TrueBlue's Anti-Thermostat Stand

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then there's those that misinterpret your set up TrueBlue and make their snakes sick! Double edged sword mate!
 
how can it be misinterpreted.? its to simple.
Same princable as a reptile in the wild, if it gets to cool it seeks out a warm spot, if it gets to warm it seeks out a cool spot. Provide one of each and mums the word. Now thats not rocket science.
 
how can it be misinterpreted.? its to simple.
Same princable as a reptile in the wild, if it gets to cool it seeks out a warm spot, if it gets to warm it seeks out a cool spot. Provide one of each and mums the word. Now thats not rocket science.

But the problem is that there are some that as far as reptile keeping goes it may as well be rocket science. They only hear what they want to.
I am not calling your husbandry methods into question or boas! there are merits to both and both have a place in herpetology!
there is opportunity to misinterpret any set up method. There are those that would read between the lines here and all they will hear is * I don't need a thermostat * I can save a few $$ with this system and away they go.
I bet you have dealt with this type of person time and time again throughout your herping career! they only hear what they want to hear! Even if it's written down on a care sheet.
 
more than an opinion, ive seen it many times over the years, proofs in the pudding.

Blaming thermostats is specious reasoning TB. In actual fact what you have seen is the results in poor keeping. I believe there is research that will show that keeping a python consistently too hot can reduce their lifespan (unsure of specific research).

Essentially your case is that the thermostat is to blame for a python being kept too hot and not being provided a thermal gradient. In actual fact it is the entire keeping practice that is to blame, thermostats just make an easier target because you don't have to criticise someone directly.
 
you have to give your reptiles a USEABLE CHOICE of temps its that simple.
i live in sydney and am slowly changing to robs method of houseing because it works so well.
lets not forget how tuff reptles are a few hours of 4-5 degrees is nothing
 

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Boa and Rob there is no differance between your methord only rob uses a timer and boa is using a thermistat as a switch if it gets hot
Rob i dont think boa uses the thermistat to control the temp but just to switch the heat off if it gets to hot therefore his lights would not go off till say 34deg and then back on under that so i get the impression that the bulbs he is using alows the temps to hover just under that meaning his lights are on all the time just like yours.

i think the big arguement here is about people using 100w bulbs in a 2*2*2 where they rely on the thermistat to turn the heat off and on to regulate inclosure temp a constant temp i will add
 
Like when you (intentionally ?) said I keep my animals at a constant temperature when in fact the opposite is true and has been pointed out more than once. Read what you want to read ?
When you initially started telling us all that thermostats are the spawn of the devil and will shorten a reptiles life there was no mention as I recall of that only applying to 'box type enclosures'.
I'm not really sure how many times I can say I totally understand your system and have seen it working many times over the years.
Once again my point is don't try to frighten new keepers with talk of killing animals and shortening their life simply by using a thermostat.

boa boa boa, your "issue" is that you only seem to read what you want to read or understand what you want to.??.
For about the 501 time im talking about a box type set up, with wattage bulbs that WILL cook the snake if the thermo breaks,hell even low wattage bulbs in warm weather will do this.
This is by far the most common set up.
Ive never said a thermostat wont work with this method?, but its a complete waste of money and time using one cause its not needed.
My method is simple and non dangreous, unlike most thermo set ups.
And many species of reptiles that are housed in hot box type enclosures will suffer and not live as long, this is fact.

Almost all reptiles need metabloic rest from time to time, for good health and longlivity, and most thermostat set ups simply do not allow this.
 
Exactly, a thermostat will not and can not shorten the life of an otherwise healthy animal. Poor husbandry certainly can.
 
pretty much all my stuff has a heated area and an unheated area, created normally with a division, and they just move from side to side to warm up or cool down, simple, and no thermostat needed, and no chance of cooking a snake when the thermostat malfuntions.

:lol: If I was a snake in your collection Rob I'd curl up in the warm end 365 days a year and only go to the cool end to defecate :D
 
boa, i havnt said YOU keep your animals at a constant temp, the way you set them up does not apply to what i am talking about. But as you would know the most common way people keep a snake is in the box type thermo regulated enclosure which imo is bad, and has all the risks im talking about.
Any tank that needs the light to be turned off by a thermostat so that it dosnt cook the snakes imo is an accident waitting to happen when its so much easier, safer and imo healthier for the animals in most case to set them up with out that risk.
 
it seems to me that boa's method is a less "extremist" version of TB's, his thermostat would only kick in on rare occasions on really hot days. because of this i would assume that boa's method is safer because it is not relying on a timer to kick in at some arbitrary point to prevent the temps getting too high on a hot day.

Boa, (sorry if u have already said this) but where do u position your thermostat, in the cool r warm end?
 
I picked this thread up again this evening to learn more about Blue's method. I understand it now and it makes damn good sense. I am all for keeping things simple and even though I run the "hot box method" I have thought it flawed, Or better still ,flawed in summer. It works great in winter because the gradient is much steeper, but summer is not so steep. Thanks for the idea's Blue, i think it is the answer to what i have been trying to figure out.
 
Haven't read the whole thread, but I've often wanted to use an open top type method for my lizards with a spotlight to create a warm enough basking area but the heat can just leave rather than heat up the cool end. When I start to get more serious again I though some small troughs or half water tank type enclosures would be good for this plain. I'd like to trial your method Rob, it makes perfect sense to me and sounds like it would create a much larger gradient in fully enclosed enclosures, have you kept any lizard species using this method before or just snakes?
 
so what do you do Rob, get a little bored and think "its time to bait Boa again". I know, he is that predictable and he responds exactly the same way each time. Hey guys, wanna see Boa squeal. Its like Groundhog Day.
 
I agree, the method I use is practically foolproof. I use low wattage bulbs in the same way Rob does but I have the added security of a quality thermostat.
I position the probe in the hot end thus giving as much of a gradient as is possible.

it seems to me that boa's method is a less "extremist" version of TB's, his thermostat would only kick in on rare occasions on really hot days. because of this i would assume that boa's method is safer because it is not relying on a timer to kick in at some arbitrary point to prevent the temps getting too high on a hot day.

Boa, (sorry if u have already said this) but where do u position your thermostat, in the cool r warm end?
 
re TrueBlue

so what do you do Rob, get a little bored and think "its time to bait Boa again". I know, he is that predictable and he responds exactly the same way each time. Hey guys, wanna see Boa squeal. Its like Groundhog Day.
Loves fishing the old TB hey ! HaHa
 
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