagree with me mate, let me tell you one thing no matter how long or how many Reptiles you keep now or in the future, you including myself or any other Reptile keepers will never ever become a expert or know everything about them, whether its the same specie of what you have now or something different, you will learn something that you never knew or have known about previously, cause they all have different personalities just like us humans do.

l myself have been keeping and breeding Reptiles since 1975, l didn't get my very first Python until August 1989. and l'm still learning alot about their behaviour as l always will be now and into the future.
 
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Would you happen to have any pics or be able to take some over the next couple days? I would be much obliged if you could.

I just want to keep these guys well, and with all the conflicting information and the light first suggested not doing what it should have I have gotten a little confused.

No worries I'll try and get some pictures tonight.
 
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