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I've found sometimes the little guys show more interest in a fuzzy than a pinky but that was with Morelia. Force feeding stresses the hell out of snakes and should only really be done if it's close to starving to death.
I believe some Bhp breeders go straight to force feeding since they can be a problem to start. But you are dead right in this case, once a snake is feeding it should be a last resort.
 
I believe some Bhp breeders go straight to force feeding since they can be a problem to start. But you are dead right in this case, once a snake is feeding it should be a last resort.

I think you're thinking asist feeding.
 
force feeding should be a last resort as it can cause a lot of stress, assist feeding is something a bit more appropriate as a second last resort. just hold onto his head softley so he can't move his head out of your grip but you aren't suffocating him or creating to much stress. just touch his nose or tap him around the face with the food, hopefully you will find a way to open his mouth and you just put the foods head in his/hers mouth. this is the tricky part; you need to be as gentle and carefull when letting go just very gently put his head down and remove your hand slowly. You need to do this so he won't let go... this may take you a few tries untill he doesn't let go but it's worth it. he will eventually eat...

some kids are tricky to deal with, best of luck!
Bohdi
 
So i am going to get a temp gun or new thermostat and recheck temps will do the egg yolk on a pinkie. If that doesnt work ill try on a fuzzie. Does this sound like a good plan of attack so to speak? He only has one hide which he does not use. Is a larger encloser with multiple hides a wise option?

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My little Stimmy went for at least 6 weeks without feeding once I got him. I put him in a quieter room, upped the temps a bit, left him alone for 4-5 days and finally had success by pinching the nose of the prey item to tear some skin, he went for it big time!!

If you have upsized his click clack recently, maybe try a smaller one, or, what I did with mine was to put half an egg carton lid in there, with his toilet roll inside it, and two sheets of kitchen paper - gave him options of where he wanted to go.

Hope this sorts itself out.
 
Kwaka- no hes in the same enclosure as i got him in.

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So i am going to get a temp gun or new thermostat and recheck temps will do the egg yolk on a pinkie. If that doesnt work ill try on a fuzzie. Does this sound like a good plan of attack so to speak? He only has one hide which he does not use. Is a larger encloser with multiple hides a wise option?

Sent from my LG-P690f using Tapatalk 2
I would not trust a thermostat to tell you the temperature at all. They work well to regulate a temperature but the temperature on the dial or electronic screen isn't always the temperature you are after at your hotspot. For example I set my digital thermostat to 36 degrees, this will heat a 6m heat cord that is weaved under two separate tiles and will heat two separate plastic boxes to 33 degrees at the hot end for both my hatchling BHP's.
 
What Bohdi said is asist feeding :) Force feeding is using long tweezers and literally shoving a food item a few inches down the snakes throat.
Oh ok so basically it is how far you put the food item in?
 
Andynic has a good point. Don't rely on thermostats (particularly cheaper ones) for your temps. Like his, I have to raise my thermostat a good 2 to 3 degrees above what I want in my click clack - I know this because I have a dual temp thermometer in many of my click clacks (one probe warm end, one probe cold end) and adjust my thermostat to get the temp I want where the snake actually is (in the tub) and can monitor both warm and cold end temps (overkill for a click clack....but handy).

I also have an infra-red gun that I use to cross check my probe thermo's. An additional means of monitoring temp where the snake is other than the thermostat probe itself is essential in my (limited) experience.

You may find that your snake is actually 2 or 3 degrees cooler than you think and this could well be enough to put the little tacker off its food.
 
Becca Marie, is there a reason that you haven't spoken to the breeder??
If they are decent, they would go through everything with you and see how you have it set up and guide you.
 
I would not trust a thermostat to tell you the temperature at all. They work well to regulate a temperature but the temperature on the dial or electronic screen isn't always the temperature you are after at your hotspot. For example I set my digital thermostat to 36 degrees, this will heat a 6m heat cord that is weaved under two separate tiles and will heat two separate plastic boxes to 33 degrees at the hot end for both my hatchling BHP's.

i agree, in my spotted enclosure I also have a heat cord wound under a tile, the thermostat is set at 36 which gives me a surface temp of 33-34 measured with a ir temp gun, in my MD and Jungle enclosure I have 2 thermometers, 1 in the hot end and 1 in the cool end
 
Fay - i didnt get him from a breeder i got him from a pet shop.

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Oh OK, can you speak to the pet shop then?
I have found with my kiddies that they all take it differently. They need to be able to tell you that.
Some like it left in overnight, some eat if they have been stirred up a bit etc
 
I will call the pet shop in the morning.

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