Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum

Help Support Aussie Pythons & Snakes Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Status
Not open for further replies.
I might try that and see how that works. I may just get some of that stuff that they make eskies out of, which is sold in big thick sheets, around an inch thick and come in various dimensions. I will have to build some sort of box out of the panels which may be tricky getting the cords into and out of, but shouldn't be a real challenge.

Get some coreflute , it is very cheap , easy to cut etc and holds heat well , it comes in various thicknesses too, try Mr Ply and Wood type stores .
 
Ok , lets TRY and sort this out once and for all cause I am sick of reading your crap ...
Day temps , hot end / cold end ?
Night temps , hot end / cold end ?
How many hours a day do you heat them ?
Please post pics of your set up ( as I have heard you keep your snake in full pesrpex boxes , not proper racks )
How often are you handling them ?
Have you tried other rodents , not ones you kill your self ?
Any other details you have will be good ...

You claim that your temps are perfect , yet you post this ""I will have to measure that with a thermometer. I have no idea what the minimum temp gets down to, especially very early morning. Maybe that could be the problem. I will have to check it out. ""
It Stands to reason if you have no idea on this part of your husbandry then you may not have an idea on other parts of it too.

Day temps, hot end around 33-34 degrees, cold end, around 24 degrees. I use an IR gun thermometer, which gives reasonably accurate temps.
Night temps, hot end around 33-34 degrees, cold end, could be anywhere from 10 to 24 degrees depending ambient temps, according to what Ramsayi has stated. I have not measured what the temps are at night, which could be the problem.

I have only rarely handled them, about maybe once a fortnight, if that.

I heat them 24/7, the thermostat controls the hot end and adjusts temps automatically, hot end should be between 32 and 34 degrees.

I do not keep my snakes in perspex boxes any more. That was so 2010, a long time ago. I learned my lesson.
My set up is this: Reptile Racks Australia/FB17

I have used 2 sources of rodents, one from a very reputable source here on the coast, and some rats that I actually bred myself earlier in the year.
 
Im just curious why you just place the food items in the enclosure, is this a technique commonly used when feeding womas?

The reason I ask is with my snakes I always get a better response from offering by the tail or with tongs

Day temps, hot end around 33-34 degrees, cold end, around 24 degrees. I use an IR gun thermometer, which gives reasonably accurate temps.
Night temps, hot end around 33-34 degrees, cold end, could be anywhere from 10 to 24 degrees depending ambient temps, according to what Ramsayi has stated. I have not measured what the temps are at night, which could be the problem.

I have only rarely handled them, about maybe once a fortnight, if that.

I heat them 24/7, the thermostat controls the hot end and adjusts temps automatically, hot end should be between 32 and 34 degrees.

I do not keep my snakes in perspex boxes any more. That was so 2010, a long time ago. I learned my lesson.
My set up is this: Reptile Racks Australia/FB17

I have used 2 sources of rodents, one from a very reputable source here on the coast, and some rats that I actually bred myself earlier in the year.

I should point out the pet shop that you asked me to get the live ones for you from are the only that sell live feeders in the area, that doesn't exactly make them reputable
 
Day temps, hot end around 33-34 degrees, cold end, around 24 degrees. I use an IR gun thermometer, which gives reasonably accurate temps.
Night temps, hot end around 33-34 degrees, cold end, could be anywhere from 10 to 24 degrees depending ambient temps, according to what Ramsayi has stated. I have not measured what the temps are at night, which could be the problem.

I have only rarely handled them, about maybe once a fortnight, if that.

I heat them 24/7, the thermostat controls the hot end and adjusts temps automatically, hot end should be between 32 and 34 degrees.

I do not keep my snakes in perspex boxes any more. That was so 2010, a long time ago. I learned my lesson.
My set up is this: Reptile Racks Australia/FB17

I have used 2 sources of rodents, one from a very reputable source here on the coast, and some rats that I actually bred myself earlier in the year.

Can you please post an actual picture of YOUR set up , not a link to a website.
 
UPDATE: I will get some pics when my camera is charged. The battery is flat, so I will have to charge it. I will have to use my old macbook to retreive the photos due to silly driver s/ware not working on wndows 7.

Brett, my set up looks exactly the same as on that website, except it's 4 levels instead of 7, in a single stack. The distinction is that I have a towel over the front of the rack so that the snakes can't see out through the little clear panels...the idea, of course, is to reduce stress.

On the inside of each tub is a 3 sheets of newspaper on the floor, about 2 inches of breeder's choice on top of that, and of course, the water bowl on the cool end.

I will need to get a more up-to-date camera, the old Canon I have only works on my old macbook ;)
 
Last edited:
Mine had one or two feeds when I got them (direct siblings to yours) and powered along, yours were 600grams at 6months they were also powering along, theres nothign wrong with the animals (but I don't need to tell you that again), 2inches of breeders choice, can they feel the heat on top of that?

tn_IMG_0009-1.jpg
 
Very nice animal.

No, there were no problems with the animals when I got them. Perhaps the trauma of the train trip may have stressed the female, but the male was eating fine until November.

I think it could be temps, not sure with the female.
 
I understand the idea of having racks for breeding etc. But maybe by covering the front windows over with a towel, you are making it constantly dark and they maybe need some light to adjust their body clocks to a feeding time. Unless its a highly travelled area where there is constantly people walking by, why do you need to put a towel across the front?
 
A train trip in a bucket wouldnt stress them so much as to stop it feeding, it has to be either being continual stressed or other husbandry issue.
 
I understand the idea of having racks for breeding etc. But maybe by covering the front windows over with a towel, you are making it constantly dark and they maybe need some light to adjust their body clocks to a feeding time. Unless its a highly travelled area where there is constantly people walking by, why do you need to put a towel across the front?

The snakes are in the same room as I am, so I do this as a precaution. I might remove the towel and see if this makes any difference.
 
Where abouts are you checking the temps , inside of the tub or on the heat panel / cord ?
If inside is that under the 50mm of breeders choice or on top of it ?
How are you offering the food , is it still warm ?
 
Where abouts are you checking the temps , inside of the tub or on the heat panel / cord ?
If inside is that under the 50mm of breeders choice or on top of it ?
How are you offering the food , is it still warm ?

I checked the temps inside the tub, and on top of the substrate as the snake gets it's temperatures from the substrate and ambient temperatures.
The food I offered today was still warm as it was freshly killed.
 
I checked the temps inside the tub, and on top of the substrate as the snake gets it's temperatures from the substrate and ambient temperatures.
The food I offered today was still warm as it was freshly killed.

Remove the breeders choice , let them get direct heat from the heat source , make sure the bottom of the tub is 31-33 degrees , not the paper etc .
 
Okay, am I missing something, Womas are from desert country, gets pretty cold out there.
Maybe you need a substrate they can burrow in so they can regulate their temps a bit themselves.
This isn't advice as I don't keep womas, but just a query really for some who knows?
 
Also to add to what Brett and Ramsayi said what sort of thermostat are you running? An on/off type? That combined with early morning temps doesn't really help the cause imo :)
 
Also to add to what Brett and Ramsayi said what sort of thermostat are you running? An on/off type? That combined with early morning temps doesn't really help the cause imo :)

I'm using a Habistat thermostat, this type is a proportional control thermostat, so it's not your typical On/Off type thermostat. It's one of the more expensive models, and is a very reputable brand.
 
i feed mine chicken necks every now and ten they love them a mouse sounds very small for a near adult womb mine is eating small rats and she's not adult size yet
 
Removed the mouse from the small female's tub this morning after waking up. T'was a failure. Felt like stomping on the mouse.

Next attempt will be in 3 weeks.

I will wait until the large female and the male have completed their shedding before I change the bedding, which I plan to do, and replace it with 5 sheets of newspaper.

How to stop snakes from tipping over their damned water bowls! This has been a problem since the get go. I have thought about drilling a small 4mm hole the side of each tub where the cool end is, and a 4mm hole at the top of a plastic bowl/cup and use a 4mm nylon bolt and suitable nut to keep them fastened to the enclosure so they cannot possibly be tipped over. I will do this soon, as I deem it is necessary, womas don't like damp or wet conditions, and tipping water bowls over when all you have is newspaper bedding is a sure way to get things at least damp if not soaking wet.

I feel this should work, and removing the breeder's choice will give the snakes better access to the floor and thus improved temps.

Not sure if it will ever get them to eat again, my fingers are definitely not crossed, it's been such a long time that I'm wondering if it will make any difference to their appetites, but maybe it will work, so I will try it anyway.
 
Last edited:
why not just use a heavier bowl for water? bolting the bowls onto the side of the enclosure seems abit extreme, esp when changing the water? cheap ceramic pet bowls have served me very well.
 
Give them away to someone before you kill them/let them die. It's not the snakes fault its not eating. Sorry if that's harsh but in your original threads about this your opinion was "they where dud snakes and you didn't care if they died". Your words not mine.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top