D3 is what they get from the sun. If you can give them that via there diet then you are replacing what they need from the sun. The d3 is what aids calcium absorption and so you can see where that comes in.
The argument that it is present in there natural environment and so they must need it in captivity is a weak one and is not 'research'. Should we also make sure they have there natural dose of parasites?
Highest air temperature, not surface temperature. If you go outside and take the temperature of the a bitumen road in summer I can guarantee you you that the temperature can get above 50 degrees easy.
dont forget the $30 uv Globe in the tub sam....
Snakeluvver2, no l am not a expert in regards to keeping and breeding and husbandry of Monitors in captivity, l know from what l have seen out in the wild and from what l've been told by people who still or have worked in zoos throughout Australia, that do know alot about keeping and breedin all types of Reptiles for the last 20 or so years.Ok your the expert.
I'll tell my friends who have been keeping Monitors for 30 years + to change everything straight away.
The highest recorded temperature in Australian history was 50.7 so why should these monitors be needing a temperature of between 60 and 70 degrees Celsius?
Geckphotographer, l did not say anything about what temperature they should be given in captivity, l was talking about UV and what they should not be denied or not given access to UVA & UVB in captivity.
As I understand it Vitamin D3 is required for the "digestion" or absorption of calcium but I may be wrong on that point.
SamNabz,yes l know alot of Reptile keepers have had success in breeding Monitors in captivity without given them access to UVA & UVB, if you compared a captive breed Monitor with a wild caught monitor say Ridge-Tailed for example, you will notice the Monitors found out in the wild, a alot more healthy and far more better developed with their muscle bones.So why/how have they been successfully raised/bred/kept without UV in captivity then, reptilian1993?
I have read that thread, it is why I got a GU10 light but even right in front of that light it is reaching only 31 C, that is with a 50W bulb. I was a little confused as to why but that is what my thermometer is reading.
I knew a thread couldn't get to three pages this fast without there being some controversy. Glad I read through it now .
Geck, mine uses a prewired ceramic fitting. I used aluminium flyscreen on top so the fitting just screws up against that with a couple of large washers to spread out the load a bit. Like someone said earlier, you don't need a cage ecause they seem to be smarter than snakes and if they touch it at all, it will only be once
SamNabz,yes l know alot of Reptile keepers have had success in breeding Monitors in captivity without given them access to UVA & UVB, if you compared a captive breed Monitor with a wild caught monitor say Ridge-Tailed for example, you will notice the Monitors found out in the wild, a alot more healthy and far more better developed with their muscle bones.
What $30 globe? As I said above, $5 GU10 globe -- light fitting and globe both from bunnings, and if my memory serves me correct there was actually 2 globes in the pack for $5. So all up I paid $21 for the light fitting and 2x globes...
Keep in mind, there is no lead connected to the light fitting, you have to get a sparky to wire it up.
It's an ES fitting because it's a proper ceramic reptile one (bought before I realised you don't need to have "Reptile One" written on everything for it to be adequate for use). You can Phillips lights from Big W for like $3 eachOk so what type of bulb do you have in your fitting? I am assuming it is just the regular kind of bayonet fitting most reptile lights fit in?
Would you happen to have any pics or be able to take some over the next couple days? I would be much obliged if you could.Inserted? I'm not too sure what you mean. But I got mine on ceramic or plastic light holders (all available from bunnings, $15 gets you the bulb plus the plastic holder that can be drilled into place and easily replaced). I place mine in the top corner facing down on several branches and rocks underneath. I also have hides in/around the hot spot.
I am pretty sure it is not the wiring. The pack my dad bought "Turies Spotlight" "GU10 inc50w"31c? That's very strange... I originally purchased the 35W globes and was getting 80-90c+, then got 20W globes (lowest wattage I could find) and I'm getting perfect temps.
Could it possibly be the way it is wired up? Or maybe the type/brand of globe you're using?
It's an ES fitting because it's a proper ceramic reptile one (bought before I realised you don't need to have "Reptile One" written on everything for it to be adequate for use). You can Phillips lights from Big W for like $3 each
Haha good point Sam. I just don't know whether to be happy or sad that I can pick these things before even opening the thread any more
I gotta' disagree with you there mate, I've seen plenty of good and bad CB and WC monitors.
Everyone I know who keeps monitors, does not use UV and they have some crackers.
Would you happen to have any pics or be able to take some over the next couple days? I would be much obliged if you could.
I just want to keep these guys well, and with all the conflicting information and the light first suggested not doing what it should have I have gotten a little confused.
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