frogmancorey56
Active Member
thank you finally a straight answer
cheers all
cheers all
Urgent Ridge Tailed Monitor Help!!!!
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- varanus acanthurus
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frogmancorey56
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ok another question
can it be prevented or treated by giving him a calcum supplement and getting asome uv into him.
i really love him and my mum just cant afford it atm
can it be prevented or treated by giving him a calcum supplement and getting asome uv into him.
i really love him and my mum just cant afford it atm
frogmancorey56
Active Member
ill take some now
and post em in a sec
and post em in a sec
did the lumps come up quickly or slowly? Have you been providing supplements (e.g. calcium), what have you been feeding? do you have a strong source of UVB, or at least take him outside regularly for sunlight? Did the lumps all come up at the same time, or did one come up, then the next etc?
frogmancorey56
Active Member
frogmancorey56
Active Member
ok they came up in a matter of days
they all came at once
this is where i went wrong i didnt supply calcium supplements and or uv except for the occational wander outside.
they all came at once
this is where i went wrong i didnt supply calcium supplements and or uv except for the occational wander outside.
frogmancorey56
Active Member
oh and i feed him minced meat, woodies and the occational hopper
Based on the history (no calcium supplements, and essentially no UV) it would suggest metabolic bone disease/secondary nutritional hyperparathyroidism.
however, I wouldn't think the lumps would come up so rapidly if this were the case. Basically when a rapidly growing reptile has insufficient calcium, they will draw it out of their skeleton (e.g. jaw, limbs) to support normal bodily functions (Calcium is required for muscle contractions (amongst other things), including the heart- zero calcium = dead animal). Because there is less calcium/mineralisation of the skeleton, the body replaces this with fibrous tissue, which is less dense than bone, and the large quantities of fibrous tissue forms the hard masses. Now, I would imagine this would take more than a few days to turn up, as the fibrocytes (cells that produce fibrous tissue) would take longer than this to produce that much fibrous tissue. This definitely didn't occur over a week/a number of weeks?
Feel free to correct me... but it looks and sounds like MBD, except for the timeframe- its the only bit that doesn't make sense to me.
if it is in fact MBD, based on the size of the lumps, its fairly advanced, and would do best with veterinary treatment to rapidly replenish the calcium. So I would STRONGLY advise you to try your best to seek veterinary attention, whether you pay it over time or whatever- consult the veterinarian/clinic to see how they can help. In the mean time- buy a 10.0 UVB bulb, and rig it up ASAP. Take him outside for regular sunlight (but ensure he does not overheat) and get lots of calcium supplements into him.
Again-anyone- feel free to correct me.
however, I wouldn't think the lumps would come up so rapidly if this were the case. Basically when a rapidly growing reptile has insufficient calcium, they will draw it out of their skeleton (e.g. jaw, limbs) to support normal bodily functions (Calcium is required for muscle contractions (amongst other things), including the heart- zero calcium = dead animal). Because there is less calcium/mineralisation of the skeleton, the body replaces this with fibrous tissue, which is less dense than bone, and the large quantities of fibrous tissue forms the hard masses. Now, I would imagine this would take more than a few days to turn up, as the fibrocytes (cells that produce fibrous tissue) would take longer than this to produce that much fibrous tissue. This definitely didn't occur over a week/a number of weeks?
Feel free to correct me... but it looks and sounds like MBD, except for the timeframe- its the only bit that doesn't make sense to me.
if it is in fact MBD, based on the size of the lumps, its fairly advanced, and would do best with veterinary treatment to rapidly replenish the calcium. So I would STRONGLY advise you to try your best to seek veterinary attention, whether you pay it over time or whatever- consult the veterinarian/clinic to see how they can help. In the mean time- buy a 10.0 UVB bulb, and rig it up ASAP. Take him outside for regular sunlight (but ensure he does not overheat) and get lots of calcium supplements into him.
Again-anyone- feel free to correct me.
frogmancorey56
Active Member
thank you i bought some calcium supplement yestertday and fed hik some mince meat and mixed it with water and put it on his lips.
more to the point they were to small to notice untill a few days ago. I was at my dads and my mother was in care of him and she doesnt really look at him often just feeds him when he is awake. bout the uvb i really cant even get one of them
we are in a difficult spot and my mother cant even loan me that.
is puting him in sun 4 a cuple of hrs every day sufficient for that????
more to the point they were to small to notice untill a few days ago. I was at my dads and my mother was in care of him and she doesnt really look at him often just feeds him when he is awake. bout the uvb i really cant even get one of them
we are in a difficult spot and my mother cant even loan me that.
is puting him in sun 4 a cuple of hrs every day sufficient for that????
That diet (to me) sounds as though it would be far too low in calcium (very little in the minced meat and woodies) and the only main source he is getting is from the occasional hopper. Start getting a good calcium supplement into him and lots of UVB.
Edit: Beware about him overheating! I used to take my turtle outdoors for 30mins at a time, though he also had a 10.0UVB to bask under in his tank anyway. Perhaps take him out three times daily, for about 30mins each time.
A UVB tube will set you back about $40, depending on the size/type you get, and will last for 6months. you really should do your best to invest in one, or you'll be extremely inconvenienced taking him out daily for so long (don't leave him in the sun alone- you have to stay with him). Particularly with monitors, I would imagine they'd be very high UV requiring species
frogmancorey56
Active Member
so will that be able to treat him or is vet def needed.
and what about leaving him for hrs but with shade as well, half sun half shade and a water dish.
he doesnt come out till im at school and is only like 2hrs once i get home before he goes to sleep in his burow agen
and what about leaving him for hrs but with shade as well, half sun half shade and a water dish.
he doesnt come out till im at school and is only like 2hrs once i get home before he goes to sleep in his burow agen
As long has he won't overheat, and is an escape proof enclosure of some kind, by all means. People keep monitors outdoors without any issues, the main problem is when someone takes their pet outside in a tub, puts them in full sun and leaves them there for hours....
I would still recommend a veterinarian, personally- it honestly shouldn't cost that much (though yes I know, when your broke every bit counts) and like others and myself have said, most clinics will quite happily do up a payment plan for you. Most veterinarians are in this industry because they love animals, and want to help (at least, thats why I'm studying it- and I assure you, its a lot of work, so if you didn't really love what you were doing, you'd drop out).
The stuff I've mentioned above should definitely be part of the treatment- ideally the other part is with the veterinarian, most probably via a (or multiple) calcium injections.
I would still recommend a veterinarian, personally- it honestly shouldn't cost that much (though yes I know, when your broke every bit counts) and like others and myself have said, most clinics will quite happily do up a payment plan for you. Most veterinarians are in this industry because they love animals, and want to help (at least, thats why I'm studying it- and I assure you, its a lot of work, so if you didn't really love what you were doing, you'd drop out).
The stuff I've mentioned above should definitely be part of the treatment- ideally the other part is with the veterinarian, most probably via a (or multiple) calcium injections.
frogmancorey56
Active Member
thank you kitah you are very helpful.
i hate it that you find so much diff info online
i hate it that you find so much diff info online
frogmancorey56
Active Member
and also i would be happy to go but my mum refuses to cause its my sis bday
than a party for her ist bday
then easter
and we already broke atm cause of personal stuff
anyway cheers
will call a vet for advice tonight
than a party for her ist bday
then easter
and we already broke atm cause of personal stuff
anyway cheers
will call a vet for advice tonight
Your welcome. Some others may be able to come on and help as well, and may be able to recommend other things you can do.
Edit: Just an idea- you could always try calling the australian wildlife hospital, or currumbin wildlife hospital- both places may be able to offer some advice. Dr. Stacey from the Australian Wildlife hopsital is fantastic- I worked with him for a few days, and he loves both reptiles and birds. When I was there, he specifically told me that he loves it when people ask questions, and that if he's happy for people to ring and ask for help/advice. So maybe try that option.
Goodluck
Edit: Just an idea- you could always try calling the australian wildlife hospital, or currumbin wildlife hospital- both places may be able to offer some advice. Dr. Stacey from the Australian Wildlife hopsital is fantastic- I worked with him for a few days, and he loves both reptiles and birds. When I was there, he specifically told me that he loves it when people ask questions, and that if he's happy for people to ring and ask for help/advice. So maybe try that option.
Goodluck
frogmancorey56
Active Member
yes any other suggestions kitahs info didnt contain would be highly appreciated
Frogmancorey - Firstly, you MUST take this animal to the Vet...
...I appreciate money is tight, and I don't mean to preach at you, but your choice to take this animal into your care leaves you with a responsibility to provide it with veterinary assistance where required. Most Vets are very understanding and capable of working SOMETHING out with you. This is DEFINATELY a MUST - particularly as your husbandry sounds lacking, indicating the problem has likely been caused by you.
Now, I have kept Ackies and other small monitors for some time, and have NEVER kept them under UV, and I can say without doubt that MANY keepers around the world successfully do the same. In saying that, they are ALWAYS supplied with Calcium and Vitamin supplementation (for your future information, all captive lizards should be offered supplements in their food). I have never had a problem like this and as such my advice is limited...
...in saying that, 'Keeping and Breeding Australian Lizards' (edited by Mike Swan) is an extremely comprehensive book on the captive care of all types of Australian lizard. Page 60, covering MBD, has a photograph of an Ackie with a similar looking swelling in the right foreleg - the caption reads "...swollen leg due to fibrosis and demineralization of the bones in the foreleg as a result of nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism (MBD)."
If MBD is the cause of these issues in your animal (I am unsure if MBD would also show up as a swollen neck) then the treatment must be administered by a Vet as you would likely be looking at fractures to the bones that will need splinting and either bandaging or casting. The animal will also then need to be placed on a program of calcium and vitamin D3 (these are the major supplements that should be given with feeds to prevent MBD)
In saying this, there is little point in repairing the symptoms if the underlying cause is not remedied - the underlying cause in this being husbandry.
Food MUST be dusted with a Calcium/Vitamin D3 supplement - in this case I would CERTAINLY add a UVB source - and your temperatures must be adequate (I am unsure if you have posted them yet but a 65* basking site is necessary as well as a good gradient)
Please let us know how this proceeds...
...I appreciate money is tight, and I don't mean to preach at you, but your choice to take this animal into your care leaves you with a responsibility to provide it with veterinary assistance where required. Most Vets are very understanding and capable of working SOMETHING out with you. This is DEFINATELY a MUST - particularly as your husbandry sounds lacking, indicating the problem has likely been caused by you.
Now, I have kept Ackies and other small monitors for some time, and have NEVER kept them under UV, and I can say without doubt that MANY keepers around the world successfully do the same. In saying that, they are ALWAYS supplied with Calcium and Vitamin supplementation (for your future information, all captive lizards should be offered supplements in their food). I have never had a problem like this and as such my advice is limited...
...in saying that, 'Keeping and Breeding Australian Lizards' (edited by Mike Swan) is an extremely comprehensive book on the captive care of all types of Australian lizard. Page 60, covering MBD, has a photograph of an Ackie with a similar looking swelling in the right foreleg - the caption reads "...swollen leg due to fibrosis and demineralization of the bones in the foreleg as a result of nutritional secondary hyperparathyroidism (MBD)."
If MBD is the cause of these issues in your animal (I am unsure if MBD would also show up as a swollen neck) then the treatment must be administered by a Vet as you would likely be looking at fractures to the bones that will need splinting and either bandaging or casting. The animal will also then need to be placed on a program of calcium and vitamin D3 (these are the major supplements that should be given with feeds to prevent MBD)
In saying this, there is little point in repairing the symptoms if the underlying cause is not remedied - the underlying cause in this being husbandry.
Food MUST be dusted with a Calcium/Vitamin D3 supplement - in this case I would CERTAINLY add a UVB source - and your temperatures must be adequate (I am unsure if you have posted them yet but a 65* basking site is necessary as well as a good gradient)
Please let us know how this proceeds...
Last edited:
Kitah - Would prove VERY difficult to overheat an Ackie... 
An old enclosure of mine used to have a basking site that could reach over 85* on those stupid hot snaps in Summer - the Ackies would sit up there happily before cruising around for a while - then they'd bask again and cruise again!
An old enclosure of mine used to have a basking site that could reach over 85* on those stupid hot snaps in Summer - the Ackies would sit up there happily before cruising around for a while - then they'd bask again and cruise again!
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