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Boegey

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Hi all I live in canberra and just bought my first hatchling diamond python and was wondering whether I should have the heater on 24/7 or turn it off At nights and also what should I do when he is older should I turn it off then and give him less heat I just don't want have a chance of causing dps
thanks
 
for now I would use a heatmat and connect it to a thermostat. Keep the heat on 24-7 as its a hatchling. Just cover 1/3 of the bottom of the enclosure with the heatmat and should be sweet.
 
aside from reading the caresheet BEFORE you buy...,
i'd suggest to keep a hatchie on 24/7 heat (25-34) for the first year,
IMO diamonds are not a beginner snake, due to the risk of DPS and being more finicky (read expensive & tricky) with their husbandry than other morelia spilota...

once he is in his 2nd year you should prolly let the nighttime drop to no less than 15 C or thereabouts
is also thought to help prevent DPS so you should probably invest in a daylight lamp / "low wattage" mvb (shouldn't go onto a thermostat) to provide uv for your final enclosure (on a timer) and perhaps a heat cord/matt/high wattage bulb on a dimming thermostat to provide heat (be carefull to make sure that the mvb is adequate for the enclosure size and ventilation as they can put out a rather significant amount of heat, you don't want to "cook" your snake...
 
Would n you just use the MVB for heat too then in that case!?
 
I did read the care sheet but then did more research and got lots of mixed answers so just wanted another opinion and i got told by lots of people that diamond pythons are good beginner snakes
Alright so have a lamp purely for lighting and then a lamp for heat on a thermostat
 
Would n you just use the MVB for heat too then in that case!?
nope, can't hook it up to the thermostat, you use the mvb to provide "background" heating (so that it just reaches 35 on the hot end during summer, as they do not deal well with the constant on/ off/ on/ off a thermostat results in) and the heat matt for heat regulation (hence the thermostat).
 
I did read the care sheet but then did more research and got lots of mixed answers so just wanted another opinion and i got told by lots of people that diamond pythons are good beginner snakes
Alright so have a lamp purely for lighting and then a lamp for heat on a thermostat
That is good boegey, under these circumstances i have to apologize :), quite a few ppl don't read the caresheets and just ask, which is a bit annoying :).
i'd do it with 2 heat sources, as that should increase the life of your mvb (and hence decrease the running cost of the setup :), whilst allowing you to provide heat at night if for some reason your temps drop drastically overnight)
 
nope, can't hook it up to the thermostat, you use the mvb to provide "background" heating (so that it just reaches 35 on the hot end during summer, as they do not deal well with the constant on/ off/ on/ off a thermostat results in) and the heat matt for heat regulation (hence the thermostat).
I believe the MVB globes may need to cool down before they can come on again making on/off switching not practical. The mercury vapour globes that we use for street lighting need to cool before they can come back on anyway. Also 34 might be a bit warm for a diamond, not 100% on that for hatchlings though.
 
Alright thanks yeah that's okay I understand :) so what would you suggest just two globes or a heat mat and a globe for when they get older??
 
Alright thanks yeah that's okay I understand :) so what would you suggest just two globes or a heat mat and a globe for when they get older??
I only have a diamond cross coastal and I do not give it any UV light , just heat lights.
 
Hi, I'm on my second diamond the first one I did not give uv and he was healthy up to 7 when he got cancer, a very sad day!!!!! My new one is almost 4 and I have a uv globe on a timer up high with a low heat out put, and a second night heat globe lower over her hide box, I don't know if she is benefiting from the uv but it looks good so I'm definitely going to keep it up.......
 
I believe the MVB globes may need to cool down before they can come on again making on/off switching not practical. The mercury vapour globes that we use for street lighting need to cool before they can come back on anyway. Also 34 might be a bit warm for a diamond, not 100% on that for hatchlings though.

to my knowledge the cool end is the important part with diamonds, but yeah 34 may be a bit on the warm end, if you can maintain 25 on the cool end with a 34 basking site it isn't really an issue though as the snake can thermoregulate. I found 34 to be good temp for morelia hatchies, but i'm happy to alter my temps if anyone knows better :-D

i'd go for a heatmat + mvb as the heatmat/chord can run at night wo emitting light ;-), as previously stated, it also means you can recycle the hatchie heat mat/chord ;-)
 
to my knowledge the cool end is the important part with diamonds, but yeah 34 may be a bit on the warm end, if you can maintain 25 on the cool end with a 34 basking site it isn't really an issue though as the snake can thermoregulate. I found 34 to be good temp for morelia hatchies, but i'm happy to alter my temps if anyone knows better :-D

i'd go for a heatmat + mvb as the heatmat/chord can run at night wo emitting light ;-), as previously stated, it also means you can recycle the hatchie heat mat/chord ;-)
I thought that as well about the cool end and thought it would be ok with a hot spot at 34 but was corrected by keepers of diamond pythons, they told me that a diamond python will not know when to move out of the hot spot and it is this that can cause DPS.
 
My diamonds move out of the hot spot all the time. I don't think they have any less feeling than other snakes or a lower IQ for that matter.
 
"Diamonds can't be relied upon to move out of a basking spot of 32 degrees. This won't hurt the snake in small doses but over long periods of time can lead to DPS."

I take it this is the comment your talking about? Trust me, I have diamonds that are given a basking spot of 32 for 4-6hrs during winter and most of the time they`ll only use it for an hour or two and then go back in their cooler hide for the rest of the day. Some days they don`t even bother coming out. Diamonds are no different to any other snake, if they get too hot they`ll look for a cool place to hide. The trick to keeping them in captivity is too make sure they have access to that cool hide. Use a lower wattage, spot globe with the basking shelf no further than 20cm away, this way your only heating the basking area and not the whole enclosure.
 
I have diamonds, each in a 4x2 foot tank. I heat one end to approximately 32 for 6 hours a day, the rest of the time it's good old Illawarra winter. Being that Diamonds are from Newcastle, Sydney and the Illawarra, I'm thinking that Illawarra Winter is good for them.

It seems sensible to point out at this point that Diamond Pythons don't die in the wild just because the sun gets hot. (Have you ever pointed an infra-red heat gun at a rock that's been in the sun for a few hours?) My Diamonds DO move away from the heat. They also choose how much of their body sits in the heat, often spreading across the branches so mostly their head and upper body is warming up. That's how they use a temperature gradient. My rule of thumb for all pythons is:

1. The sun gets hot. Have a basking point that gets to 30-34 for atleast 4 hours a day.
2. The snake evolved in the wild. Look up the weather forecast for the area where it came from if you're not sure what temperature the "cold end" should get to. (The advantage over being in the wild is that you can skip the rainy days where the sun doesn't come out for a week and it's wet the whole time, cause that seems to be where respiratory infections come from).

This makes me think that all those people who say "don't let the cold end get below 22" for any python are a little over cautious. Bredli's are found near Alice Springs, yes? That means they are okay with the temperature dropping to 6 C at night, and a low humidity. Diamonds are from the illawarra, which means they'll survive at night with 10 C and a high humidity. Coastals and Darwin Carpets, and Childrenii's probably want it warmer at night, but again I doubt it'll kill them. In my opinion, it's those 4-8 hours where the sun is hot that help the snake survive at night, not the actual temperature at night. (Note: I don't actually know how cold Alice Springs and Darwin get. I referred to the Bureau of Meteorology briefly)

So:
I am more cautious of hatchlings, I tend to go for 28-31 at the hot end all day for the first year. I gave my young diamonds plenty of room to move away from the heat. After they start getting bigger, you can start introducing cold nights as well as the temperature gradient. Diamonds like humidity; when in doubt get a bigger water bowl. Don't let the enclosure's temperature get below zero, and keep an eye on them during heat-waves. If they're hanging out near the water bowl, they might want some relief from the heat. I believe diamond pythons are actually more resillient than people give them credit for, and that is where the problems arise. Also, if people live too far north, they need a plan to keep them cool. I don't worry about UV, but it can't hurt especially in the first 2 years when they're growing the fastest. UV Fluros from the pet shop are effective, but can be expensive. Pythons eat their prey whole, and seem to get a fair amount of calcium and vitamin D from their food. I think it's more important for other reptiles who don't get as much from their food.
 
I found this old thread pretty interesting from someone who has kept diamonds for a long time and has first hand experience with DPS. It makes sense what you both say about the snake being able to move away from the hot spot but this thread also states not to have a hot spot that high.

[h=1]My experiences with DPS[/h]
[h=1]My Experiences With DPS - Part 2[/h]
 
Yeah I`ve read these two threads before and I have a lot of respect for Nicks opinions on DPS and diamonds in general. What I try to do is basically follow his and others ideas on how diamonds should be kept. I think an important aspect of keeping diamonds is to provide a larger enclosure, therefore more chance of a greater gradient, with a compact basking spot just big enough for the snake to get under in a curled or semi curled position. Another good option is to separate the basking area from the rest of the enclosure with a divider. There was a thread a while back that described this method very well, I think a successful diamond breeder from the states uses it. I also like taller rather than longer enclosures so the top is warmer and the bottom hopefully stays cooler, particularly if standing on a concrete floor.
At the end of the day I don't think anyone has come with a blueprint for keeping diamonds, particularly indoors. I`m having a crack at it and hopefully in 10 years or so I can say I`ve done it.
But getting back to original statement that got me involved in this thread in the first place, to suggest that diamonds don`t know to move out of a basking spot that is too hot is just ridiculous. And I`m sure Nick would agree.
 
As I said mate I do not keep diamonds and the closest thing that I have is a diamond cross coastal. I keep a small basking spot at about 30 degrees run on a timer only so no night time heat. My first response was that a basking spot of 34 was too hot for a diamond and both threads that I have linked support that fact and that was what I was basing my first post on. I was not sure exactly why they did not like the warmer temperatures other than it may cause DPS so took Skeptics comment on face value that they do not move away from the heat because he had kept them for over ten years. That part I may be wrong on but I am pretty sure from that thread and the others that I am right on basking temperature. I am also think that what you say about the separated basking area and large enclosure would help greatly with DPS from what I have read and that is why I built my enclosure as I have. I have posted a picture below of it before it was finished and with the hides removed because they were blue plastic hides (functional but not pretty). I have some more vines and fake ivy in there now and both ends are separated from the centre part with a bit cut out for the snake to travel through. Only one end is heated so the other end has two partial separators keeping it quite a bit cooler.
 

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