what is the best way to tame a snake ???

[Vincentpyle]

each snake is different i have a bullsnake depending what mood she is in she'll strike at my face or what ever she can takes time she isnt as snappy as she was but i think she is as docile as she is gonna get lol

 

[thomasssss]

She's about 80 cm long and according to the breeder about 18 months old I've fed her every 6-7 days an adult mouse she is not defensive at all and once she let's go is fine to handle every now and then she'll bite and hold twice but normally realises once she's off but then still coils tight like she doesn't want to let her massive juicy meal get away lol iv just been persisting with washing my hands then using f10 then grabbing her out with a teatowel before I move to just my hands she even tries to eat the teatowel lol

they sound like food bites , double check his getting the right sort of feed but watch not to go over board with feeding(dont want a fat woma) just to try to stop this attitude he has some womas are a little bit like this , since my male has grown up a bit his started to do a very similar thing but his fed right , he will do it the day after a feed he just thinks food is on offer all the time

mine are both over 90cm and over 300g at 12 months and have just been changed over to week old quail from rats , just review your feeding regime , i go about 20%of body weight every 10days now there older

some just grow faster than others as well , my female had massive growth spurts when she was a hatchy and shedded every 2 feeds about 5 times in a row then did it again a little later

it helps to try to learn how to read your animal , with my male i know if he is in feed mode because he does this thing with his head not really then head bob but he sort of flicks it forwards and slightly up and down whilst coming towards me when the doors opened , i just let him make his own way out of the enclosure then wait a while for him to realise theres no food and his fine after that but if i try to grab him to early he will latch on

 

[Ramsayi]

A HUGE misconception that jungles are snappier than other snakes. (Ever tried looking after a scrubby!?)

Scrubbies are in a different category all together and are not commonly kept anyway.


Jungles are snappier than other carpets there is no doubt about that.They are much more highly strung than other types especially hatchies/juvs but most tend to grow out of it once they get a bit of size about them.

 

[Gruni]

Good call Thomasssss, if it is just a strong feed response after making sure he's on the right size feed then either letting him venture out or using a hook to let him know that food isn't on offer he may well settle down.

 

[reb01]

Scrubbies are in a different category all together and are not commonly kept anyway. Jungles are snappier than other carpets there is no doubt about that.They are much more highly strung than other types especially hatchies/juvs but most tend to grow out of it once they get a bit of size about them.

Totally agree Ramsayi,having owned alot of different carpets,aspidities and Water pythons etc Jungles are alot more snappier,ive got 2 here a 3yr old male and a 2yr old female and 95% of the time i get tagged everytime i open there cage..

 

[travo]

simple way to tame a snake is spend time with the snake let it get used to your scent and feel it will bite you but you must persist snakes can sense fear just like dogs so if you approach it scared it will sense it and strike approach it confidently.. dont use gloves or a hook this is not a good thing .. make sure temperature and everything is right in the enclosure plenty of hidy holes and what not being a jungle it will tend to be snappy they usually are but confident handling is the best thing if it bites you dont pull away or put it back handle it a bit longer if you dont it will think if it bites you it will get to go back into its enclosure .. hope this helps ps im not a expert but have had the same problem with a bredli it is fine now after a month

 

[thomasssss]

approach it confidently.. dont use gloves or a hook this is not a good thing .

whilst i agree with everything else you said this is nonsense , hooks have their place and are a great little tool if used properly , i use one on my very food orientated woma just to lift him up and let him know im coming , if i just grab him with my hands he tends to think im food and has a go

actually just re read your post and i dont agree with the rest either , the part about continuing to handle the hatchie after it bites you , why do people think this is a good idea there biting you because there either hungry or scarred hungry is easy sorted but i don't agree with continuing to stress out the animal after its bitten you , thats unnecessary stress your forcing on the animal for your own pleasure , its flight instinct didnt work so now its trying its only other option , fight , by not giving up you could end up making it terrified of this creature that just wont give up no matter what it tries

 

[jbest]

Good call Thomasssss, if it is just a strong feed response after making sure he's on the right size feed then either letting him venture out or using a hook to let him know that food isn't on offer he may well settle down.

thanks good advice gruni and thomas i weighed her for her feed today and she is 160 grams to be exact and i fed her 1 adult mouse and one weaner mouse (only coz iv got some weaners to get rid of now) and the feed weighed up to 31grams which is pretty much spot on 20%. I would generally give her a feed this size once a week. Do you think this is ok I definately wont want to overfeed, i have read plenty about the problems with womas and fatty liver disease. I dont have a hook but im thinking now it might be worth investing in one with this woma. The other thing is i have been feeding outside of the enclosure just because im using a coir peat substrate and am worried she would eat it with the food and possibly have problems. So there is no way for her to tell when is feeding time and when is not so shes definately a bite first ask questions later sorta girl lol

 

[MyMitchie]

I just purchased a beautiful Jungle yesterday and whilst viewing her she just clung onto me tightly. She has had bare minimum handling and didn't bite at all. I think snakes have a 6th sense to sense fear! be bold and brave! Goodluck.

 

[reb01]

I just purchased a beautiful Jungle yesterday and whilst viewing her she just clung onto me tightly. She has had bare minimum handling and didn't bite at all. I think snakes have a 6th sense to sense fear! be bold and brave! Goodluck.

Ive owned alot of snakes over 20+ years some snakes are just biters...be bold and brave..well ive got a couple jungles here,good luck opening the cage without being tagged...

 

[MyMitchie]

By being bold and brave I meant be prepared for being tagged
Edit: I wasn't meaning she didn't bite because I wasn't scared sorry! was merely pointing out my experience with a jungle so far. Sorry for the confusion!

 

[Gruni]

jbest, Im not sure about with our Woma but for my Mac 2 large adult mice will do her for two weeks but I'll defer to the Woma owners on that one.

 

[thomasssss]

thanks good advice gruni and thomas i weighed her for her feed today and she is 160 grams to be exact and i fed her 1 adult mouse and one weaner mouse (only coz iv got some weaners to get rid of now) and the feed weighed up to 31grams which is pretty much spot on 20%. I would generally give her a feed this size once a week. Do you think this is ok I definately wont want to overfeed, i have read plenty about the problems with womas and fatty liver disease. I dont have a hook but im thinking now it might be worth investing in one with this woma. The other thing is i have been feeding outside of the enclosure just because im using a coir peat substrate and am worried she would eat it with the food and possibly have problems. So there is no way for her to tell when is feeding time and when is not so shes definately a bite first ask questions later sorta girl lol

sound about right mate , as i said some grow slower than others just keep up what your doing and upsize when needed , as for the feeding out of the enclosure thing theres good arguments on both sides

i do it with my womas for the evact same reason as you , i keep them on loose substraight and when their fed on it they drag it around and make a mess so even using something to feed them on in the enclosure (like a plate ) is sort of a hassle

imo if the animal is easily moved from the feeding tub to the enclosure after a feed with out freaking out and stressing than theres no real problem with it , if they do though than id stop it as there is a risk of regurgitation

i also dont think that it causes them to associate handling with feeding , if thats the case than the same could be said about feeding in the enclosure and the doors being opened being associated with feeding

 

[Gruni]

How often would you be feeding it Thomas? I wouldn't think it needs weekly feeds surely?

 

[jbest]

How often would you be feeding it Thomas? I wouldn't think it needs weekly feeds surely?

you can see her frantically roaming around the enclosure looking very hungry on day 5 or 6 after a feed. i see what they mean about womas appetites and not giving into there behaviour

 

[KRONYK94]

simply endless handling in short bursts very often dude don't drag it out to long or then they get restless like we do..

 

[thomasssss]

How often would you be feeding it Thomas? I wouldn't think it needs weekly feeds surely?

well at 18months old 80cm long and 160grams it seems like it could do with slightly more frequent feedings over summer just to get it up to a bit more size , as a comparison mine are both around 12 months old ,just over 300g and over 90cm , not saying his woma is under size or anything but the breeders probably just kept feeding down a bit so it didnt grow like a weed before they could move it on as i understand jbest has just got the animal?

i personally like to mix mine up a bit , so they might get fed 10days apart for a while then wait a few weeks fasting then they might get a feed 10days later another than maybe another 6days or so after , works for me

the fatty liver problem is more of a problem with larger rats (after 150 200g but i dont plan to go over 100g) although the way it is worded in the sxr article makes it seem as though it could of been contributed to by the speed they where grown up , as well as the fatty rodents

it makes sense really if 200g rats and over are bad for an adult because of the fat content than wouldn't a constant feeding regime of say 50g rats be just as bad for a 200g hatchy , im far from an expert on this but id prefer to err on the side of caution

(gruni reading my posts must be a killer for you :evil:, without a single fullstop , capitals letters are lacking a bit

 

[Gruni]

I did the same with Skittles when I first got her she got fed anywhere between 7, 10 and 14 days but now that she is the size she is I just feed her every two weeks +/- a day or so. One shed cycle the way it worked out she wasn't fed for 3 1/2 weeks and she was so hungry she absolutely smashed the food before it really cleared the lip of the tank. :lol:

As for the grammar and stuff I usually just smile and ignore it, just some days I get in a mood and think stuff it. Bug bears for me are should 'of' instead of should've or should have and the constant wrong there/their/they're and no/know. I noticed a certain 13 year old stuffs up dose/does all the time and THAT is starting to become a new bug for me.

 

[wylie88]

I have two hatchie jungles and when I first got them they were the snappiest snake I'd ever encountered repeatably tagging anything and everything...even thin air. After a settling period I began handling them by hooking them out and just sitting with the snake still coiled on the end of the hook for about 5 minutes, until the snakes relaxed a little. I would then slide my hand up the hook slowly until I was eventually touching the snake, It would then slowly start coming onto my hand and I would then slowly slide them of the hook and onto my hand. Once the snake relaxed a little and start moving around I would place one hand under the other (never grabbing the snake) letting them move over my hands. Although a time consuming method it resulted in very few if any tags, I never used gloves and as I never acted in a threatening way ie, grabbing, coming from above the snake or forcing it to be held before they were ready I stopped getting tagged. A little over a month later they handle great. I always pay attention to my snakes and on the days they are particularly nervous I wont get them out, I never handle them longer then 15/20 minutes and put them back once they start showing signs of stress.

 

[Gruni]

thanks good advice gruni and thomas i weighed her for her feed today and she is 160 grams to be exact and i fed her 1 adult mouse and one weaner mouse (only coz iv got some weaners to get rid of now) and the feed weighed up to 31grams which is pretty much spot on 20%.

I had Skittles out since she shed recently and had her feed, so while I had her out I decided to weigh her. She is around the 120cm and 353gr. I have to admit I have no idea what weight her food is as I have never bothered to weigh it. Although given the weight difference I'd say you're doing fine on the feed size you have started giving yours.