TrueBlue's Anti-Thermostat Stand

[MMAnne]

I don't know much about breeding, but I know enough to contribute this little bit...

It is not natural to keep a snake in an enlcosure, no matter how big or small, so why all this hype on what is natural or not?

I don't see the problem of using a thermostat if you do not plan on breeding. I know my snake enjoys the heat he has access to, so why should I take that away unless I have to?

Many people have bred successfully using a thermo before. It is up to them whether they want to increase their chances by ditching the thermo and lowering their temps. It doesn't do any harm to the snake either way, as far as I know.

 

[Horsy]

I agree with MMAnne but will say that you CAN lower the temps with a thermo, at least my thermo. I can lower it right down to 1 degree or up to 40 degrees, depending on what I want.

 

[Jason]

scrap my last post! i put it in a new thread so it doesnt change the direction of this one.

the main issue with enclosures is the availabilty of a temperature gradient, i think the biggest issue is not the thermostats but people using the wrong heating which results in a 'hot box' not an enclosure with a good temp gradient.

 

[Miss B]

We've got a Microclimate B1 'magic-eye' thermostat (dimming type) with optional day/night cycle.

 

[SLACkra]

i think people are getting confused about what is bad about thermostats. eg say you have a box style enclosure with a thermostat in the middle controlling the heat source. overall the enclosure is going to have a crap heat gradient. also if the thermostat malfunctions you'll most likely end up with a cooked reptile. Also with the entire enclosure being heated the snake has no idea what time of year it is which could make breeding more difficult.

thermostats aren't the devil however they can be used say in a setup like robs on the hot side of the enclosure controlling the heat source keeping the hot side at the temp required. Even if it does malfunction the animal can still excape to the cold side. However as rob as shown its not really nessesary.

Andrew

 

[Retic]

Rob, is there a difference between my constant and your constant ? Mine have a more or less constant hot spot and a cooler area, isn't that what yours have ? If a hot spot is too hot they move away from it, isn't that what should happen ?

Boa yes but constant on your basking spots by the sounds of it.

 

[Mystery]

Rob, is there a difference between my constant and your constant ? Mine have a more or less constant hot spot and a cooler area, isn't that what yours have ? If a hot spot is too hot they move away from it, isn't that what should happen ?

That is what I have been thinking - if your enclosure is long enough, with or without a thermo, wouldn't you both be getting the same affect?

 

[krusty]

this is a great and verry interesting tread.it's got me thinking and that hurts.

 

[waruikazi]

this is a great and verry interesting tread.it's got me thinking and that hurts.

Lol i have a shocker of a head ache after that one

 

[jasontttt]

if you are using robs method of no thermos ,how do you cool the snakes for breeding?

 

[whiteyluvsrum]

i dont think any setup is better, as long as there is a cool and warm end thats all is required.

 

[ravensgait]

That's an interesting statement TrueBlue can you point the way to the research on them having shorter life spans, for me??

What's wrong with a Thermostat with the night drop feature??? never used a heat lamp for a snake...
Randy

 

[nightowl]

if you are using robs method of no thermos ,how do you cool the snakes for breeding?

That is the beauty of Rob's method....the enclosure's temps (at the cool end) are based on the ambient temps in the room because of the amount of ventilation (pegboard backing). So obviously in winter the room gets colder and so do the enclosures. As long as they have a warm end to bask in during the day they will still cool over winter without RI problems. Our house never gets too cold because we have the heater on, so temps don't get too cold in the enclosures. That is, just because we get 0 to -2 temps over night during winter, doesn't mean it gets that cold in the house!

Also, using a 25 watt bulb for heating doesn't allow the warm end to heat as much in winter as in summer....eg; my tank's warm end in summer hovered around the 32 deg mark and in winter it is reaching around 26.

Cheers
Shane

 

[TrueBlue]

boa, not really no, because the bulbs is on all the time and the temp around it changes with the day/night and seasonal changes, yet a dimming thermostat will keep that basking spot the same temp pretty much all the time. Very different.

 

[waruikazi]

Slightly off topic Rob but what are you (and every one else i suppose) going to do when you can only buy the fluro type of globe? I think we are only a year away from the incandescent globes being banned.

 

[TrueBlue]

I have a friend that works at a light/electrical shop, and ill just stock up and by a few grands worth of bulbs to last untill i die.

 

[waruikazi]

Lol i guess that will work

 

[Retic]

As has been stated more than once the snake just moves nearer to or further away from the heat source to attain their ideal temperature, that's what my snakes do and have always done.
The hot spot is constant but the area around it is obviously cooler, snakes are clever little critters

boa, not really no, because the bulbs is on all the time and the temp around it changes with the day/night and seasonal changes, yet a dimming thermostat will keep that basking spot the same temp pretty much all the time. Very different.

 

[dickyknee]

I have a friend that works at a light/electrical shop, and ill just stock up and by a few grands worth of bulbs to last untill i die.

If that fails Rob or you do run out , what would you be using ?? (or any one else who has an opinion on it )
I was just thinking about this the other day

 

[whatsup]

lol rob.i've been stocking up on light bulbs aswell.that old fella with grey hair at the shop comes in handy sometimes.