Blind Mertens?

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yeah, he has a black ceramic one now,. I didn't change anything last night due to a personal emergency. but i'm going to bunnings tonight to get him a dual baton light so i can have the uv & normal light in the one fitting.

Should he be bigger or smaller? this is including the tail.
 
Should he be bigger or smaller? this is including the tail.

ive never kept waters. it 'sounds' small to me.. you should forum search waters and pm some people who own them.

i'd also be careful he doesnt cut himself on the tank edge..
 
set him up on sand. make a stack for him with a basking site around 70c.
the rest of the tank should be around 28 - 30c.
use a normal flood light. take the water out.

he can get away with a bowl.
 
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set him up on sand. make a stack for him with a basking site around 70c.
the rest of the tank should be around 28 - 30c.
use a normal flood light. take the water out.

He's a water monitor, not an ackie...
 
He's a water monitor, not an ackie...
the big tank of water will be cooling the tank making it harder to heat.
hey Kirby show us some pics of your set up and your hatchling that you bred.
if you cant dont be a smart ***
 
the uv isn't far too high, the pupil isn't contracting enough. if the vivarium was brighter the pupal would contract to a suitable level and not allow so much uv in for it to be damaging. the monitor doesnt see the uv as being bright, in their eyes it is dull. so the pupil dilates to try and see properly and it allows too much uv in. if the tank was brighter they would contract. stopping the problem..

If the UV is high enough to damage posterior stuctures such as the retina and lens(which is the only thing a small pupil can help protect), then it it too high regardless of pupil size.

Plus if it is photo-kerato-conjunctivitis as you initially thought you still haven't explained how a brighter light and small pupil will resolve that problem as it will not reduce the amount of UV hitting the anterior structures.
 
Plus if it is photo-kerato-conjunctivitis as you initially thought you still haven't explained how a brighter light and small pupil will resolve that problem as it will not reduce the amount of UV hitting the anterior structures.

because as tracie explained the interior structures are damaged. not the lense.

Tristis, i wasnt being a smart ***... the tank is heated, or so the poster has mentioned. such a water source is accepted by other keepers. just because i havent kept or bred them, doesnt mean i cant post about an eye disorder relevant to most reptiles.. or ask why a water tank is 'so bad' t must be removed.
 
because as tracie explained the interior structures are damaged. not the lense.

The lens is an interior stucture:shock: And if the internal structures were damaged such as the lens and retina it would be a slow process and would not cause a sudden sore eye. Photo-kerato-conjunctivitis could but it wouldn't be solved by a bright light.
 
get rid of the big water tank for starters,you need something smaller an less hassel to
clean.you should give them fresh water at the least once a week,an i cant see that happening with
that tank your got now.
get a 150watt flood ligth from bunnings for the basking spot and a heat mat.
it should be 50 degrees plus at the hot end,an no cooler than 30 degrees at cool end.
just a day ligth fluro is fine you dont need uv,an have your ligths set on a timer,to come on 6am an go of at 6pm.this will give them a 12 hours day time period.
see that fixes the problem.
 
Kirby i give standed monitor set up advice and you say its not an ackie.
 
Hello

Hello,

No I disagree with the statement that if the UVB is high enough to cause eye damage then it is too high to begin with. Then how would you explain the reason why Mercury vapor bulbs do NOT hurt the eyes? They have 3-4 times the amount of UVB & we never see eye problems with them. They have enough bright light to cause the pupil to remain constricted.
When they are out in the sun, geez, that is too much UVB based on what you are saying so technically they can't handle the sun which we know that is not true. The sun is so bright that is causes immediate pupil constriction right off the bat.
Bottom line is that we need to provide bright light in their tanks. That will remedy any eye problem that is being caused by the UVB lights. Besides, they are not supposed to be any closer than 15 centimeters, anyway, for safety.


Tracie
 
ok,number 1,bugger the uv off altogether,they dont need uv lighting at all,yes i keep 5 mertens as well as 4 lacies,3 ridgies,3 gillens,2 storrs,1 flavirufus,and 2 gouldi,they dont need uv at all,diet and temps is what they need,way more important supplementing there diet,uv alone wont do squat,and even if it did,u think its the uv light hurting its eyes,so if so,bugger it off just for that reason.

number 2, dont bugger off its large water container,its a water monitor,they love spending half there time in there water,heat there water to between 26 and 28 degrees year round,they are from the tropics,used to warm water,heat there water,my suggestion would be go a larger tub,you need to provide an animal its needs,doesnt matter if it suirtds you or not,its the animals needs that need to be your number 1 priority

step 3,u said u havnt checked there temps,water wise or basking spot,hot end and cool end,how do you know its warm enough,and warm enough 24/7,i wouldnt use sand so much for mertens,as if kept correctly they are in and out of the water all day,so wet lizard comes out,picks up sand goes back in,ends in sand ending in the pond,i use sugar cane mulch for there substrate now,they can burrow in it,and more importantly is doesnt go in the pond much like sand.

now temps wise,these again are tropical animals,they like back ground temps of around 28 degrees,looking at your cage pic i see a light at one end of the enclosure,and u dont know what any of the temps are,your animal maybe sick,could suffer a respitory infection more so than uv tube affecting its eyes,thats what id be guessing is your monitors problem,has it had mouth problems lately,like open mouth breathing,not shutting its mouth,not much interest in food and lethargic,monitors if healthy are hyper,always on the move,even if they had sore eyes,they would still bolt around,oh just looked under my fast reply box here and noticed u had a thread in herp help,which was help,my mertens is wheezing,your problems are temp related not uv related

just trying to offer you some proper advice,from someone who actually keeps them and knows what there on about,pm me if want some tips aofie,but we really need to work on temps,basking spot temps and water temps urgently

THE PROBLEM ISNT UV RELATED AT ALL

need to measure the temps and heat the water,monitors dont need uv light anyways but thats not the issue,my belief is the mertens is suffering from a respitory infection,as aofie did another herp help issue recently which was
HELP MY MERTENS IS WHEEZING

closed eyes,wheezing,lethargy,classic symptoms of repitory infections in reptiles,uv lighting doesnt cause all that,lol,aofie how is the mertens going???????????

getting rid of the water size is like giving frill necks no where to climb,water needs to be heated,at least between 24 and 28 degrees26 or 27 being optimum,kirby tristis has made some excellent points,though reducing the water size wont help if the water is still cold,the cage will still be cold and so will the water which they rely on,being semi aquatic reptiles,they love to sleep in there water,they even cool down in it during the day,but if its to cold it lowers there body temp way to much,they are TROPICAL,there not water dragons or water skinks,but a tropical ranging reptile that live in riparian habitats,meaning they rely on water,and that water needs to be at a temperature that a tropical river,lagoon,billabong,mangrove area would be,which is not melbourne room temperature,would be like asking a barramundi to survive and thrive in the ocean around antartica,not gunna happen.

add it all up,its pretty simple,tristis is right on the money in regards to temps

just my 2 cents,from someone that keeps both nt and kimberley form merten,s monitors
 
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*richardsc* the temps are 35-38c in the hot end and 25-28c in the cool end (above the water). The weezing as stopped since i turned the heat up (i took him to a vet regarding that and the vet said not to worry about it) The uv has been off for about 2 days now1 & I havn't noticed any difference yet but he'll get a run around out of his enclosure tonight, so i'll check him out then.

Do you think that 35cms for a 1yr old is small?
 
JKretzs613;1215229[/B said:
]Hello,

No I disagree with the statement that if the UVB is high enough to cause eye damage then it is too high to begin with. Then how would you explain the reason why Mercury vapor bulbs do NOT hurt the eyes? They have 3-4 times the amount of UVB & we never see eye problems with them. They have enough bright light to cause the pupil to remain constricted.
When they are out in the sun, geez, that is too much UVB based on what you are saying so technically they can't handle the sun which we know that is not true. The sun is so bright that is causes immediate pupil constriction right off the bat.
Bottom line is that we need to provide bright light in their tanks. That will remedy any eye problem that is being caused by the UVB lights. Besides, they are not supposed to be any closer than 15 centimeters, anyway, for safety.
If the UV is high enough to cause posterior damage resulting in the eye closing then yes it is too high. However arguing the point is pointless as I said in my very first post UV light won't be the problem.

I only entered the thread to dispel the idea that adding a bright light source would solve all the problems as it clearly won't. And as Aoife has just said there hasn't been any improvement in the last two days with the UV removed.
 
*richardsc* the temps are 35-38c in the hot end and 25-28c in the cool end (above the water

Do you think that 35cms for a 1yr old is small?

hi Aoife
Your enclosure set up is fine but as Richard said your temps ARE NOT CORRECT.
Your water MUST be heated to at least 26 degrees (all the time) and your hot spot MUST be at least 50 degrees.
12hrs light 12hrs dark, from your past threads it seems you have had alot of problems with this monitor and I belive they are all due to incorrect temps.
35cms is relativley small for a yearling my hatchlings I hatched were around 45cm by that age. How much does he eat?
 
I only entered the thread to dispel the idea that adding a bright light source would solve all the problems as it clearly won't. And as Aoife has just said there hasn't been any improvement in the last two days with the UV removed.

and he hasent yet added any bright lights yet has he? so, again, your wrong.

richardsc, thanks for the posts. very informative.

one thing i would like to say is, heating the water to 26-28C should actually keep the ambient temp in the confined space of the vivarium warm as well. ever noticed in an aquarium shop that even through winter the ambient temp stays 26C all year round because, the tanks are heated to 26C..? i have, i work in an aquarium. the same thing happens in a wooden viv. assuming the basking spot is perfect, the animal will choose an apropriate temp.
 
and he hasent yet added any bright lights yet has he? so, again, your wrong.

richardsc, thanks for the posts. very informative.

one thing i would like to say is, heating the water to 26-28C should actually keep the ambient temp in the confined space of the vivarium warm as well. ever noticed in an aquarium shop that even through winter the ambient temp stays 26C all year round because, the tanks are heated to 26C..? i have, i work in an aquarium. the same thing happens in a wooden viv. assuming the basking spot is perfect, the animal will choose an apropriate temp.


Well unless a bright light is going to solve the temp issue and heat the water as well I don't think I am wrong. ;) And I don't think anything I've said in this thread has any incorrect info so I don't know where the again comes from.
 
ooops!!

Edward has always had the water tank in his enclosure with the water unheated, and he has never had problems before. It has only been since he's been in the new enclosure that he has been having problems.

So I have no idea what's going on!
 
Aoife - This is likely just that your old enclosure was setup with temperatures etc, fine tuned whilst the new one still needs those adjustments...

Here is my simple technique for Monitors in general, get rid of all the extra junk (UV etc) and make it warm - if he looks sluggish and not acting himself, make his hot spot warmer - repeat until he's happy :D
 
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