Blind Mertens?
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he has a stack of rocks under the heat lamp, which he loves.
the uv light wouldn't be 4months old.
cris- the water isn't heated, it never has been, but i'm thinking of putting another heat lamp above it to creat more humidity to help his tail.
the uv light wouldn't be 4months old.
cris- the water isn't heated, it never has been, but i'm thinking of putting another heat lamp above it to creat more humidity to help his tail.
gillsy
Very Well-Known Member
The water should definately be heated. Especially where you are during winter.
What's the temp of the water.
What's the temp of the water.
I would setup a branch over hanging the water with a spotlight directed onto it so that it gets over 40C. Ceramics are pretty much useless at providing a basking spot. Halogen spot lights are best but the standard type are fine a 100 watt halogen or 150watt standard spotlight should work well. Dont use thermostats with goannas either, with proper cage setup there is no need.
J
junglepython2
Guest
It's the iris that constricts and dilates to the light not the retina. Plus photo-kerato-conjunctivitis has nothing at all to do with the ambient light levels and pupil contrictions, adding a brighter light won't help at all if that's the problem.
Ditch the UV light but chances are the problem has nothing to do with the UV lighting.
Ditch the UV light but chances are the problem has nothing to do with the UV lighting.
J
junglepython2
Guest
Explain how Kirby?? Photo-kerato-conjunctivitis affects the cornea and conjuncitva which are in front of the iris, no matter how much it contricts it wont reduce the level of UV hitting the anterior structures. All it does is reduce the amount hitting the retina which may reduce some damage but has nothing to do with photo-kerato-conjunctivitis and a red puffy eye.
in my experience, and many others, using brighter lights reduces the effects to nothing. perhaps it wasnt necessarily full blown PKC but simply sore eyes from ultra violet light, but tightning the iris reduces the amount entering the eye.. its common sense, its why our body does it.
JKretzs613
Well-Known Member
Hello
Hello,
I completely agree that you need to get rid of the ceramic heat emitter as that is really doing you no good at all.
Honestly, the Reptisun 10 tube bulb is not that intense of a light, especially when you compare it to the sun! It is a fraction of microwatts when compared.
I never saw whether or not you had a tube or a compact in your post. The compact has low wavelength UVB which is close to UVC. It has a photo therapy phosphor that allows UVC to penetrate the glass which is dangerous. The quality of UVB really is poor with them anyway. The wavelength of compacts are not really conducive to D3 synthesis either.
The tube light is excellent & you should not have any problems with that one at all, if it is no closer than 15 centimeters or 6 inches, & a bright white light is used in conjunction with it as well.
It is the pupil that is more associated with dilation & constriction because you can actually see if occur, & is the opening for the iris. The reaction of pupils to light is usually what is evaluated by vets or doctors to determine neurological function.
The iris controls the light levels, yes. However, the iris itself does not really constrict or dilate, it has muscles inside it called sphincter muscles that widen & narrow the pupil size.
The retina contains the rods & cones & is in the lining of the back of the eye. They contain photoreceptors which catch light rays & convert them into electrical impulses.
Reptiles have light sensors or detectors which are on the tops of their heads, or most have them. They see in a different spectrum than we do. If there is only a UVB tube light in the tank, it may look bright to us, but in reality to them, it looks like dusk to them.
However, since the light is so dim, it allows the pupils to remain dilated because not enough bright light is being registered in order for them to constrict their eyes in order to protect their eyes. The light sensor helps determine whether or not they remain under the light for any extended periods of time. Their eyes are basically set up for "night vision" with dimmer light.
So during this time, their eyes are much more vulnerable to eye damage from the UVB.
The cornea will become extremely irritated to them as well. It will feel kind of like snow blindness to them, & that is why their eyes are so sensitive to light.
So, right now, if your reptile still has trouble keeping his eyes open, I would not use a UVB light for a couple of weeks to let him eyes heal up some. Just use a bright white halogen light for the basking light. Once his eyes are looking better, reintroduce the UVB light. This time, place the halogen directly beside the UVB tube to ensure proper basking. He will be able to get warm while getting UVB's that he needs. This is how the sun works, heat & UVB all at once.
Here is a great website to look at regarding Photo Kerato Conjunctivits, regarding the bad UVB lighting.
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor.htm#intro
I hope he gets better soon.
Tracie
Hello,
I completely agree that you need to get rid of the ceramic heat emitter as that is really doing you no good at all.
Honestly, the Reptisun 10 tube bulb is not that intense of a light, especially when you compare it to the sun! It is a fraction of microwatts when compared.
I never saw whether or not you had a tube or a compact in your post. The compact has low wavelength UVB which is close to UVC. It has a photo therapy phosphor that allows UVC to penetrate the glass which is dangerous. The quality of UVB really is poor with them anyway. The wavelength of compacts are not really conducive to D3 synthesis either.
The tube light is excellent & you should not have any problems with that one at all, if it is no closer than 15 centimeters or 6 inches, & a bright white light is used in conjunction with it as well.
It is the pupil that is more associated with dilation & constriction because you can actually see if occur, & is the opening for the iris. The reaction of pupils to light is usually what is evaluated by vets or doctors to determine neurological function.
The iris controls the light levels, yes. However, the iris itself does not really constrict or dilate, it has muscles inside it called sphincter muscles that widen & narrow the pupil size.
The retina contains the rods & cones & is in the lining of the back of the eye. They contain photoreceptors which catch light rays & convert them into electrical impulses.
Reptiles have light sensors or detectors which are on the tops of their heads, or most have them. They see in a different spectrum than we do. If there is only a UVB tube light in the tank, it may look bright to us, but in reality to them, it looks like dusk to them.
However, since the light is so dim, it allows the pupils to remain dilated because not enough bright light is being registered in order for them to constrict their eyes in order to protect their eyes. The light sensor helps determine whether or not they remain under the light for any extended periods of time. Their eyes are basically set up for "night vision" with dimmer light.
So during this time, their eyes are much more vulnerable to eye damage from the UVB.
The cornea will become extremely irritated to them as well. It will feel kind of like snow blindness to them, & that is why their eyes are so sensitive to light.
So, right now, if your reptile still has trouble keeping his eyes open, I would not use a UVB light for a couple of weeks to let him eyes heal up some. Just use a bright white halogen light for the basking light. Once his eyes are looking better, reintroduce the UVB light. This time, place the halogen directly beside the UVB tube to ensure proper basking. He will be able to get warm while getting UVB's that he needs. This is how the sun works, heat & UVB all at once.
Here is a great website to look at regarding Photo Kerato Conjunctivits, regarding the bad UVB lighting.
http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor.htm#intro
I hope he gets better soon.
Tracie
thanks tracie
J
junglepython2
Guest
If it really is the cornea getting damaged from excessive UV, then the UV levels are far too high and they need to be reduced, adding a brighter light to shrink the pupil will not protect the cornea or conjunctiva in anyway.
the uv isn't far too high, the pupil isn't contracting enough. if the vivarium was brighter the pupal would contract to a suitable level and not allow so much uv in for it to be damaging. the monitor doesnt see the uv as being bright, in their eyes it is dull. so the pupil dilates to try and see properly and it allows too much uv in. if the tank was brighter they would contract. stopping the problem..
here are some pics of edward, he has been in this enclosure since April. He still needs a background, he is roughly 35cms long and the enclosure is 5 1/2ft long.
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